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XC90 D5 won’t start. High pressure correct bleeding?

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Old May 15th, 2021, 17:01   #1
TuckerTime
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Question XC90 D5 won’t start. High pressure correct bleeding?

Hello everyone, new user.
My 56 plate XC90 D5 won’t start. The car was running (poor performance, limp mode) with a warning on the dash indicating dpf ash full. Had a look in the engine bay, noticed the swirl flap actuator arm was missing and exhaust gasses has been leaking out the end of the swirl flap assembly. So before trying to get the dpf re-gened I wanted to replace the swirl flaps, remove and clean the EGR and Throttle body. On completion of these 3 tasks it now won’t start.
As part of replacing the swirl flap kit you have to remove the high pressure injector pipes. I’m now wondering if the system is not bleeding out properly.
Is there any particular way you have to bleed these D5’s?
Any ideas?
Many thanks
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Old May 15th, 2021, 17:22   #2
cheshired5
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It has an in tank pump which you should hear running with ignition on.
A few 10-15 second cycles of the pump should be enough to send enough fuel around the system for a quick start assuming there's no other issues.

Diagnostics showing the fuel rail pressure during cranking would confirm or rule out fuel delivery being an issue.
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Old May 15th, 2021, 18:22   #3
TuckerTime
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Hey, thanks for the reply
Yes I can hear the pump in the tank priming when ignition on. I have tried half a dozen times now those 10-15 second cycles. Still nothing. Any idea what the rail pressure should be when cranking?
Thanks again
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Old May 15th, 2021, 20:12   #4
cheshired5
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During cranking, you should see figures comfortably in excess of:
150 Bar
15000 kPa
150000 hPa
2200 psi
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Old May 17th, 2021, 15:03   #5
TuckerTime
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Managed to get it started, thankfully it was me just not being patient enough. Took it to a garage to get the DPF re-gened and the tech said that the levels of soot where not high enough to carry out a regen. As soon as he plugged in his diagnostic laptop it he took it out of limp mode. Drove 20miles, was perfect. Full power. Drove to work this morning, got half way (5miles) and it went back into limp mode 🤬. Any ideas??
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Old May 17th, 2021, 15:17   #6
cheshired5
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Get the code read, ideally with Vida and take it from there.
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Old Mar 30th, 2022, 10:39   #7
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hi all i am new to diesels when i started this job swirl flap replacement, what could possibly go wrong.
Now the car will not start.

i have xc90 2011 D5 5244T18.
full tank of fuel.

removed injectors
inlet manifold
replaced swirl flaps
refitted inlet manifold
refitted injectors in original position.
Tried to start the car no start.

injectors 3,4,5 from pulley end of engine stuck had to take solenoid off and use slide hammer to remove them. can removing the solenoid from the injector casus an issues?

i removed return pipe from high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), i did not block off the return pipe. finished half way through job as light gone carried on in the morning to finish the job up.

when i tried to start the car i did not prime the HPFP (did not know i had to at the time), car just cranked over. Can this cause damage to the HPFP?

what i have done since then,
primed the HPFP 20-30 times 30 sec between primes. (key Pos 0-II wait 30 sec and repeat then cranking.
still no start.
checking with VIDA no fuel rail pressure. 10900hpa pos II, cranking 17500hpa. rpm 200 (very low fuel pressure)
fuel control valve pos 1 200mA, pos II 600mA for 5-10 sec then 200mA, crancking 1600mA constantly.

Removed fuel in pipe to HPFP key pos II good flow no bubbles into container.
could not check fuel pressure but gauge is turning up on friday so i will be able to measure it at some point.
Refit fuel in pipe.
Remove fuel return pipe from miltiway plastic pipe connector fitted brake bleeder to HPFP return sucked fuel from HPFP key Pos II lots of fuel coming out no bubbles.
Prime HPFP 20 times.
no start.

what am i doing wrong?
or have i trashed the HPFP by trying to start the car without doing the fuel priming the first time i tried to start the engine after replacing the swirl flaps.

i now have a soot warning particulate filter possibly from all the engine cranking no start.
or because i disconnected the 2 connector on the back of the engine when i removed the plastic cover that goes over the injector connectors, these are O2 and Pressure-temp sensor for DPF.

any help will be greatly appreciated.

i have a second hand HPFP turning up friday as well. just in case.
same number as the one that was on the car 31303475
but it is not the same as the one listed in vida for my vin 36001127
the date code on the original HPFP is 11-02-08 which i presume is 8th feb 2011 which ties in with the date of first registration of my car it is earlier than it but not be much. but both have the same Bosch number 0445010111.

Last edited by Davezj; Mar 30th, 2022 at 11:23.
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Old Mar 30th, 2022, 11:37   #8
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
hi all i am new to diesels when i started this job swirl flap replacement, what could possibly go wrong.
Now the car will not start.

i have xc90 2011 D5 5244T18.
full tank of fuel.

removed injectors
inlet manifold
replaced swirl flaps
refitted inlet manifold
refitted injectors in original position.
Tried to start the car no start.

injectors 3,4,5 from pulley end of engine stuck had to take solenoid off and use slide hammer to remove them. can removing the solenoid from the injector casus an issues?

i removed return pipe from high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), i did not block off the return pipe. finished half way through job as light gone carried on in the morning to finish the job up.

when i tried to start the car i did not prime the HPFP (did not know i had to at the time), car just cranked over. Can this cause damage to the HPFP?

what i have done since then,
primed the HPFP 20-30 times 30 sec between primes. (key Pos 0-II wait 30 sec and repeat then cranking.
still no start.
checking with VIDA no fuel rail pressure. 10900hpa pos II, cranking 17500hpa. rpm 200 (very low fuel pressure)
fuel control valve pos 1 200mA, pos II 600mA for 5-10 sec then 200mA, crancking 1600mA constantly.

Removed fuel in pipe to HPFP key pos II good flow no bubbles into container.
could not check fuel pressure but gauge is turning up on friday so i will be able to measure it at some point.
Refit fuel in pipe.
Remove fuel return pipe from miltiway plastic pipe connector fitted brake bleeder to HPFP return sucked fuel from HPFP key Pos II lots of fuel coming out no bubbles.
Prime HPFP 20 times.
no start.

what am i doing wrong?
or have i trashed the HPFP by trying to start the car without doing the fuel priming the first time i tried to start the engine after replacing the swirl flaps.

i now have a soot warning particulate filter possibly from all the engine cranking no start.
or because i disconnected the 2 connector on the back of the engine when i removed the plastic cover that goes over the injector connectors, these are O2 and Pressure-temp sensor for DPF.

any help will be greatly appreciated.

i have a second hand HPFP turning up friday as well. just in case.
same number as the one that was on the car 31303475
but it is not the same as the one listed in vida for my vin 36001127
the date code on the original HPFP is 11-02-08 which i presume is 8th feb 2011 which ties in with the date of first registration of my car it is earlier than it but not be much. but both have the same Bosch number 0445010111.
If you tamper with an injector by taking the top off they must be considered scrap due to the fine fuel flow calibration .. Did you fit new injector clamp kits ? they must only be used once as the spring looses tension and the injectors will leak and carbon will seal them in again ..
This may or may not be your problem but you should address it .
if you take off the thin fuel return pipes from the injectors see if there much fuel running out of them when running or trying to start .
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Old Mar 30th, 2022, 12:22   #9
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I would remove the output pipe from the high pressure pump and firmly attach a hose leading into a jar - crank for a second or two and see if there is any output.

This is safe to do if done with due care - whilst the pump is capable of generating considerable fuel pressure, this is only occurs when there is resistance to the fuel flow. If there is no resistance then pressure does not build, an the volume pumped at cranking engine speed is very low (at cranking speed the pump will turn circa 5 times per second). However - do not hold the hose or stand in the trajectory of the output nozzle on the pump just to be safe, and crank the engine for a second or two. If you're not happy doing that - then do the test by unbolting the pump and turn it by hand, or unscrew a fuel union by 2 or 3 turns (but do not disconnect it) and crank the engine to see if any fuel comes out.

.
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Last edited by Tannaton; Mar 30th, 2022 at 12:33.
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Old Mar 30th, 2022, 20:54   #10
Davezj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
If you tamper with an injector by taking the top off they must be considered scrap due to the fine fuel flow calibration .. Did you fit new injector clamp kits ? they must only be used once as the spring looses tension and the injectors will leak and carbon will seal them in again ..
This may or may not be your problem but you should address it .
if you take off the thin fuel return pipes from the injectors see if there much fuel running out of them when running or trying to start .
If you tamper with an injector by taking the top off they must be considered scrap due to the fine fuel flow calibration ..
Obviously i dont know much about diesel engine but that sound crazy, why would no one state that in there how to guide for removing injectors.

Did you fit new injector clamp kits ? they must only be used once as the spring looses tension and the injectors will leak and carbon will seal them in again ..
no i did not relace the clamps they were reused but new copper wahers and high temp (1400C grease applied on washer). if combustion gases were escaping from around the injector then i can fill the injector bore with water and if gases coming out there will be bubbles or water will be blown out of injector bore. and if the water level is stable then the water is not getting drawn done into the cylinder. this seems like a resonable test to me.
then when i have confirmed there are no leaks i can blow the water out of the injector bores.



if you take off the thin fuel return pipes from the injectors see if there much fuel running out of them when running or trying to start

i have not tried this test but i would imagine there will be lots of fuel coming out of the return pipe with the 5 little connector on it as it is attached to the return pipe on the high pressure fuel pump and loads of fuel come out of that pipe when cranking.
do you mean do a leak test on the top of the injector. i can clamp the injector return pipe at the 4 way union to stop fuel gushing out of the 5 little connectors. then i can crank the engine and see if there is any fuel leaking out the top of the injectors. this is something i can try as i have not tried this yet.
good idea.


i have been more concerned with the fact the HPFP is not making any pressure in the fuel rail only 10900hpa key pos II, and cranking 17500hpa.
as i understand it the pressure should be key Pos II 350000hpa, cranking 450000hpa.
so with the low fuel pressure in the rail the engine is never going to start.

i will have a look at the injectors operation and the sealing of the injectors to the head. once i can get the fuel pressure to be normal.
i will test the injectors with the vida injector checking process which i would imagine should show any abnormallities with the correction values displayed.
but this requires the engine to be running to check this.
lots to think about.

thanks for the info and things to check.

Last edited by Davezj; Mar 30th, 2022 at 22:35.
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