2.5D crank locking tool

[Iceonfire]

Question for the cambelt installer gurus
I am about to refit my crank pulley and when I insert the crank locking tool, the crankshaft is moving away from the TDC Mark ever so slightly. Should I be concerned?

[Martin Cox]

I don't think you need worry if it's only a few degrees off. The purpose of the locking tool is purely to allow you to loosen and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt whilst holding the crank close enough to TDC so the valves don't hit the pistons.

Just ensure that when fitting the cambelt that the crankshaft is set to TDC using the reference marks on the flywheel and the bell housing once the locking tool has been removed.

Martin

1998 V70 TDi auto 227,000 miles

[Iceonfire]

Cheers Martin, that seems to make sense. I have already done the belt to the marks and was at the stretch to yield bolt tightening stage.
I guess that once I have removed the crank locking tool, I can return the crank back to its TDC Mark, ensure my cam is still in position and then tighten my cam sprocket.

[Iceonfire]

Well I went with it and removed the crank locking tool. Tightening my cam sprocket up cambelt side of engine and gave it two revolutions. I noticed however on my cambelt tensioner, the pointer is now 4mm below the fixed mark but before I rotated the engine twice by hand it was 2mm
Will I need to readjust the tensioner all over again?

[Martin Cox]

That sounds right. Ensure the crank is at TDC and the camshaft locking tool is holding the cam in the correct position and the camshaft sprocket is free to turn on the taper on the end of the camshaft.

Fit and tension the belt, then do up the sprocket bolt. Turn the crank by hand through two complete turns (or any multiple of 2 turns if you're feeling energetic) and check everything lines up as it should at TDC once more and you're done.

Martin

[Iceonfire]

Thanks Martin, that’s what I am saying. I had my cam sprocket loose to turn freely when I set my tensioner 2mm below the fixed mark. I nipped up the main crank bolt and my cam sprocket bolt and then done the two revolutions. Everything lines back up on the crank and cam markings but I was kind of expecting the timing belt tensioner pointer to have retained a 2mm gap but it is now at about 4mm

[Iceonfire]

Okay it was bugging me that much, I took it all apart again and retensioned the tensioner pointer to 2mm past the fixed mark on the tensioner.
I have realised that when I am tightening my cam sprocket on the cambelt side to the required 100Nm the pointer on the tensioner is turning another couple of mm approx. So yet again the pointer is now again about 4mm beyond the fixed mark.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
If I am to ensure I only have 2mm at the end of my tightening procedure I would probably have to start with my tensioner pointer level with the fixed point on the tensioner if it’s moving when I nip up the cam sprocket.

[tdidave]

Don't quote me on this because although I've done this job a couple of times, its so long ago since the last time my memory's a little fuzzed. However, if I remember correctly I timed up the engine/flywheel/cam-slot, tightened everything up and then fitted the timing belt and tensioner.

You may be conversant with this already, but I've attached a PDF with the correct procedure with this post. Its the one I've used and followed to do this job.

All the best.. Dave..

[Iceonfire]

Cheers tdi Dave, yes I had seen that guide.
I gave up for the day as I now need a new stretch to yield bolt anyway.
Probably going to need a 3/4” extension bar as well, as using my 1/2” inch tools, I was only able to nip the crank bolt up about another 100 degrees after I had achieved my 160Nm

[tdidave]

Yeah.. probably best to take a break from it. A few hours apart can work wonders sometimes.

I've been wracking my brains to try and remember the exact procedure I used when I last did this job. I do seem to remember the 2mm business with the tensioner though and going back over it again to be sure.

You're definitely going to need 3/4 drive to tension that pulley bolt though. I was lucky in that I had the gear to hand. Set up your socket and extension on an axle stand so as to be at the same height as the bolt when applying the torque.

I do wish you all the best, and will be keeping an eye on this thread.

Dave..