First post and question re: rear main oil seal

bigfatal · May 15th, 2011, 21:51

Hello everyone! It's good to be on this forum. I hope to learn a lot from you. For my first question, I'd like to know if anyone has ever had the main rear oil seal replaced on their 200 series.

My daughter's 1993 Classic with 190,000 miles just developed this problem. Is there a repair that doesn't require the transmission to be dropped completely?

I'd appreciate any input from anyone who has experienced this.

Clan · May 15th, 2011, 21:54

it realy is such an easy job to remove the gearbox and flywheel compared to anything designed later than about 1992 with front wheel drive , you are lucky ...

Clifford Pope · May 16th, 2011, 08:13

Welcome!
Before jumping to the conclusion that the seal needs replacing, check that the crankcase is not building up pressure because of blocked ventilation pipework.
These cars need regular maintenance of the flame trap, breather pipework, oil separation box, idle air valve.

ALLOA · May 16th, 2011, 09:04

Clifford is spot on! Run the engine and remove the oil cap. If there is any pressure behind it you will need to clean the breathers. Revert back with the model that you have and somebody will point you in the right direction.

Best of luck

Scott

tannachyallen · May 16th, 2011, 16:47

Did I read somewhere (on here) that the flame trap innards can be removed and discarded as Volvo started doing this as a later part of the service routine...............or was I dreaming that?

Dave A.

Paul240480 · May 16th, 2011, 18:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by tannachyallen

Did I read somewhere (on here) that the flame trap innards can be removed and discarded as Volvo started doing this as a later part of the service routine...............or was I dreaming that?

Dave A.

no you didn't dream it.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121331

Mike_Brace · May 16th, 2011, 20:18

I have successfully used Forté seal conditioner additive to my oil for minor leaks from seals.

MTerry · May 16th, 2011, 21:49

If you are getting oil seepage around the fill cap you definitely need to change the flame trap. The problem may go away on its own after that. Otherwise, the transmission has to come out. There is no way to get to the rear seal with the flywheel in the way.

bigfatal · May 16th, 2011, 22:07

Thank you, everyone! I certainly will look into the flame trap (thanks for the provided links, too).

Hopefully, it will all settle out and I won't have to go through dropping the transmission. I realize that it's probably a lot simpler than working on a FWD, but since I turned 60, work of that sort really has lost its appeal! ; )

I will post back after checking things out.

Clifford Pope · May 17th, 2011, 08:32

I have never been convinced that significant oil seal failure is ever really to blame for oil leakage. The crankshaft is well above sump oil level, so there would surely only ever be a tendency for oil to leak past the seal if the crankcase became pressurised?
In fact, the opposite is the case as long as the ventilation system is clean and operating properly, because crankcase air is constantly being drawn out via the inlet manifold. If there is negative pressure in the crankcase then how can a seal leak?

I recall older cars that didn't have crankshaft seals at all, just a close tollerance and a scroll on the output end of the crankshaft which tended to wind oil back into the crankcase. You centralised the housing using a feeler gauge.

May 15th, 2011, 21:51	#1
bigfatal New Member Last Online: Jun 28th, 2011 04:31 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cincinnati	First post and question re: rear main oil seal Hello everyone! It's good to be on this forum. I hope to learn a lot from you. For my first question, I'd like to know if anyone has ever had the main rear oil seal replaced on their 200 series. My daughter's 1993 Classic with 190,000 miles just developed this problem. Is there a repair that doesn't require the transmission to be dropped completely? I'd appreciate any input from anyone who has experienced this.

May 15th, 2011, 21:54	#2
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Today 22:45 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	it realy is such an easy job to remove the gearbox and flywheel compared to anything designed later than about 1992 with front wheel drive , you are lucky ... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

May 16th, 2011, 16:47	#5
tannachyallen 240SE Last Online: Mar 4th, 2019 20:44 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Strath Brora	Did I read somewhere (on here) that the flame trap innards can be removed and discarded as Volvo started doing this as a later part of the service routine...............or was I dreaming that? Dave A. __________________ 240 SE Auto 1991

May 16th, 2011, 20:18	#7
Mike_Brace Former contributor Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2022 07:54 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rhosgoch, Anglesey	I have successfully used Forté seal conditioner additive to my oil for minor leaks from seals. __________________ A Volvo is for life not just for Christmas!

May 16th, 2011, 21:49	#8
MTerry Bored Member Last Online: Nov 23rd, 2020 19:46 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore, Maryland, USA	If you are getting oil seepage around the fill cap you definitely need to change the flame trap. The problem may go away on its own after that. Otherwise, the transmission has to come out. There is no way to get to the rear seal with the flywheel in the way. __________________ Elphie - '98 V70 AWD, also Polar White Sophie - '09 XC90 V8, Shadow Blue Gloria - '93 244 in Ruby Red Metallic Sandy Blu - '07 C70, Celestial Blue

May 16th, 2011, 08:13	#3
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Today 16:29 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	Welcome! Before jumping to the conclusion that the seal needs replacing, check that the crankcase is not building up pressure because of blocked ventilation pipework. These cars need regular maintenance of the flame trap, breather pipework, oil separation box, idle air valve.

May 16th, 2011, 09:04	#4
ALLOA Master Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 16:21 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: ALLOA	Clifford is spot on! Run the engine and remove the oil cap. If there is any pressure behind it you will need to clean the breathers. Revert back with the model that you have and somebody will point you in the right direction. Best of luck Scott

May 16th, 2011, 22:07	#9
bigfatal New Member Last Online: Jun 28th, 2011 04:31 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cincinnati	Thank you, everyone! I certainly will look into the flame trap (thanks for the provided links, too). Hopefully, it will all settle out and I won't have to go through dropping the transmission. I realize that it's probably a lot simpler than working on a FWD, but since I turned 60, work of that sort really has lost its appeal! ; ) I will post back after checking things out.

May 17th, 2011, 08:32	#10
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Today 16:29 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	I have never been convinced that significant oil seal failure is ever really to blame for oil leakage. The crankshaft is well above sump oil level, so there would surely only ever be a tendency for oil to leak past the seal if the crankcase became pressurised? In fact, the opposite is the case as long as the ventilation system is clean and operating properly, because crankcase air is constantly being drawn out via the inlet manifold. If there is negative pressure in the crankcase then how can a seal leak? I recall older cars that didn't have crankshaft seals at all, just a close tollerance and a scroll on the output end of the crankshaft which tended to wind oil back into the crankcase. You centralised the housing using a feeler gauge.

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