240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

That is exactly the issue: the buttons don't work, I've tried all the pulling out/pushing in combinations directed by the instruction book. Perhaps a bit of cleaning is required after all.

I've been thinking about this: it would seem most likely that the issue is a mechanical one with the 5 switches (LW/MW/FM/FM/FM) at the bottom - rather than an electrical one (which is good news). Late last eve I pulled all 5 out to the 'set' position and sprayed the area with some contact cleaner, I'll see if that makes any difference this morn. I way have to recourse to some disassembly, cleaning and lubricating as Steve suggests.

:-)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

I can see there are a couple of areas the same along the top of the screen Luke. I've pulled them up with an upholstery tool as you suggest, but I'm not sure that will be a long term fix. I wonder whether the screen has been re-fitted sometime? It is almost like it is fitted perhaps 3mm too low. Another possibility is that the recent hot weather may have softened the seal and the weight of the screen has allowed it to slip down a little.

Perhaps a thin bead of that black silicone you suggested for GAM previously under the edge of the seal might hold it in place, what do you think?

Afternote: I think this was the stuff I used previously (except this is clear rather than black - a good idea in this circumstance perhaps):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-S...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

If I took it to a windscreen fitting place they would want to fit the later, rubber seal without the stainless strip, which would be better weatherproofing but would spoil the Barge's good looks.

Alan

I followed Luke's advice and teased the driver's side corner back into place, that bit seems okay. The bit in the centre at the top of the screen has a similar issue and won't seem to stay in place:



... a bit of windscreen sag.

I would seem to have 2 options:

a. Get the screen taken out and re-fitted with a new seal. I rather suspect it would be hard to find someone to do it without breaking the window or the surround. Cost about £300 I should think.

b. Take Luke's advice and fill behind with a bead of Silkaflex (and use the IPA to clean off any excess - thank you for that Steve). Cost about £8.

... I think readers will be able to guess which option I'll be taking.

I'll have another look at the mechanical radio buttons today, but the radio/cassette isn't an urgent issue - the replacement mast won't be here until Tuesday at least (assuming the posties start doing their jobs again rather than standing round the brazier). I don't want to risk snapping off the nylon trace completely because it will be a bugger to get out.

I really enjoy this part of a new project: the RB and GAM were exactly the same. I get so much pleasure out of diagnosing problems and coming up with cheap but effective fixes. This forum proves its worth over and over again (like the Silkaflex and IPA suggestions in the above).

:-)

[Steve 940]

Hi Alan,

If you go for the Sikaflex type of repair on the screen, I'd suggest just doing a test with the IPA just to make sure it does clean off the mastic.

Put me in charge of a mastic gun, Results usually in a complete sticky mess.

I'd also suggest using 2" wide masking tape around the screen on both sides of the join, then you can use the specialised tool, i.e. - finger, to smooth the bead out. Then peel off tape and it should give you a neat finish.

Cheers
Steve

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Hi Alan,

If you go for the Sikaflex type of repair on the screen, I'd suggest just doing a test with the IPA just to make sure it does clean off the mastic.

Put me in charge of a mastic gun, Results usually in a complete sticky mess.

I'd also suggest using 2" wide masking tape around the screen on both sides of the join, then you can use the specialised tool, i.e. - finger, to smooth the bead out. Then peel off tape and it should give you a neat finish.

Cheers
Steve

Super duper.

:-)

[loki_the_glt]

Having been away from home all week - working in what is alleged to be God's own county - I've only just come back to and caught up on this thread.

If all the car's tyres are 175/70s they are incorrect for the car. A 1986 handbook lists 175 SR 14 (i.e 80-profile) for DL and GL saloons and 185/70 TR 14s for GLE and GLT saloons. 175/70s equate to 155/80 14s which would improve acceleration at the cost of top speed and fuel consumption.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt

Having been away from home all week - working in what is alleged to be God's own county - I've only just come back to and caught up on this thread.

If all the car's tyres are 175/70s they are incorrect for the car. A 1986 handbook lists 175 SR 14 (i.e 80-profile) for DL and GL saloons and 185/70 TR 14s for GLE and GLT saloons. 175/70s equate to 155/80 14s which would improve acceleration at the cost of top speed and fuel consumption.

You don't miss much Alf! You are dead right though, I have just checked inside the gas cap and the GLE should have 185/70R14 tyres. However - the tyres are all brand new (June this year), so I won't be changing them until they wear out (about 2032 - then I'll remember to buy 185/70 section tyres).

I've just done some calculations, a 185/70R14 tyre would have a rolling diameter of about 24.3", and a 175/70R14 would be 23.8" the difference is 2.3% lower gearing. I'll live with that ( and enjoy the rocket-ship acceleration!).

In the winter I'll run the motor car with the Pholus wheels and 185/65R15 tyres, which give a rolling diameter of 24.6" so slightly higher geared than standard by about 1%.

:-)

[360beast]

Wd40 is very good at cleaning up excess sikaflex.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 360beast

Wd40 is very good at cleaning up excess sikaflex.

I was planning to get the clear rather than black version Luke, so when I inevitably make a mess it won't show much.

:-)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Moomoo

Aye, Jakki’s could be well in the frame. I’m surprised the cassette REV button is a channel band changer.

If you get chance bud, ( yes I know what I’m asking), a few more pictures of the Barge would be well received!

The under engine panel, worth having? I’ve a birthday coming up and one would be preferable to the usual tat. Ungrateful bastard that I am !🤨

I've run out of things that I can sensibly do with the spares I have at the moment, and the postie won't bring any more until at least Tuesday next week, so I thought I might as well drop the Barge off the ramps. It will be easier to shift other cars and bike round over the long weekend that way.

I can't drive it on the road yet (SORN until Thursday), but here is a photo of the Barge sitting straight and level Andrew:



... it is very smart :-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

... I don't think this bit is correct.

:-)

It doesn't have a break-in patch lead to the aerial connector on the radio does?
Then what i said is correct. The aerial lead does NOT need to be connected to the radio for it to recieve transmissions from the BT-FM transmitter.