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"Reduced Engine Performance" post Throttle Body cleaning

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Old Aug 1st, 2014, 03:27   #11
bcarter99
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NOTE:

Re-looked over the shops analysis and it said it had a completely clogged PCV. Did some more research, sounds like this could be the issue.

Even checked the dip stick while running, it was letting out smoke. And put a rubber glove over the oil cap while running and it inflated. All signs pointing to a clogged PCV.

Is there a HOW TO replace the PCV system?

Is there a way to tell if the "L-shaped crankcase ventilation hose" is clogged? Cause that piece alone seems to cost about $180

Also are there any other ideas of what could be causing the smoking?

I wouldn't mind spending $350 for the kit and doing it if thats all it takes. But if the piston rings are shot then forget it.
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Last edited by bcarter99; Aug 1st, 2014 at 05:07.
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Old Aug 1st, 2014, 06:23   #12
martinrpeachey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcarter99 View Post
NOTE:

Re-looked over the shops analysis and it said it had a completely clogged PCV. Did some more research, sounds like this could be the issue.

Even checked the dip stick while running, it was letting out smoke. And put a rubber glove over the oil cap while running and it inflated. All signs pointing to a clogged PCV.

Is there a HOW TO replace the PCV system?

Is there a way to tell if the "L-shaped crankcase ventilation hose" is clogged? Cause that piece alone seems to cost about $180

Also are there any other ideas of what could be causing the smoking?

I wouldn't mind spending $350 for the kit and doing it if thats all it takes. But if the piston rings are shot then forget it.
Regardless of weather or not it cures your current problem, sorting the PCV is a must. Sorting a blown crank seal is an expensive problem that's easily avoided.
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Old Aug 1st, 2014, 11:10   #13
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Have a compression test done, then you'll know what state the rings are in.
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Old Aug 1st, 2014, 21:32   #14
bcarter99
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Rings are good. Turns out it's a bad turbo. They disconnected it and 95% of the smoke stopped. They said it was leaking and burning oil. My guess is the previous owner used ****ty oil and ****ed it up.

So it needs the PCV and Turbo.

Couple questions:

#1 It looks like turbos run about $500 for a remanufactured, $1000 for a new OEM, and about $200-300 for a rebuild kit, any ideas on which one to get/avoid?

#2 Which PCV kit should I use? I'd like to save money but I also want to make sure I have EVERYTHING I need the first time.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4991/...rbo-5-cylinder
or
http://store.voluparts.com/04-09-vol...turbo-pcv-kit/

Thanks
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Old Aug 2nd, 2014, 00:55   #15
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Make sure the seal on the throttle body is sealing properly. Some rtv for lambda sensors could be useful.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 09:51   #16
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Don't cop out on replacing the 'L' tube and use the right oil fully synthetic once everything is clean. It is dyno oil, short runs and believing you can leave oil changes to 7.5k (most of us do 4-5k) or more that plugs the system.
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