What exactly prevents the wheel from falling off?

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by simboc2004

My front nearside bearing became very noisy, with no play at all - until, suddenly, it did have play and needed urgent replacement. It's definitely a sign that all is not we'll with the bearing... And it's very annoyingly noisy. So much better with it replaced. The driver's side is still fine at 174,000 miles...

I think the passenger side bearings get more abuse than the driver's side. Especially when travelling on two lane roads and the inside lane is full of potholes or gulley drain grates that have sunk, so the wheel hits those bumps. I try to avoid those lanes, but the roads are a disgrace in general. Its hard to avoid them now.

[emtor]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I think the passenger side bearings get more abuse than the driver's side. Especially when travelling on two lane roads and the inside lane is full of potholes or gulley drain grates that have sunk, so the wheel hits those bumps. I try to avoid those lanes, but the roads are a disgrace in general. Its hard to avoid them now.

My passenger side bearing I think really got it last summer in Sweden when I hit a deep pot hole. New black tarmac and a black pot hole, hard to spot before it was too late.
Felt like the car almost came apart and the SRS light came on, must have given the wheel an enormous punch.

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by emtor

I removed mine a few days ago with a tool bought here in Norway which cost me quite a bit more than £70, and it removed the bearing just fine without damaging the tool.
I did cover the threaded rod with chainsaw oil and avoided using an impact wrench.
But I wouldn't count on that it would make it very far in a shop that does this job several times a week.

https://www.biltema.no/bil---mc/bilv...-mm-2000036602

That is basically the identical tool I bought for £70 but in a smaller box.

Here is an even cheaper version.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386426652...3ABFBMsPD_9aFk

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by ShadeTek

That is basically the identical tool I bought for £70 but in a smaller box.

Here is an even cheaper version.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386426652...3ABFBMsPD_9aFk

Hmm... That's a handy bit of kit to have. A garage charged me £90 labour to change the bearing on my car. The bearing itself (SKF) was about £60. I supplied the part.

So one wheel bearing change and that tool has paid for itself. Although, that tool is only for pressing the bearing in, not removing it. Removal is fun part, especially when you don't have a big press at your disposal to remove the old bearing from the hub. That's why I left it to a garage, as a press to remove the bearing isn't cheap to buy and its not something that would be used all the time either for the average DIY'er.

[ShadeTek]

As I said earlier, do not use this tool to remove the bearing from the knuckle. That will end really bad. Whack the bearing out with a very big sledge hammer.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by ShadeTek

As I said earlier, do not use this tool to remove the bearing from the knuckle. That will end really bad. Whack the bearing out with a very big sledge hammer.

Wouldn't a sledge damage the hub/knuckle? There's not much access to get a big sledge in. Are you removing the hub completely from the car and then whacking it out?

[emtor]

Originally Posted by ShadeTek

As I said earlier, do not use this tool to remove the bearing from the knuckle. That will end really bad. Whack the bearing out with a very big sledge hammer.

The user manual for my tool oddly enough describes removal of the bearing.
Also, the kit comes with the parts for removal.
But, I get the point,-if the bearing is stuck hard enough in the knuckle it could go bad if the threaded rod and the little rod bearing are not lubricated well.
Using an impact wrench may be tempting but not a good idea either.
One tip that I haven't tried is applying force until it does not seem to want to go any further and then give the rod a whack with a hammer to help loosen the bearing.
A Swedish Y/T-channel has used the same tool as mine for removal with four different cars.
That amounts to a total of eight bearings and the tool has held up fine so far.

[ShadeTek]

Ideally a bearing press along these lines below woud be ideal, but you would still need the half moon tool as it has a lip around it on the inner edge to push the bearing in beyond the knuckle face. If you are using the rotor mount to push the bearing in, it may damage the bearing races.



https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...press&_sacat=0

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Wouldn't a sledge damage the hub/knuckle? There's not much access to get a big sledge in. Are you removing the hub completely from the car and then whacking it out?

Yes, I took the knuckle off the strut and then sat it on 3 axle stands that were bound together by an aerolastics. I then borrowed my mate's large sledge hammer and after about 15 blows it worked it's way out. No visible damage tho the knuckle as they are strong and should withstand a lot of abuse. I have a bearing press kit and used some of those parts to sit on top of the old bearing and also some large random washers to protect those which all kept the sledgehammer from striking the knuckle.

When the bearing, which has been in the freezer overnight, goes into the heated up knuckle, you have to line it up level so it goes in straight and the keep observing while you tighten slowly. The bearing goes in in jerks and makes a definitve sound each time. Hopefully I will never have to another one of these again. If I do I might invest in a bearing press.

[emtor]

Yes, the half moon tool must be used.
Putting load on anywhere else than on the outer edge will not go well.
The Swedish Y/T-channel mentioned above had a nice trick to ensure the bearing goes in straight:
Do not turn on the "bolt" side of the threaded rod,-turn the big nut in the rear of the knuckle instead until the bearing has gone a little bit in, then proceed by turning the front end of the rod as per usual.
It's easier to keep it straight this way.
I agree,-I hope I never have to do this job again without a real hydraulic press.
My greatest fear is managing to get the bearing in too far not straight.
This can easily be done,-getting it out again to try again is not so easy.