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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Cam belt change 2.3 turboViews : 766 Replies : 20Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 09:07 | #11 |
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I count my blessings living in The Netherlands, all mentioned parts, including the front crank housing gasket, available ex stock from multiple suppliers all over the country. So as long as it does not involve specific RHD parts, it would seem we do not need to worry about availibility of spare parts for our bricks the coming years. Shipping over to the UK is something else...
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Feb 9th, 2024, 09:18 | #12 | |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 09:59 | #13 | |
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Other than basic service items, you'll usually have to wait a couple days for parts. I Was talking about this the other day, I've been watching some YouTubers resurrect old American metal. They drag a 70's land yacht out of a barn or shed or the woods, then just pop to the nearest 'o reilleys' where they have exactly what they need, in stock, or move it across thousands of Miles for the next day. Meanwhile I needed a rotor arm for a fairly common car and it took 3 days! |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 16:29 | #14 | |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 17:01 | #15 | |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 18:49 | #16 |
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To make this thread helpful for anyone searching in the future, the following Volvo special tools are very useful, although some may argue not essential, for the jobs the op is planning.
Retainer for the crankshaft pulley 9995284 Cam and auxiliary shaft seal installation sleeve 9995025 Crankshaft seal installation sleeve 9995283 Not so essential is the camshaft pulley locking tool 9995199 For the latter you can easily use a generic adjustable pulley counter-hold tool. The advantage of using the correct tools for inserting the front seals is that they are designed to avoid flipping over the inner lip of the seal which other methods might do, thus avoiding annoying new leaks. As an aside, Volvo also do a special tool for inserting the rear crankshaft seal. You may well have a leaking rear seal but can only replace it yourself if you are prepared to remove the transmission. IMHO these seals will leak if the PCV system has been neglected. This is very often the case, even on cars with service history. Checking, and if necessary fixing, the PCV is the first job to do before replacing the seals. |
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Feb 9th, 2024, 23:43 | #17 |
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A coupke of hacks:
To get the cam pulley off, I discovered the crank locking tool fits the holes in the pulley well enough, and wedge it against the water pump. The crank bolt is xNM + 60degrees. I found turning the breaker bar from being in contact with the auto transmission cooler line, until it is in contact with the upper radiator hose, is pretty much bang on 60degrees. |
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Feb 10th, 2024, 01:58 | #18 |
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I do the 44ft lbs + 60° by putting the breaker bar on the bolt where it fits over towards the left hand side of the engine compartment, noting its position then taking it off and moving it to the next flat of the nut anti-clockwise. Then pull hard until its back in the first position.
Six sided nut. 360°➗6 = 60° |
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Feb 10th, 2024, 13:09 | #19 |
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IMHO these seals will leak if the PCV system has been neglected. This is very often the case, even on cars with service history. Checking, and if necessary fixing, the PCV is the first job to do before replacing the seals.[/QUOTE]
Spot on. I was going to mention that as people only tend to look at the system when they get problems. IE heavy breathing or "Damp" seals. |
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Feb 10th, 2024, 14:33 | #20 |
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Only change seals if they are leaking.
Would you replace your shoes if they had 10 years life left in them? Would you replace your socks if they didn't have holes in them? WOULD YOU??? Nooo!
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