|
200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
Information |
|
1988 240GL Auto to manual swapViews : 1029 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jul 30th, 2018, 14:50 | #9 | |
No I'm not the redhead
Last Online: Nov 25th, 2022 09:49
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Yorkshire Coast
|
Quote:
You can use the pedal box as a template to drill the holes from the inside- its difficult, but easier than changing the black plate- although you could do this too. Don't bother with the pipe- its easier to make another one out of a line of brake pipe. It took alot of bother to get the used pipe in, and after all that, it leaked around the connector. Change the rear crank seal while you're at it. ***** Use a GENUINE VOLVO seal- I've had trouble with scan tech seals, and you definately don't want to do this again. Here's my part list: rear crank seal pedal box clutch master and slave cylinder have pipe made up with correct fittings. hose from pipe to clutch gearbox (obviously) Change the oil when its on the floor- its easier than filling it under the car. prop shaft centre bearing bolts rear gearbox support beam and mount for manual gearbox clutch kit pilot bearing gearstick and gubbins- fit a new shift bushing kit while you're at it- cheap from Braydons wiring harness and relay if you're using an overdrive bridge wire for automatic neutral safety switch. clutch bolts! These do not come with the clutch kit to do: remove gearshift from inside car and bridge neutral start switch (so you don't forget later) remove prop shaft drain gearbox and remove filler tube remove pipes to radiator and block off rad holes. support gearbox remove torque converter bolts from front- this is annoying, as you have to turn the engine over to get the next one. A large socket on the flywheel helps. remove rear gearbox support put thin bit of wood between cylinder head and firewall to protect lower jack slightly under gearbox and undo two top gearbox bolts using lots of extensions and wobble bar undo other gearbox bolts- have a helper steady pull gearbox back ***make sure to keep torque converter on gearbox shaft or you'll get covered in oil. take a break and change clothes if the converter fell off and dumped oil down your sleeve. remove drive plate remove pilot bushing change rear oil seal- get help if you've never done this before. fit pilot bearing fit flywheel- make sure its in the appropriate position and bolts torqued properly fit clutch kit and make sure its centred fit new release bearing to gearbox fork- make sure fork is in the proper position fit manual gearbox into position and bolt to engine fit gearstick from above with new bushing in place connect up reverse light fit new gearbox mount and beam fit propshaft and centre bearing fit slave cylinder and hose OK now the big work is done, its time for the fiddly part! remove drivers seat- Trust me- you don't want to be fartin' around under the dash with the seat in place remove automatic brake pedal box fit manual brake pedal box WITHOUT pedals. only use a couple of bolts. drill holes for slave cylinder. take a break and a couple of co-codamols for the neck ache having been upside down under the dash. remove manual pedal box, fit pedals back in place with springs, and refit box fit master cylinder make up pipe from master cylinder to slave cylinder **** use new master and slave cylidners- I tried resealing and reusing the ones from the spares car, but they were knackered and I had to replace them with new ones anyway. bleed clutch. Then bleed it again, as you will still have air in it. Test out gear shift- you may need to adjust the reverse plate to get the 'lift' thing in the right place. Double check everything and then enjoy the extra speed and MPG! |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Antz For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|