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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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1972 pv1800es

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Old May 15th, 2021, 16:11   #81
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The connetors should fit Alan, just don't expect those bulbs to be anything like as good as halogen. Also considering the fragility of the wiring in that area, a halogen upgrade wouldn't necessarily be a great idea unless you upgraded the wiring.
Thank you for that Dave,
At this stage I'm just trying to get the system working the way it was designed - not the way the PO bodged it with generic connectors.
In the longer term I suspect 'Janet' will want to fit LED bulbs to improve the lighting.
:-)
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Old May 15th, 2021, 16:16   #82
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Regarding the oil leak, if it turns out to be the rear crankshaft seal the chances are that the original felt seal is still in place.

These are prone to leaking after a long period of standing and it 'may' just swell enough to seal with more use. If not, a conversion to a rubber seal is available from Brookhouse for around £40 which includes a new seal housing, well worth doing if you do end up taking the gearbox out at all.
Many thanks,
Just looking at the engine bay, I'd say it is unlikely the motor has been out - and I'd say the same about the gearbox. The gearbox looks quite easy to drop down under the car, should that need to happen. It would indeed be sensible to change to a modern seal, and I think to change the clutch plate at the same time. That decision will be up to 'Janet' though (if it was my car I'd do both).
We'll see if the old seal swells up a bit in the next week or so, sometimes these things fix themselves!
Alan
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Old May 15th, 2021, 16:18   #83
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Hi

After having fitted many exhaust's it is always better to fit a complete system as you can easily rotate the various parts to obtain a perfect fit and the es has plenty of places for the exhaust to rub. I have always found it much harder to get a perfect fit when just doing a part replacement. Another thing to consider is stainless steel clamps as you will then have many years of trouble free motoring as far as the exhaust is concerned.My stainless steel exhaust that I fitted to my es in 1982 lasted till 2006 before it needed attention because of the innards of the silencers were rattling.

The other advantage of a complete system is you can cut any clamps or pipes that are provimg difficult to remove. Good luck with rest of the jobs that need attention.

Gavin
I take your point Gavin, but it isn't my car and the owner wants me to have a go at fixing what is there.
If the choice was mine I'd probably get a new stainless system now, which might well outlast the car - and me!
Alan
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Old May 15th, 2021, 16:18   #84
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Thank you for that Dave,
At this stage I'm just trying to get the system working the way it was designed - not the way the PO bodged it with generic connectors.
In the longer term I suspect 'Janet' will want to fit LED bulbs to improve the lighting.
:-)
You're welcome Alan, i thought she might, hence adding the links for the conversion bulbs designed to fit as well as the converter rings to allow H4 bulbs to fit. Being pre-1986 there's no MoT problems with LED bulbs although those linked to will give a perfect beam pattern.

Fitting the replacement headlamp sockets should be fairly easy, as long as the full beam tell-tale works and full beam works at the same time then dipped beam should also work.

There are other headlamp options available for the 7" round headlamps but i would suggest the simplest choices rather than going for a full on crystal lens with faceted reflectors as they would just look wrong.

For the time being i'd definitely agree with getting everything working to a basic standard and from there decide what needs upgrading/enhancing.
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Old May 15th, 2021, 16:35   #85
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You're welcome Alan, i thought she might, hence adding the links for the conversion bulbs designed to fit as well as the converter rings to allow H4 bulbs to fit. Being pre-1986 there's no MoT problems with LED bulbs although those linked to will give a perfect beam pattern.

Fitting the replacement headlamp sockets should be fairly easy, as long as the full beam tell-tale works and full beam works at the same time then dipped beam should also work.

There are other headlamp options available for the 7" round headlamps but i would suggest the simplest choices rather than going for a full on crystal lens with faceted reflectors as they would just look wrong.

For the time being i'd definitely agree with getting everything working to a basic standard and from there decide what needs upgrading/enhancing.
Thank you again Dave, I have passed on the link to the LED bulbs. In my view that is a better answer than converting to halogen bulbs - I'd say the wiring would be at best marginal for halogen bulbs (particularly with no fuse protection) but would be absolutely fine for LEDs.

Once I get Delores running the way Mr Volvo meant it to, 'Janet' can decide upon sensible upgrades. She has a realistic budget that should enable her to have a really nice car with some subtle (and largely invisible) improvements over standard. I've suggested: LED headlamps, a stainless exhaust and electronic ignition - those are all things I'd do if it were my car (but it is not of course).

For the time being I've committed to making the lighting work properly, trying to align the exhaust properly and sorting out the oil leak (I'm hoping the additive will do that)... that is all

:-)
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Old May 15th, 2021, 17:08   #86
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Thank you again Dave, I have passed on the link to the LED bulbs. In my view that is a better answer than converting to halogen bulbs - I'd say the wiring would be at best marginal for halogen bulbs (particularly with no fuse protection) but would be absolutely fine for LEDs.

Once I get Delores running the way Mr Volvo meant it to, 'Janet' can decide upon sensible upgrades. She has a realistic budget that should enable her to have a really nice car with some subtle (and largely invisible) improvements over standard. I've suggested: LED headlamps, a stainless exhaust and electronic ignition - those are all things I'd do if it were my car (but it is not of course).

For the time being I've committed to making the lighting work properly, trying to align the exhaust properly and sorting out the oil leak (I'm hoping the additive will do that)... that is all

:-)
Does Dolores have an alternator or a dynamo Alan? If it's the latter then that's another good reason for the LED bulbs but even with the alternator, i seem to recall (certainly from my old 144) the alternator wasn't a great output (45A at the most if memory serves) and i'd suspect the alternator would be about the same if it has one.

Do you have a dwell meter at all? From the things you've said i'd suggest checking the dwell angle on the points and the ignition timing, also the valve clearances. Just setting those up correctly could sort the feel that there is something more to give from the engine, a comment you made in an earlier post suggested you felt it had more to give.

With the exhaust, have a look at these two links :

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...injection_Cars

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...anch_Manifolds

It seems all the bespoke hangers are still available on the first page along with many other service parts. On the second link, the sports/performance oriented parts are also available and in many cases cheaper than the original/reproduction parts (manifold/downpipes a good example) so upgrades might be in order from a budget point of view!
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Old May 15th, 2021, 17:50   #87
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Many thanks,
Just looking at the engine bay, I'd say it is unlikely the motor has been out - and I'd say the same about the gearbox. The gearbox looks quite easy to drop down under the car, should that need to happen. It would indeed be sensible to change to a modern seal, and I think to change the clutch plate at the same time. That decision will be up to 'Janet' though (if it was my car I'd do both).
We'll see if the old seal swells up a bit in the next week or so, sometimes these things fix themselves!
Alan
As maybe has been said, check all sources of possible oil leaks before resorting to rear main seal. Valve cover gasket especially . The holes for the screws on the valve cover are typically mushroomed so need to be re-flattened before fitting a new gasket. Also if there is excess crankcase pressure, that needs to addressed. And check the configuration of the PCV system.

http://www.sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams_an...tm#PCV_Options

Lots of other good info on that website too.

In regard to the RMS, varying opinions of Rubber vs Felt. Have a view of this video particularly in respect of the differences between various rubber seals.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=doiF25...nel=AmazonCars
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Old May 15th, 2021, 18:20   #88
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I've suggested: LED headlamps, a stainless exhaust and electronic ignition - those are all things I'd do if it were my car (but it is not of course).

:-)
A note on the electronic ignition. If you are thinking about the modules like the Pertronix which just replace ignition points, be aware that the bigger issue may be the rest of the distributor. On a 50 year old distributor the shaft bushings may be worn and the mechanical advance mechanism may be sticky or the springs out of spec. The vac servo function may be non operative. The distributor may be rebuildable with the exception of the vac servo which I think is out of production. My B20E displayed a lot of timing fluctuation above 2500 RPM which I fixed by eliminating the distributor.

If the distributor is mechanically fine, modules like the Pertronix are useful for eliminating the points wear issue; but, they do not improve performance. The Pertronix module has a fixed voltage drop across its output terminals (about 2 volts) which drops the available voltage across the ignition coil and limits peak coil current and spark energy. That is not a particular problem if the vehicle charging system is running close to 14 volts and the engine does not run over 6000 RPM. It can be a problem in cold weather starts where the cranking voltage drops to 10 volts (or a lot less at the coil terminal). The reduced spark energy can make cold weather starting problematic.

If you want to make an ignition system improvement, I suggest a fine wire sparkplug such as the NGK iridium plugs. The fine wire center electrode creates a stronger local electrical field at the tip of the plug which allows it to generate a strong spark with compromised fuel mixtures. I have been running the same iridium plugs in my B20E for about 5 years without issue. I do not recommend them if the engine burns oil or has poor fuel mixture control because they are too expensive to be changing on a regular basis because of fuel or oil contamination.

If the starter motor dies, make sure that it is replaced with the later Bosch SR 437X starter motor which is a gear driven permanent magnet starter. It is pretty much a drop in replacement for the existing Bosch SR 37X. Every Volvo 2, 7 and 9 series RWD car starting sometime in the 1980s received the SR 437X. The SR 437X draws less current when cranking (you end up with higher voltages which is good for the ignition system) and it spins the engine faster. Improves starting because of the higher cranking speed and higher cranking voltage.

Finally, you made an earlier comment about installing correct headlight sockets using a soldering iron for the repair. I would treat soldering as an absolute last resort for repairs. Getting large gauge copper wires hot enough to avoid a cold solder joint usually results in heat damage to the adjacent wiring insulation. The insulation on the 1800's wiring will be 85C at best. The second problem is that if you get the wire hot enough to avoid a cold solder joint solder will migrate up the strands of the copper away from the joint stiffening the wire. In the long term this makes the repair subject to fracture from vibration because of the inflexibility. My preferred method for simple splices is an uninsulated closed barrel crimp style butt splice covered with a piece of heat shrink tubing - double walled if the area is subject to moisture. A correctly sized closed barrel splice covered with heat shrink will only be slightly larger that the existing wire avoiding the ugly pink / blue / yellow blobs associated with common insulated butt splices.
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Old May 15th, 2021, 20:26   #89
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Does Dolores have an alternator or a dynamo Alan? If it's the latter then that's another good reason for the LED bulbs but even with the alternator, i seem to recall (certainly from my old 144) the alternator wasn't a great output (45A at the most if memory serves) and i'd suspect the alternator would be about the same if it has one.

Do you have a dwell meter at all? From the things you've said i'd suggest checking the dwell angle on the points and the ignition timing, also the valve clearances. Just setting those up correctly could sort the feel that there is something more to give from the engine, a comment you made in an earlier post suggested you felt it had more to give.

With the exhaust, have a look at these two links :

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...injection_Cars

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...anch_Manifolds

It seems all the bespoke hangers are still available on the first page along with many other service parts. On the second link, the sports/performance oriented parts are also available and in many cases cheaper than the original/reproduction parts (manifold/downpipes a good example) so upgrades might be in order from a budget point of view!
Delores has a 55A Bosch alternator Dave. I think LED headlamps are a good idea because of the puny wire Volvo used - I don't want it catching fire!

I haven't considered any engine tuning yet. It is an old fashioned OHV unit, so it won't take long to check the clearances and I'll probably get round to that in the next month. I have a feeling the einspritzen needs a bit of fettling.

Many thanks for the link. A nice 2" sporty exhaust for £240sounds favourite. If I can't fettle the existing one into the right space I'll see if 'Janet' will just buy one of those and I'll have it fitted in an afternoon.

:-)
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Old May 15th, 2021, 21:08   #90
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Delores has a 55A Bosch alternator Dave. I think LED headlamps are a good idea because of the puny wire Volvo used - I don't want it catching fire!

I haven't considered any engine tuning yet. It is an old fashioned OHV unit, so it won't take long to check the clearances and I'll probably get round to that in the next month. I have a feeling the einspritzen needs a bit of fettling.

Many thanks for the link. A nice 2" sporty exhaust for £240sounds favourite. If I can't fettle the existing one into the right space I'll see if 'Janet' will just buy one of those and I'll have it fitted in an afternoon.

:-)
The alternator should cope with halogen bulbs Alan but i totally agree, the LEDs would be a good idea because of the old, thin wire - add a fuse into the headlamp feed for added safety!

Golden rule before even thinking of touching the einspritzen is get the valve clearances correct and the ignition dwell and timing - many faults can be "dialed out" by tweaking the injection then suddenly reappear as bad or worse after you've sorted the valve clearances and ignition.

Given the fact the engine and gearbox don't seem to have been touched during the restoration, i'd whip the plugs out and check the gaps first then get a dwell meter on the points and finally check/adjust the timing and check the advance etc as mentioned by our Canadian friends further up.

Also if you do end up dropping the box to do the rear crank seal, i'd suggest changing the oil in it (and the diff) but those are probably on your "to do" list anyway. Wise precaution renewing them if you're unsure if they've ever been done, ditto the brake fluid.
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