1800: 1972 pv1800es

[lorenzo skerl]

Hi. Im searching for service manual of a 73 p1800es. Thanks

[Othen]

Originally Posted by lorenzo skerl

Hi. Im searching for service manual of a 73 p1800es. Thanks

This is a link to a cornucopia of service information, you should be able to find what you need:

https://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden...in_page_en.php

[Othen]

Regular readers may recall today was collection day for my friend's P1800ES. Let's call my friend Janet (although that is not her name she may appreciate the pun if she ever reads this). The three of us (including Bob) set off for Stoke - and the first thing I would say is the P1800 was much better than I had expected, in fact it is a mighty fine looking motor car (thank you to Janet for allowing me to post some pictures and words):



... everything seems very sound underneath and it is very well decorated indeed. The car came with a bit of history with MoT certificates going back to the 1990s and lots of receipts for parts during the PO's tenure (since 2017)

The trip home was about 80 miles: some dual carriageway (A50), a bit urban (around Loughborough) and rural Leicestershire/Rutland and Northamptonshire. It made it back in good order:



That was a good test for the car - it exposed some issues but on the whole the car drove, steered and stopped very well for a 50 year old. The car kept up with traffic well and was easily able to cruise at 60-70 MPH, the brakes, steering, gearbox (including overdrive) clutch and motor all work well. The einspritzen worked fine, although there might be a bit of tuning to get the best out of it. The motor car did have a few issues:

- The speedometer doesn't work, nor the odometer or trip meter. I noticed about 100 yards into the journey and way grateful to Messrs Google for providing a good speedo with the Maps app. I rather suspect it is a broken cable - I'll have a look tomorrow - I'm guessing it is attached to the gearbox like on the RB?

- The exhaust is banging against the body at the back. I put the motor car up on some ramps and it looks like the back box just isn't fitted properly:



... this part looks like it should fit about 2" lower and maybe have another hanger:



.. if anyone had a photo of how this bend was supposed to be routed and supported that would be really helpful.

Whilst under the car I had a quick look around and everything looked remarkably good for a 50 year old:



... there was lots of evidence of new parts:



... suspension (new both ends):



... and brake calipers:

.

The engine bay seemed largely untouched:



... but that brings us on to another issue. After about an hour sitting on my newly re-sealed drive it became obvious Delores Rocket had an oil leak. The PO had told me he suspected a leak at the rocker box cover and even provided a new cork gasket. I suppose that is still the prime suspect - for tonight I've put a drip tray under the car to work out the location and severity of the leak. I suspect I'll just change the gasket tomorrow and see if it dries things up - otherwise some investigation will be required.

Inside the car is fairly tidy:



... most things work, but not the speedometer, fuel gauge or oil temperature gauge.

Most of the controls work, but not the headlamps. I can hear the relay clicking, but there is no main or dip beam. I'll have investigate to see what is wrong.

The rest of the dashboard is tidy, including the radio delete panel. I think (but it is up to Janet of course) that it would be a waste to fit a radio now - it has taken 50 years to look this cool. A discrete Bluetooth speaker would be better and would give phone, SATNAV, digital radio and music all via one's cell phone... just my view:



Also inside the cabin the window winders keep falling off because the little circlips are missing:



... if anyone knows where I can get some please let me know (in the meantime I'll manufacture something) and the driver's side window winder stops about an inch from the top of its travel (it sounds like the teeth on the winder gear are worn away).

So there we are: a satisfying day. Delores Rocket made it back in one piece and is in much better order than we had expected. Any advice on the exhaust fitting, speedometer, fuel gauge, oil temperature gauge, headlamps, window winder mechanism, window winder handle and oil leak would be welcomed.

Oh, and Bob had a nice day out as well :-)

[john.wigley]

That is impressive, Alan; your friend has both excellent taste and has also made a very good buy. It looks at least the equal to, and possibly better than, a similar example coincidentally tested in this week's CCW. That one is a white car a couple of years younger on offer at £18,650.

Glad the trip went well. If I'd known you were passing so close by you might have broken your journey for a (socially distanced) brew!

Regards, John.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by john.wigley

That is impressive, Alan; your friend has both excellent taste and has also made a very good buy. It looks at least the equal to, and possibly better than, a similar example coincidentally tested in this week's CCW. That one is a white car a couple of years younger on offer at £18,650.

Glad the trip went well. If I'd known you were passing so close by you might have broken your journey for a (socially distanced) brew!

Regards, John.

Thank you John,

I tend to agree, I think Janet got a really good deal and if she had not bought the motor car today I would have.

There are a few issues to resolve. The poorly fitted exhaust is really annoying, I don't like oil leaks, the speedometer and headlamps (at least) need fixing smartly. The rest can be done as and when.

All in all a good day :-)

[142 Guy]

It is good to hear that everything worked out. The car looks nice.

In response to some of your questions:

The speedometer drive is off the tail end of the overdrive unit. If the drive cable fails, it is commonly; but not always accompanied by some noise (unless it fractures close to the OD drive end). Fairly easy to check by removing the cable from the OD end and twisting the cable by hand - you should be able to tell if its broken. The drive gear on the end of the speedo drive (at the back of the OD) has been known to fail. I think it is fairly easy to remove the drive to check the gear. I have only done this with the M41 out for service and it was dry at the time. I expect that if you remove the speedo drive you will end up draining the M41 and OD (common oil supply). Perhaps a good time to do a flush on the M41 and OD.

I think the clip you are looking for is

https://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/art...ndle-ees140164

If you do a Google search using the terms 'Volvo 687299' you may be able to find a supplier that is in GB. On the 1800 some times there is a flat cup like device that fits over he winder shaft and around the Omega clip. 140s have the cup. Some 1800s have the cup and some don't. I don't know whether that was a production change or Sven on the assembly line suffering from a hangover every Monday morning or just a lot of people losing the cup during maintenance or not remembering how it went on so just leaving it off.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

It is good to hear that everything worked out. The car looks nice.

In response to some of your questions:

The speedometer drive is off the tail end of the overdrive unit. If the drive cable fails, it is commonly; but not always accompanied by some noise (unless it fractures close to the OD drive end). Fairly easy to check by removing the cable from the OD end and twisting the cable by hand - you should be able to tell if its broken. The drive gear on the end of the speedo drive (at the back of the OD) has been known to fail. I think it is fairly easy to remove the drive to check the gear. I have only done this with the M41 out for service and it was dry at the time. I expect that if you remove the speedo drive you will end up draining the M41 and OD (common oil supply). Perhaps a good time to do a flush on the M41 and OD.

I think the clip you are looking for is

https://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/art...ndle-ees140164

If you do a Google search using the terms 'Volvo 687299' you may be able to find a supplier that is in GB. On the 1800 some times there is a flat cup like device that fits over he winder shaft and around the Omega clip. 140s have the cup. Some 1800s have the cup and some don't. I don't know whether that was a production change or Sven on the assembly line suffering from a hangover every Monday morning or just a lot of people losing the cup during maintenance or not remembering how it went on so just leaving it off.

Wonderful, many thanks.
Alan

[Dibble]

Originally Posted by Othen

Thank you John,

I tend to agree, I think Janet got a really good deal and if she had not bought the motor car today I would have.

There are a few issues to resolve. The poorly fitted exhaust is really annoying, I don't like oil leaks, the speedometer and headlamps (at least) need fixing smartly. The rest can be done as and when.

All in all a good day :-)

If the price is as was suggested earlier then I think Janet got a very good deal. Hopefully she will make good use of the car, they are not meant to sit in garages looking pretty. And she obviously has a good friend with lots of good knowledge. Enjoy!RE the petrol additive, I have an Amazon and use the additive all the time. Now 11 years she has been back on the road since restoration and no problems with the engine.

[Laird Scooby]

Very nice Alan!

The Omega clips have already been linked to, easiest place to get them is from the local Volvo dealer :

https://www.gcp.se/en/?s=687299

About £2.80 each give or take after conversion from SEK to GBP.

Headlights - check and clean the fuses as i explained how to in Chris 152s thread (1/4" drill bit and emery cloth), also check to see if there is power reaching the headlamps. They may still be simple sealed beam units, in which case there are many 7" headlight upgrade units with proper LED bulbs available to fit them or you can go for halogen H4 bulbs but may have to uprate the wiring.

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

V
They may still be simple sealed beam units, in which case there are many 7" headlight upgrade units with proper LED bulbs available to fit them or you can go for halogen H4 bulbs but may have to uprate the wiring.

Indeed, if you are going to switch to H4 bulbs the installation of auxiliary fused relays to supply the headlights directly from the main vehicle bus bar is a worthwhile improvement. First off, it reduces the current flow through the headlight switch and the latching hi/lo relay which extends the life of those components. The second is that it reduces the voltage drop to the headlights significantly. My 142E runs with an alternator voltage typically around 14 volts; but, with the original headlight wiring the voltage at the H4 filaments was about 12.5 volts, less with the interior fan running. That was an 11% drop through the vehicle wiring. Light output from an incandescent bulb varies as a function of about V^^3.4 (depending on your technical reference and the bulb type). An 11% drop in voltage makes a huge difference in light output.