240 General: - front bumper trim - struggle

Clifford Pope · Jul 21st, 2015, 15:54

I am struggling without success to refit the trim. The trim is in good condition, unbent, and I am using new clips.

I cannot get the trim to stay in place. It comes unclipped as fast as I click a new section into place. Sometimes I think I have succeeded but then the middle comes unclipped again. Several of the new clips have broken.

Has anyone any tips?
Should I assemble the three sections and then try and clip it all into place in one go?
Should I start at one end and work along?
How do I avoid getting tangled up with the headlamp wiper spindles - should I remove the motors?
How do I persuade both the plastic and metal layers to go in a clip - should I take the trim apart and fit the plastc bit first, then the chrome?

Mark1Stu · Jul 21st, 2015, 16:33

I definitely wouldn't separate the individual elements that make up each trim piece.

I found it straightforward reattaching the 3 trim pieces at the front with the bumper loose / limp. Got all the trim on firmly, then slide the bumper back over the edge of the trim and upwards to close any gap. Some bits of trim moved upwards but not enough to detach through this process. Once the bumper was firm, I pushed down on the trim to fully secure it - then fully tightened the bumper.

Hope this helps / makes sense.

Good luck.

Stuart

Clifford Pope · Jul 21st, 2015, 17:49

It never occured to me to remove the bumper. Do you mean the real metal bit, or the plastic sheath covering the bumper?
That would mean removing the skirt and air-dam as well in order to get at the bumper bolts? It sounds a bit extreme just to replace a fiddly bit of trim.

Mark1Stu · Jul 21st, 2015, 19:34

The car I was working on was a 1987 240. Not suggesting take the bumper off, just loosen the bolts so the bumper settles a bit lower and you've got a bit of wriggle room.

I had to swap my bumper (outer cover attached to the inner strengthening bar and the two shock absorbing tubes) anyway, but all I can offer Clifford is reinstating the trim pieces was relatively easy that way for me.

Clifford Pope · Jul 23rd, 2015, 08:06

I've had a go at following your suggestion. I'm not sure which bit of the bumper you mean loosening - the four bolts holding the bumper to the flanges on the end of the telescopic buffers, or the big bolt holding the shock absorber to the chassis?
I've had a go at each. The 4 nuts behind the bumper itself really need the skirt removing first for access (nuts and bolts rusted solid). I had a go trying a socket and a ring spanner, but one of the nuts has rounded. So to get any further with that means dismantling the whole plastic bumper cover and using an angle grinder to cut the bolts off.
The big bolt on the chassis rail is rusted tight and the hexagonal head is crumbling, so that's a major problem too.

With further attempts trying to fit the trim I've succeeded in getting one side piece in place. But I can't slide the centre piece into engagement without unclipping the end again.
The two basic problems seem to be a) the metal and the plastic edges are reluctant to stay together. I get the metal in but the plastic bit sticks up. Or b) The force to get both in at once breaks the clip.
Then when I do get a section engaged it pops out again at the slightest movement, eg when I move along to do the next clip.

tannachyallen · Jul 23rd, 2015, 10:03

I've always disliked that trim and have removed it from my current 240 and filled the holes with rivets (a look not to everyone's taste, I know). It just takes a slight nudge of the front bumper to dislodge the dam stuff; the trim on the back just traps water and encourages rust to my mind.

Am I right in thinking earlier models had a single piece of rubber that filled the gap between body and bumper?

Dave A.

Clifford Pope · Jul 23rd, 2015, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by tannachyallen

Am I right in thinking earlier models had a single piece of rubber that filled the gap between body and bumper?

Dave A.

Didn't the earier ones with the cowcatchers have large chunky rubber mouldings rivetted onto the face of the bumper, but no infilling between the bumper and the bodywork?

I've given up trying to make the clips work. I've drilled 5 holes at intervals in the centre trim and screwed it to the body with round-head chrome self-tappers.

Derek UK · Jul 25th, 2015, 18:07

A post on Brickboard suggested the use of the type of bolts shown. The head slots into the back of the trim. Either adjust the size of the existing clip holes if needed or drill new one adjacent to them so that they can be used with the proper clips later. With the price of the clips being as high as they are it makes a cheap fix. Poster said it works well. Access to the nuts is also OK I think. I haven't tried it. I have some new clips so might try the drop bumper method. My trims not as secure as they could be and that's how they get lost.

Jul 21st, 2015, 15:54	#1
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: May 9th, 2024 08:24 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	front bumper trim - struggle I am struggling without success to refit the trim. The trim is in good condition, unbent, and I am using new clips. I cannot get the trim to stay in place. It comes unclipped as fast as I click a new section into place. Sometimes I think I have succeeded but then the middle comes unclipped again. Several of the new clips have broken. Has anyone any tips? Should I assemble the three sections and then try and clip it all into place in one go? Should I start at one end and work along? How do I avoid getting tangled up with the headlamp wiper spindles - should I remove the motors? How do I persuade both the plastic and metal layers to go in a clip - should I take the trim apart and fit the plastc bit first, then the chrome?

Jul 23rd, 2015, 10:03	#6
tannachyallen 240SE Last Online: Mar 4th, 2019 20:44 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Strath Brora	I've always disliked that trim and have removed it from my current 240 and filled the holes with rivets (a look not to everyone's taste, I know). It just takes a slight nudge of the front bumper to dislodge the dam stuff; the trim on the back just traps water and encourages rust to my mind. Am I right in thinking earlier models had a single piece of rubber that filled the gap between body and bumper? Dave A. __________________ 240 SE Auto 1991

Jul 21st, 2015, 16:33	#2
Mark1Stu Senior Member Last Online: Apr 21st, 2024 06:42 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bristol	I definitely wouldn't separate the individual elements that make up each trim piece. I found it straightforward reattaching the 3 trim pieces at the front with the bumper loose / limp. Got all the trim on firmly, then slide the bumper back over the edge of the trim and upwards to close any gap. Some bits of trim moved upwards but not enough to detach through this process. Once the bumper was firm, I pushed down on the trim to fully secure it - then fully tightened the bumper. Hope this helps / makes sense. Good luck. Stuart

Jul 21st, 2015, 17:49	#3
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: May 9th, 2024 08:24 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	It never occured to me to remove the bumper. Do you mean the real metal bit, or the plastic sheath covering the bumper? That would mean removing the skirt and air-dam as well in order to get at the bumper bolts? It sounds a bit extreme just to replace a fiddly bit of trim.

Jul 21st, 2015, 19:34	#4
Mark1Stu Senior Member Last Online: Apr 21st, 2024 06:42 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bristol	The car I was working on was a 1987 240. Not suggesting take the bumper off, just loosen the bolts so the bumper settles a bit lower and you've got a bit of wriggle room. I had to swap my bumper (outer cover attached to the inner strengthening bar and the two shock absorbing tubes) anyway, but all I can offer Clifford is reinstating the trim pieces was relatively easy that way for me.

Jul 23rd, 2015, 08:06	#5
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: May 9th, 2024 08:24 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	I've had a go at following your suggestion. I'm not sure which bit of the bumper you mean loosening - the four bolts holding the bumper to the flanges on the end of the telescopic buffers, or the big bolt holding the shock absorber to the chassis? I've had a go at each. The 4 nuts behind the bumper itself really need the skirt removing first for access (nuts and bolts rusted solid). I had a go trying a socket and a ring spanner, but one of the nuts has rounded. So to get any further with that means dismantling the whole plastic bumper cover and using an angle grinder to cut the bolts off. The big bolt on the chassis rail is rusted tight and the hexagonal head is crumbling, so that's a major problem too. With further attempts trying to fit the trim I've succeeded in getting one side piece in place. But I can't slide the centre piece into engagement without unclipping the end again. The two basic problems seem to be a) the metal and the plastic edges are reluctant to stay together. I get the metal in but the plastic bit sticks up. Or b) The force to get both in at once breaks the clip. Then when I do get a section engaged it pops out again at the slightest movement, eg when I move along to do the next clip.

Jul 25th, 2015, 18:07	#8
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 10:38 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	A post on Brickboard suggested the use of the type of bolts shown. The head slots into the back of the trim. Either adjust the size of the existing clip holes if needed or drill new one adjacent to them so that they can be used with the proper clips later. With the price of the clips being as high as they are it makes a cheap fix. Poster said it works well. Access to the nuts is also OK I think. I haven't tried it. I have some new clips so might try the drop bumper method. My trims not as secure as they could be and that's how they get lost.

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