1800: 1972 pv1800es

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

That's exactly why you want to have it examined by a reputable MOT tester. The car is about 50 years old, had little value for a long time and chances are may not have always been repaired to a good standard. A reputable MOT tester who knows classic cars will highlight that type of thing and you want to know about that sort of thing. Better to be safe than sorry.

... as I said above, we will have to agree to disagree on that issue :-)

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I think I recall that link to a thread from previously Dave (probably via yourself). I would have no particular faith in a MoT tester telling me anything I don't know already: the metalwork has all been some to a really high standard (far better than I could have done), the brakes and suspension are all new, the steering works fine, the electrics need some attention, the headlamps are probably pointing all over the place after I took everything apart to fix the missing wiring, the speedometer doesn't work and the door handles don't work properly.

Would the car pass a MoT at the mo? Of course not because of the speedometer, possibly the lights alignment and the door handles. We know what is wrong with the car - it is niff naff and trivia compared to the heavy shifting that the PO has already done.

As I said above, there would be no point wasting £50 to find out what I already know.

Alan

That thread i linked to Alan was only started at 1405 today.

The speedo would probably pass the MoT on the 1800 as thy're not tested i believe (i think newer cars are but not older) and if you can't get in and out of the car using the door handles, that is a fail - however you haven't mentioned anything about not being able to get in and out of either door so i'm guessing you can open and shut both?

The lights, yes if they don't work will fail and may need some alignment (particularly the left headlamp) but you can probably get them as near as using the time honured method of a cross of masking tape on the garage door in front of each headlight, back up 10 feet and then align them to be below by a few inches - the Haynes Book of Fantasy (HBoF) should give some measurements for this.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Nice to see some progress on the 1800 Alan and also to hear you've suggested 20W50 mineral oil for the next oil change. I might have been tempted to suggest 20W40 but given the apparently leaky nature of the engine, the 20W50 would probably be the better choice!

The dead panel lights that haven't been resurrected by exercising the panel dimmer probably need new bulbs........

I think so Dave - I checked up in the owner's manual and can see 20W50 is the heaviest recommended multigrade. I have had really good results with 20W50 mineral oil in the RB, so I think it makes sense for the P1800 as well.

You are probably right about the panel light bulbs - I was quite pleased that at least a few joined in after the rheostat had been exercised a few times. They are a bit dim, so what I may do when I get a mo is put a jumper over the rheostat so they get a full 12v and see what isn't working. I'm guessing from the feel of it that the rheostat is a carbon track type, so a bit of use may well improve matters.

The car is coming along quite nicely and there isn't anything much wrong with it. There is no rush about this project - it can be securely stored in a barn during the weeks I don't have time to work on it, but all the same I think we should have it working nicely by the end of the summer.

As you will know from the RB project, I think it is important to decide on the project's aim early on so as not to get carried away. I've discussed this with 'Janet' and we agree strongly she should not aim to be making the P1800 too good - otherwise it will be too good to use - like the TR6 she already has is. The aim will be to have a good, reliable historic car that can be driven to Waitrose and to the bingo (if that is where she wants to drive it). Delores Rocket will be like a prettier version of the RB.

Alan

[packers1712]

Alan you're more than welcome for the omega clip just sorry that the other ones I brought were too small!
Also adding to the MOT test and its validity debate I used to be an MOT tester in a previous life (20 years ago now so probably not that in touch with current testing guidelines!), but Dave is correct about the speedo it isn't a testable item the doors need to be able to be opened from inside and outside so definitely a fail!
Touching on the items in the inserted thread link regarding weld repairs to structural areas, the tester is only able to test what he or she can see without being allowed to remove any parts, so for instance if sills have been repaired as per the photos and presented for test they would most likely fail due to not being seem weld where a non original panel joint has been created, the plug/spot welded lower flange is acceptable though.
However if the car had been welded exactly the same but been presented all filled and painted so that the welds weren't visible that is a totally different story, the tester can only use the prescribed method for checking for excessive corrosion, a small plastic headed hammer, the car is no more safe but would likely not fail for the weld repairs being poor!
The test is floored but tell us something we don't already know.

Doug.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That thread i linked to Alan was only started at 1405 today.

The speedo would probably pass the MoT on the 1800 as thy're not tested i believe (i think newer cars are but not older) and if you can't get in and out of the car using the door handles, that is a fail - however you haven't mentioned anything about not being able to get in and out of either door so i'm guessing you can open and shut both?

The lights, yes if they don't work will fail and may need some alignment (particularly the left headlamp) but you can probably get them as near as using the time honured method of a cross of masking tape on the garage door in front of each headlight, back up 10 feet and then align them to be below by a few inches - the Haynes Book of Fantasy (HBoF) should give some measurements for this.

Many thanks Dave - you really are a fount of knowledge on Volvo cars!

It is strange, I thought I'd seen the car in that thread in these pages previously (about the quality of the welding) - I think that must be the dementia on my part!

I didn't know about the speedo passing a MoT - but I see no reason to try it when it still needs fixing anyway.

I thought I'd mentioned about the door handles and window winders all tending to fall off because the securing clips are all missing in one of the posts above? If not my apology - it will be down to the dementia again. I would not be happy with the car being used without being sure the door handles would not come off in one's hand! The doors close, the latches and locks work properly - it is just the handles and winders that aren't right. The driver's door handle works - but just needs a clip to secure. The passenger side handle will need either a replacement or a repair, which is why I've fixed the winder on that side so the window can be opened reliably and the door opened from the outside.

I'll get the headlamps more or less aligned (on the garage door - the way you say - I've dome that many times) when I next get a chance to work on the car.

This forum really is marvellous - I'm delighted that there is so much interest and really useful advice and comment being posted. Even if I don't agree with comments, they are all useful and very welcome indeed (I do make mistakes - and sometimes I even change my mind!).

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by packers1712

Touching on the items in the inserted thread link regarding weld repairs to structural areas, the tester is only able to test what he or she can see without being allowed to remove any parts, so for instance if sills have been repaired as per the photos and presented for test they would most likely fail due to not being seem weld where a non original panel joint has been created, the plug/spot welded lower flange is acceptable though.
However if the car had been welded exactly the same but been presented all filled and painted so that the welds weren't visible that is a totally different story, the tester can only use the prescribed method for checking for excessive corrosion, a small plastic headed hammer, the car is no more safe but would likely not fail for the weld repairs being poor!
The test is floored but tell us something we don't already know.

Doug.

Thanks for that Doug, i'm not going to add this next bit of info to my other thread yet but those repairs were done by the tester and passed as safe!

That's how i got the car back, 6 months after the "retest" and they wouldn't let me collect the car before then!

Your guess is as good as mine as to why but as you might guess, i'm seeking my money back via the card company i paid the bill with!

Now hopefully the relevance of me adding that link to Alans thread is clear, MoT testers aren't always the trustworthy beings we hope they are!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by packers1712

Alan you're more than welcome for the omega clip just sorry that the other ones I brought were too small!
Also adding to the MOT test and its validity debate I used to be an MOT tester in a previous life (20 years ago now so probably not that in touch with current testing guidelines!), but Dave is correct about the speedo it isn't a testable item the doors need to be able to be opened from inside and outside so definitely a fail!
Touching on the items in the inserted thread link regarding weld repairs to structural areas, the tester is only able to test what he or she can see without being allowed to remove any parts, so for instance if sills have been repaired as per the photos and presented for test they would most likely fail due to not being seem weld where a non original panel joint has been created, the plug/spot welded lower flange is acceptable though.
However if the car had been welded exactly the same but been presented all filled and painted so that the welds weren't visible that is a totally different story, the tester can only use the prescribed method for checking for excessive corrosion, a small plastic headed hammer, the car is no more safe but would likely not fail for the weld repairs being poor!
The test is floored but tell us something we don't already know.

Doug.

Many thanks Doug,
That is really appreciated - first hand experience is always the best sort - and rather confirms there would be no point submitting the car for a Mot test.
Thank you so much for the omega clip, not only have we identified what is needed, but I've also been able to guarantee at least one means of egress on each side of the car with it.
It was good to meet Mr Roberts and your family also :-)
As we discussed on Sunday - this forum is invaluable.
Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Thanks for that Doug, i'm not going to add this next bit of info to my other thread yet but those repairs were done by the tester and passed as safe!

That's how i got the car back, 6 months after the "retest" and they wouldn't let me collect the car before then!

Your guess is as good as mine as to why but as you might guess, i'm seeking my money back via the card company i paid the bill with!

Now hopefully the relevance of me adding that link to Alans thread is clear, MoT testers aren't always the trustworthy beings we hope they are!

My apology Dave - I scanned through the photos on your MoT testing thread and thought I'd seen them before on this forum, it must have been something similar I'd seen (I have a feeling in the 700 section) - either that or it really is the dementia!

I've read your new thread properly now, and agree those repairs are shocking - IMHO they should not have passed the MoT test.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

My apology Dave - I scanned through the photos on your MoT testing thread and thought I'd seen them before on this forum, it must have been something similar I'd seen (I have a feeling in the 700 section) - either that or it really is the dementia!

I've read your new thread properly now, and agree those repairs are shocking - IMHO they should not have passed the MoT test.

Alan

Thanks Alan, as i said to Doug further up the MoT tester himself did thos repairs and issued a pass certificate. I've literally done better welds with my eyes shut but i don't have a MIG and these days not really up to doing it myself.

Things are in hand to get it done properly once i get the chargeback though!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by powen1

Agree with derek,

When I looked at mine middle silencer is laying flat not twisted - I'm sure if you straighten that part the back will rise a bit near panhard Rod - I do have pics but couldn't attach to this reply sorry. sent email if you need them ?headlamp, check earth, speedo I took out the 90. degree bit and connected direct not sure of correct but works a treat :-)

Many thanks for your help - I think I'm on the right track now and this little chap (or the lack of it) is the prime suspect regarding the non-working speedometer:



... it will have to wait until next week - but I have a feeling this will be the answer :-)

This forum really is a fantastic resource - it might have taken me a lot longer to work this out on my own.

Alan