Saving Kiloran's 940

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Never been a fan of conventional ramps because so much car maintenance is wheels, hubs, brakes, suspension bits, etc. Now I'm getting on a bit I'd appreciate the extra height but something which uses the sill lifting points seems a better option. Also those of us with tiny B200Fs have so much access from the top of the engine there are fewer reasons to have to get underneath.

I like the idea of adjustable ramps as you can drive on, lift to the desired height and do what you need to. If you want/need to remove wheels/tyres etc, take it to the maximum height, slide an axle stand underneath and then let the ramps down on the side(s) you want to remove the wheel on.

Sill lifting points were only ever intended for changing wheels at the roadside, there are proper lifting/support points on the chassis - i believe there's a pic in the handbook and certainly in the HBoF of where they are. Better to use those for lifting than the sills especially if the sills have gone rotten without you knowing/realising until you jack the car up. My line of thought is if the wheels are holding the car up then lifting the wheels (on the ramps) to lift the car shouldn't be a problem. Using axle stands on the nearest solid parts suitable for lifting/support after also seems logical, rather than jacking on what is essentially bodywork (sills).

The B200F is the same physical size externally as the B230 although the B230FK/T obviously have the turbo on which takes more space and any/all might have an AC compressor. That said access is fairly good on all 7/9xx models including the V6 and straight 6 engined cars. Possible except being the oil filter on V6s though........

[kiloran]

Oil filter placed in such a way you're guaranteed to touch the exhaust manifold, which will be hot because you've warmed the engine before draining the oil.

Dizzy position hard up against the firewall.

Other than that, it's luxurious for the home mechanic.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Oil filter placed in such a way you're guaranteed to touch the exhaust manifold, which will be hot because you've warmed the engine before draining the oil.

Dizzy position hard up against the firewall.

Other than that, it's luxurious for the home mechanic.

I always found the oil filter easier from underneath and les chanced of char-grilled paws/arms from the exhaust too.

As for the dizzy, it doesn't need touching often, only to occasionally inspect the cap inside and out and also the rotor arm. Once you get a 1/4" drive ratchet, 8mm scoket and short extension it becomes easier, especially with the bonnet raised vertical. Depending on the length of your legs and arms a small box/stool to stand on helps with reaching it.
Worst thing is #4 spark plug because they're all angled slightly backwards on the red block. Best to use a short length of 1/4"/6mm bore fuel hose on the spark plug nipple to start it in the thread - if it cross threads the hose will slip, if not it should screw almost all the way in before you need a spark plug socket and ratchet to do the final tighten. Another handy tip for the same is while pushing the plug in, turn the plug anti-clockwise (as if undoing it) until you feel the thread drop in to place which it will do once every turn and then turn it clockwise. This also helps to get it started in the right place. Try it with a nut and bolt in your hands, you'll see what i mean!

Other than that and the shim valve adjustment (never been a fan of that! ) they're pretty straightforward.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I always found the oil filter easier from underneath and les chanced of char-grilled paws/arms from the exhaust too.

As for the dizzy, it doesn't need touching often, only to occasionally inspect the cap inside and out and also the rotor arm. Once you get a 1/4" drive ratchet, 8mm scoket and short extension it becomes easier, especially with the bonnet raised vertical. Depending on the length of your legs and arms a small box/stool to stand on helps with reaching it.
Worst thing is #4 spark plug because they're all angled slightly backwards on the red block. Best to use a short length of 1/4"/6mm bore fuel hose on the spark plug nipple to start it in the thread - if it cross threads the hose will slip, if not it should screw almost all the way in before you need a spark plug socket and ratchet to do the final tighten. Another handy tip for the same is while pushing the plug in, turn the plug anti-clockwise (as if undoing it) until you feel the thread drop in to place which it will do once every turn and then turn it clockwise. This also helps to get it started in the right place. Try it with a nut and bolt in your hands, you'll see what i mean!

Other than that and the shim valve adjustment (never been a fan of that! ) they're pretty straightforward.

Always do oil filter from underneath. Going in headfirst makes it easier to undo with one hand as well

[kiloran]

The backwards thing to seat the thread is something I picked up from servicing bikes. Bottom brackets in particular are really easy to cross thread and are so big (68mm) with fine threads there's a big risk of trashing a frame. Also one side is reverse thread to stop precession from the cranks turning undoing it. Has to go in straight first time and turning backwards first is the way to ensure it does.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by kiloran

The backwards thing to seat the thread is something I picked up from servicing bikes. Bottom brackets in particular are really easy to cross thread and are so big (68mm) with fine threads there's a big risk of trashing a frame. Also one side is reverse thread to stop precession from the cranks turning undoing it. Has to go in straight first time and turning backwards first is the way to ensure it does.

Not many bottom brackets like that these days ! I still come unstuck with doing up pedals though

[kiloran]

Once bought a bike with pedals seized in cranks from someone not knowing about the reverse thread thing. Had a spare crankset sitting around so it turned out to be a cheap fix.

[stephend]

Picking up on the sub-topic about ramps, this month's Car Mechanics (December 2021) has a useful review of various lifting and support products (pp. 64-65). "Hamer Car Lift" is the name I couldn't remember: a drive on ramp raised by four farm jacks.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by stephend

Picking up on the sub-topic about ramps, this month's Car Mechanics (December 2021) has a useful review of various lifting and support products (pp. 64-65). "Hamer Car Lift" is the name I couldn't remember: a drive on ramp raised by four farm jacks.

http://www.hamercarlift.com/

That would be the one then?

[griston64]

I think a mid height scissor lift could work well

https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Ve...etre-Lift-with

I'm thinking of getting one of these