1998 V70 AWD Auto no crank

[SteveSarre]

Hi all,

I have had no prior starting problems with this car.

Long story short - yesterday I did various things under the bonnet and jetwashed the engine bay. Left the tailgate open for a long time.
Today, car will not start.

Actions to reproduce problem:
Insert and turn key in ignition to first position.
Dash lights come on.
When I turn the key to start there is a slight click (like a relay turning off, not like the solenoid failing to kick in). Engine does not crank at all. Solenoid does not make any noise.

Battery voltage was OK, but I substituted a known good battery. No change.

If I take a jumper wire and wire direct from the positive feed on the solenoid to the blade terminal beneath and behind the two positive terminals on the solenoid, the engine cranks fine. (I didn't try starting it, because by that time I had removed the fan and lots of other stuff). Cleaned up the main vehicle ground that the blue battery cable goes to.
Refitted everything that I had removed (fan, intercooler hose, fan wiring etc). No change.

Substituted a known good ignition switch. No change.

In main Fuse box I substituted known good J relay, yellow relay, and checked 8 large fuses and 5 small blade fuses. No change.

When I turn key to try to start, the slight click seems to be coming from two J relays under the top layer in the ordinary fuse box.

Main thing I think I will do next (which I should have done to start with), is test that power is going to the green cable when I try to start. (It is hot here).

What is the logic/circuit that controls the power to the green wire to the solenoid blade connector? Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve

[Luxobarge]

Sounds like the same symptoms you get if you try and start the engine when the gearbox is not in P or N. You might have soaked the PNP switch on top of the gearbox. Try cycling the gear selector through all gears a few times (or even a lot of times) and try again. HTH

[SteveSarre]

Hi Luxobarge,

OK thanks. Yes I had tried that (going through the gears a number of times), and just tried it again but no joy.

Will look at disconnecting the gear selector switch, maybe opening it up and having a look.

Also reading lots of stuff about ignition switch (different between 1998 and 1999) and PNP.

I have had some PNP copper repair pieces for a while, and have never fitted them, so maybe this is my chance!

Steve

[bob12]

Sorry to hear this Steve and trust you get it sorted soon.

Had a similar problem the day before yesterday when I took my '98 V70 CD Auto to my friendly car wash for a 'free' wash. I must have been on a high thinking of a free wash when I switched it off!!

Then I couldn't get the it to start to move on to the polish guys after a rather forcefull wash etc. Everything seemed to work OK but, not even a click out of the starter motor.

In my anticipation of a free clean on stopping I had left the car in drive!

After I gave up trying to start the car the wash guy got in and started it!!

As his English was not too good he demonstrated that the car had to be in N or P to start it. Something that had quite alluded me at the time of my panic when it wouldn't start. I hadn't even bothered look down to see where the selector was!

That's life!

Bob.

[SteveSarre]

Hi Bob,

You got off lightly!

I have stopped for the day.

I am mostly following along with Robert DIY here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCyu_nJFA3I

I also found this old forum thread
https://volvoforums.com/forum/1998-2...o-start-74741/
but I prefer to DIY than get Volvo to do it.

Yes I did manage to clear the auto dipstick tube.

Currently stuck because I cannot get the arm off the selector shaft that remains in the auto box. Will put some penetrant on, or my also try heat and then pry the arm off and tap the shaft down (protecting the threads with a nut). Have read a warning about not overtightening that shaft when I put things back together.

Am hoping to clean up the PnP unit in situ, avoiding having to dismantle the 3 part plug.

Dropped the spring clip that keeps the gear cable universal joint connected. Haven't been able to find it yet.

Steve

[SteveSarre]

PS
Approx prices for a new PnP are
£200 Volvo original
£80 aftermarket
£14 repair kit

[SnineT]

It does sound like you've got a box somewhere that's got water in it and causing a short, in this weather the answer might be to let her dry out naturally, I'd also check you haven't severed a wire under there somewhere as power washers are just that, if the fuse box under the hood can be opened so you can see the underside of the relays and fuses I'd check that's dry, I'd also check for wet carpets as you could've got water in through the scuttle and it's hit a consumer unit or inside fuse box.


I trust you've checked all the fuses as what you describe is what happens when the main engine fuse blows, it's also a symptom of a dead crankshaft sensor but as you've managed to spin the starter directly I wouldn't worry about that other than are the wires still 100% to and from it.

As Bob said it's also classic of the car not being able to read where the shifter is, I wouldn't strip it anymore until the heat has had the chance to dry things out, some contact cleaner might come in handy as well.

[ASt85]

NB
Check the thin cable 4mm spade connection that sits at the back of the solenoid between the heavy-duty earth and live cable connections. Heavy power washing can actually force the connector off.

If the connection is poor, you'll hear the various clicks as relays close because the ignition has turned the immobiliser/alarm etc off and put the ignition into the on state; you get a non-crank if the 12v signal isn't received at the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position because the solenoid hasn't closed the connection.

[SteveSarre]

Thanks SnineT and Ast85.

I will let you know what it was when I get to the bottom of this.

Steve

[SteveSarre]

Hi all,

OK car now cranks and starts.

Yesterday I got down nearly as far as disassembling the multiplug connector between the car loom and the PnP switch.

If you mess that up, I think it would be big problem.
Plus, thinking about letting the car dry out etc, this morning I put everything back together (wire brushing and greasing all bolts and threads). It would be pretty easy to take it apart again if that is what I want to do.

Car started straight up first time!

But I immediately tried again and the old problem (no crank) came back.

In the back of my mind I was thinking back to when I first checked the voltage that was being supplied to the green wire when I turned the key to crank. It wasn't zero. It was flickering in the mV range.

As always if I jump straight from the battery +ve to the blade connector on the solenoid, it cranks straight away.

So I looked at blue 15A fuse 10 (Ignition switch) in the driver's scuttle fuse box.
The fuse blades were quite corroded. I cleaned the blades up with a brass brush, and also replaced with a new fuse. Car starts every time now.

So I think that was the problem. But I'll keep a jumper wire in the car just in case. Other fuses had some corrosion so I cleaned all of them but I will consider buying a new complete set (any recommendations for cheap and good quality?). And I would put them in with contact grease.

HTH
Steve