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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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May 15th, 2021, 16:11 | #81 | |
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At this stage I'm just trying to get the system working the way it was designed - not the way the PO bodged it with generic connectors. In the longer term I suspect 'Janet' will want to fit LED bulbs to improve the lighting. :-)
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May 15th, 2021, 16:16 | #82 | |
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Just looking at the engine bay, I'd say it is unlikely the motor has been out - and I'd say the same about the gearbox. The gearbox looks quite easy to drop down under the car, should that need to happen. It would indeed be sensible to change to a modern seal, and I think to change the clutch plate at the same time. That decision will be up to 'Janet' though (if it was my car I'd do both). We'll see if the old seal swells up a bit in the next week or so, sometimes these things fix themselves! Alan
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May 15th, 2021, 16:18 | #83 | |
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If the choice was mine I'd probably get a new stainless system now, which might well outlast the car - and me! Alan
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May 15th, 2021, 16:18 | #84 | |
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Fitting the replacement headlamp sockets should be fairly easy, as long as the full beam tell-tale works and full beam works at the same time then dipped beam should also work. There are other headlamp options available for the 7" round headlamps but i would suggest the simplest choices rather than going for a full on crystal lens with faceted reflectors as they would just look wrong. For the time being i'd definitely agree with getting everything working to a basic standard and from there decide what needs upgrading/enhancing.
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May 15th, 2021, 16:35 | #85 | |
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Once I get Delores running the way Mr Volvo meant it to, 'Janet' can decide upon sensible upgrades. She has a realistic budget that should enable her to have a really nice car with some subtle (and largely invisible) improvements over standard. I've suggested: LED headlamps, a stainless exhaust and electronic ignition - those are all things I'd do if it were my car (but it is not of course). For the time being I've committed to making the lighting work properly, trying to align the exhaust properly and sorting out the oil leak (I'm hoping the additive will do that)... that is all :-)
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May 15th, 2021, 17:08 | #86 | |
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Do you have a dwell meter at all? From the things you've said i'd suggest checking the dwell angle on the points and the ignition timing, also the valve clearances. Just setting those up correctly could sort the feel that there is something more to give from the engine, a comment you made in an earlier post suggested you felt it had more to give. With the exhaust, have a look at these two links : https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...injection_Cars https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...anch_Manifolds It seems all the bespoke hangers are still available on the first page along with many other service parts. On the second link, the sports/performance oriented parts are also available and in many cases cheaper than the original/reproduction parts (manifold/downpipes a good example) so upgrades might be in order from a budget point of view!
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May 15th, 2021, 17:50 | #87 | |
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http://www.sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams_an...tm#PCV_Options Lots of other good info on that website too. In regard to the RMS, varying opinions of Rubber vs Felt. Have a view of this video particularly in respect of the differences between various rubber seals. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=doiF25...nel=AmazonCars |
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May 15th, 2021, 18:20 | #88 | |
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If the distributor is mechanically fine, modules like the Pertronix are useful for eliminating the points wear issue; but, they do not improve performance. The Pertronix module has a fixed voltage drop across its output terminals (about 2 volts) which drops the available voltage across the ignition coil and limits peak coil current and spark energy. That is not a particular problem if the vehicle charging system is running close to 14 volts and the engine does not run over 6000 RPM. It can be a problem in cold weather starts where the cranking voltage drops to 10 volts (or a lot less at the coil terminal). The reduced spark energy can make cold weather starting problematic. If you want to make an ignition system improvement, I suggest a fine wire sparkplug such as the NGK iridium plugs. The fine wire center electrode creates a stronger local electrical field at the tip of the plug which allows it to generate a strong spark with compromised fuel mixtures. I have been running the same iridium plugs in my B20E for about 5 years without issue. I do not recommend them if the engine burns oil or has poor fuel mixture control because they are too expensive to be changing on a regular basis because of fuel or oil contamination. If the starter motor dies, make sure that it is replaced with the later Bosch SR 437X starter motor which is a gear driven permanent magnet starter. It is pretty much a drop in replacement for the existing Bosch SR 37X. Every Volvo 2, 7 and 9 series RWD car starting sometime in the 1980s received the SR 437X. The SR 437X draws less current when cranking (you end up with higher voltages which is good for the ignition system) and it spins the engine faster. Improves starting because of the higher cranking speed and higher cranking voltage. Finally, you made an earlier comment about installing correct headlight sockets using a soldering iron for the repair. I would treat soldering as an absolute last resort for repairs. Getting large gauge copper wires hot enough to avoid a cold solder joint usually results in heat damage to the adjacent wiring insulation. The insulation on the 1800's wiring will be 85C at best. The second problem is that if you get the wire hot enough to avoid a cold solder joint solder will migrate up the strands of the copper away from the joint stiffening the wire. In the long term this makes the repair subject to fracture from vibration because of the inflexibility. My preferred method for simple splices is an uninsulated closed barrel crimp style butt splice covered with a piece of heat shrink tubing - double walled if the area is subject to moisture. A correctly sized closed barrel splice covered with heat shrink will only be slightly larger that the existing wire avoiding the ugly pink / blue / yellow blobs associated with common insulated butt splices. |
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May 15th, 2021, 20:26 | #89 | |
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I haven't considered any engine tuning yet. It is an old fashioned OHV unit, so it won't take long to check the clearances and I'll probably get round to that in the next month. I have a feeling the einspritzen needs a bit of fettling. Many thanks for the link. A nice 2" sporty exhaust for £240sounds favourite. If I can't fettle the existing one into the right space I'll see if 'Janet' will just buy one of those and I'll have it fitted in an afternoon. :-)
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May 15th, 2021, 21:08 | #90 | |
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Golden rule before even thinking of touching the einspritzen is get the valve clearances correct and the ignition dwell and timing - many faults can be "dialed out" by tweaking the injection then suddenly reappear as bad or worse after you've sorted the valve clearances and ignition. Given the fact the engine and gearbox don't seem to have been touched during the restoration, i'd whip the plugs out and check the gaps first then get a dwell meter on the points and finally check/adjust the timing and check the advance etc as mentioned by our Canadian friends further up. Also if you do end up dropping the box to do the rear crank seal, i'd suggest changing the oil in it (and the diff) but those are probably on your "to do" list anyway. Wise precaution renewing them if you're unsure if they've ever been done, ditto the brake fluid.
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