Spot the difference - Radiator Edition

[TurboZutek]

So, was looking out at the car today when I noticed it was wee'ing itself!! :-|

Here's a healthy, normal radiator:



And here's the abomination I have on mine:



Have you noticed the difference yet!?? That's right, the lower tabs from mine have somehow disappeared and I've got a nice drip drip when stationary and very likely a lovely mist under the car when driving!! :-( The tabs are clean gone, likely a victim of 16 years of expansion and contraction!

So, my question is - anyone seen this before?? Is this common?!

I think it's new radiator time, or possibly reconditioned replacement time. I'm not sure I'd have much luck with a rad from the scrappy; I don't see any way I could test it before removing it from the car...

Any recommendations in the Paisley / Glasgow area of Scotland very welcome indeed!

Chris...

[cam]

I have just replaced my rad for the exact same reason (missing tabs) drip drip
i also had to do the same on my older car when i was using it,its like as if they corrode?rot away,good luck,cam.

[jeff.warner]

Hi.
It cost me £60 to have a second hand rad supplied and fitted to ours, but it only lasted a few months, so then decided to go the brand new route and had that done for just over £200, should have done that in the begining.
Cheers.

[Luxobarge]

I replaced mine myself, cost about £85 for a decent aftermarket one. Took 2 - 3 hours, not too difficult, I have pics of the job if you need them. It's absolutely imperative to replace the O-rings on the oil cooler pipes, along with the clips that hold them on - not expensive, get them from Volvo. If you don't you'll probably find it'll leak oil from the unions and at worst a pipe will come adrift and it'll ose ALL the oil.

[TurboZutek]

Ah yes, the hydraulic union couplings. Good point, I'll order those bits new I think!

I also think I'll invest in a new lower hose; while the one on there seems in good condition it is 16 years old and has been removed and replaced a fair few times in its life.

I've been ringing around today to find a rad and it looks like I can get one for £85 + vat... Problem is I need to check the size of the oil cooler couplings (they come in 15 and 19 mm?), as if they are a different size the other option is a rad for £120 +vat!! Nuts!

[TurboZutek]

Ok good news, I went to Star Radiators today (Ibrox) and got a new rad for £105. Cheapest other quote I could find anywhere was in the order of £130, so I'm quite happy with that.

The guys there know their stuff and gave me some tips on replacement including drawing me a diagram of bolt routing around the core. They also knew my car had 19mm unions when even the Volvo dealer wasn't sure.

I'll post some more as the job gets done!

That's the good news, now the bad news?



Here's how my ATF Fluid is looking. Ugh. It doesn't smell burnt, but it's looking decidedly crappy. I think my next thing to look at might be a flush of the system, which looks to be a bit of a messy pain in the neck.

Chris...

[TurboZutek]

Right then, productive day today!


Got the new radiator in!

On installation noticed it's a BEHR (Hella) branded rad so should be OK for a while to come. The build quality looks top notch.


Much cleaner and no leaks to be seen!

Also cleaned up a bunch of bits as they came off;



I'd offer the following advice to anyone doing this job:

1. Plusgas (or WD40) the captive nut bolts on each side of the radiator before you try and turn the bolts. The captive nuts are actually just 'press fit' into the metal and will spin if they encounter too much resistance. Mine were in good condition and the bolts came out OK.

2. The top small bolts that hold the AC condenser to the radiator are a complete buttock to get out. Use a universal joint and work slowly and carefully; the right one is especially hidden away.

3. Support the condenser with some wire or a couple of bungee cords - when the bolts are off it will just hang in space - bad news!!

4. When re-installing the rad, it's good to hang the rad on the side bolts but don't do them up tight (they are very long) which will allow you to swing the rad back a few CM's at the top to make bolting the condenser on that much easier.

5. If you are thinking of renewing your Automatic gearbox fluid - now's the time!

Chris...