Boost Pressure Sensor removal

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

Well I was hoping this wouldn’t be the case, it’s done 57k miles and runs on premium diesel. I was surprised when this fault first reared its head on Thursday. I since cleared it and it’s done 400 trouble free miles since but it came back up this morning. When the VEA engined v60 we had had this fault and the valve and cooler were properly blocked it came back near enough instantly. As it’s not really a common issue on 5 cylinder engines I was learning towards a sensor issue as many seem to have had. If the valve or cooler were blocked I’d expect it to return much sooner than 400 miles. I’m going to pull the map sensor out, that might give an indication as to how clean the intake is.

I’m going to investigate further with vida before taking it properly in bits. Many say getting the valve and cooler off is a pig of a job but I’ve yet to do one on a 5 cylinder. The VEA engine was a doddle.

It might not be the case, but its definitely a culprit as well as the MAP sensor. 57,000 miles is low, but it depends on what the 57,000 miles entailed. If it was mainly short journeys and not much motorway, that can play havoc with the EGR. Premium diesel is a bonus, but it can only do so much.

Getting to the EGR on the 5 cylinder is easy enough. Disconnect the MAF, lift the airbox out of the way and disconnect the pipe that goes to the throttle body and that's about it. The throttle body comes off easily and the EGR can be cleaned in situ if needs be. You've done it before, so you'll know its not a particularly clean job. Wear gloves and have plenty of old cloths handy.

[graphnic]

By way of an update, I managed to remove the sensor in situ and replace it. Judicious use of some very long 45 degree need-nose pliers and a flexi driver extension were enough.

Even though I couldn't get hold of the Bosch OEM part, the 'Intermotor' versions seems to function well. The 'requested boost' and 'actual boost' figures now read much closer in real time, with no signs - as yet - of the either the recurring error code, or occasional 'engine service required' dash warning.

Fingers crossed. Doing a 1k mile trip in the next couple of weeks so we'll see how it goes!

[GrahamBrown1]

Well incase this helps anyone in future, replacing the sensor in the intercooler has also cured my faults. A week has passed and it hasn’t returned. The EGR faults are to be taken with a pinch of salt. These engines rarely have egr issues and if you were firing the parts cannon you’d be seriously out of pocket! I opted for a genuine sensor via my local dealer with club discount. They keep one on the shelf which tells you they must often play up.

Fitting for me took about an hr from start to finish. Long extension and a long pick to help unclip the sensor. But awkward due to the trans cooler but nothing serious. I also had air box out. MPG has slightly increased as a result so good job all round.

[graphnic]

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

Well incase this helps anyone in future, replacing the sensor in the intercooler has also cured my faults. A week has passed and it hasn’t returned. The EGR faults are to be taken with a pinch of salt. These engines rarely have egr issues and if you were firing the parts cannon you’d be seriously out of pocket! I opted for a genuine sensor via my local dealer with club discount. They keep one on the shelf which tells you they must often play up.

Fitting for me took about an hr from start to finish. Long extension and a long pick to help unclip the sensor. But awkward due to the trans cooler but nothing serious. I also had air box out. MPG has slightly increased as a result so good job all round.

Glad to hear it's done the trick for you. We did a run up from the midlands to the west coast of Scotland after swapping it out, and nothing adverse to report so far - no errors. I was hoping to pick up a Bosch part, as the Volvo part is in-fact a Bosch part, but couldn't get one in time. The cheapo one is OK so far. MPG slightly better as you have found also.

[Mini35LE]

I need to do this job too. Would one of those Aldi inspection cameras make the job easier? My D4 163 Auto (187k miles) is throwing the P1407 code. Always run on V-Power. It’s had 1 intercooler pressure sensor previously but 100k miles ago. The MAP sensor in the air intake has supposedly been replaced 3x (2016, 2019 and 2020 (after a 33k mile interval) although the part number on it and it’s general appearance in comparison with the rest of the top of the engine suggests it’s the original 2012 item. Unless it’s new old stock and main agents just use the new part code for invoicing? Cars also had a new EGR complete back at 87k miles but then threw the same error code that caused the EGR to be replaced. And that happened on holiday abroad. The local main dealer garage replaced the MAP (supposedly) and car ran fine between 2016 and 2019.

[FreshAir]

Originally Posted by Mini35LE

I need to do this job too. Would one of those Aldi inspection cameras make the job easier? My D4 163 Auto (187k miles) is throwing the P1407 code. Always run on V-Power. It’s had 1 intercooler pressure sensor previously but 100k miles ago. The MAP sensor in the air intake has supposedly been replaced 3x (2016, 2019 and 2020 (after a 33k mile interval) although the part number on it and it’s general appearance in comparison with the rest of the top of the engine suggests it’s the original 2012 item. Unless it’s new old stock and main agents just use the new part code for invoicing? Cars also had a new EGR complete back at 87k miles but then threw the same error code that caused the EGR to be replaced. And that happened on holiday abroad. The local main dealer garage replaced the MAP (supposedly) and car ran fine between 2016 and 2019.

I've just changed the Boost Sensor. I had no issues but could see it was reading about 2psi lower than the other 2 pressure sensors.

Tools used:

T25 Torx screwdriver - just 'normal' no extensions or flexi ends needed.
Magnetic pickup (not essential - just helps avoid losing screw
Pliers to cut ty-wrap for MAF sensor cable
Torch so you can see what you are doing
8mm socket to release lower part of air filter housing clip

Procedure:
1. Remove engine cover
2. Unclip the MAF sensor and cut ty-wrap to air filter cover
3. Remove air filter (T25)
4. Lift lower filter away after releasing the one visible catch (push 8mm socket onto it)
5. Undue screw and remove from Boost sensor (Torch, T25 and magnetic pickup)
6. Remove sensor - wiggle and lift
7. Unclip electrical connector - remove old sensor - re-attach to new sensor
8. Push new sensor into place.
9. Used magnetic pickup to place screw back and left hand to remove from magnet
10. Do up screw etc.
11. Re-secure MAF sensor cable with ty-wrap.

Dead easy to do. No camera etc needed.

The 3 pressure sensors are all now with a few tenths of a PSI of each other using the Car Scanner app.

Cheap and quick enough to do as preventative maintenance. Mine is on 87,000 miles.

Engine cover was trickiest part - if anyone has bent over one of the catches, can make them a pain to remove. Just cut/twist broken 'legs' off after you get any damaged ones off.

[Mini35LE]

Originally Posted by FreshAir

I've just changed the Boost Sensor. I had no issues but could see it was reading about 2psi lower than the other 2 pressure sensors.

Tools used:

T25 Torx screwdriver - just 'normal' no extensions or flexi ends needed.
Magnetic pickup (not essential - just helps avoid losing screw
Pliers to cut ty-wrap for MAF sensor cable
Torch so you can see what you are doing
8mm socket to release lower part of air filter housing clip

Procedure:
1. Remove engine cover
2. Unclip the MAF sensor and cut ty-wrap to air filter cover
3. Remove air filter (T25)
4. Lift lower filter away after releasing the one visible catch (push 8mm socket onto it)
5. Undue screw and remove from Boost sensor (Torch, T25 and magnetic pickup)
6. Remove sensor - wiggle and lift
7. Unclip electrical connector - remove old sensor - re-attach to new sensor
8. Push new sensor into place.
9. Used magnetic pickup to place screw back and left hand to remove from magnet
10. Do up screw etc.
11. Re-secure MAF sensor cable with ty-wrap.

Dead easy to do. No camera etc needed.

The 3 pressure sensors are all now with a few tenths of a PSI of each other using the Car Scanner app.

Cheap and quick enough to do as preventative maintenance. Mine is on 87,000 miles.

Engine cover was trickiest part - if anyone has bent over one of the catches, can make them a pain to remove. Just cut/twist broken 'legs' off after you get any damaged ones off.

Yes, exactly as set out. Did the job 3 days ago but have refrained from posting in case it didn’t cure the fault. But 150 miles in and we might be looking good. Taking the air box off is a must. Did that and used a torch and all easy. Getting the sensor out and a replacement in took less than 5 minutes. Total job time was about 45 minutes including a tea break. Got the camera anyway and it was useful in as much as it had a magnetic pickup I could use as my normal one seems to have gone for a walk and I couldn’t be bothered to drive to Screwfix to get another one. Sensor (OE Bosch part) was £40.97 from my local motor factor. Volvo dealer was £153.60. Normally I’m an OEM fiend but frankly, sod that. If I have to replace it a “genuine” one every 3 years I’ll take my chances with a “pattern” part.

[Mini35LE]

And whoever at Volvo who signed off on using self tapping screws for the air box lid can consider themselves off my Christmas card list. Flipping stupid idea. Obvs my garage has not bothered to do the reverse turn of the screw to find the thread, so after 18 filter changes the threads in the bottom section are none existent. Wood screws are the quick but ugly fix. But why in gods name Volvo can’t use a simple spring steel u clamp like everyone else, is the question I’d like a sensible answer to.

[GrahamBrown1]

Originally Posted by Mini35LE

And whoever at Volvo who signed off on using self tapping screws for the air box lid can consider themselves off my Christmas card list. Flipping stupid idea. Obvs my garage has not bothered to do the reverse turn of the screw to find the thread, so after 18 filter changes the threads in the bottom section are none existent. Wood screws are the quick but ugly fix. But why in gods name Volvo can’t use a simple spring steel u clamp like everyone else, is the question I’d like a sensible answer to.

Chop the end off a small cable tie, pop it on the hole. Then screw the air box lid down with original screw. Will keep it right a bit longer.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Mini35LE

And whoever at Volvo who signed off on using self tapping screws for the air box lid can consider themselves off my Christmas card list. Flipping stupid idea. Obvs my garage has not bothered to do the reverse turn of the screw to find the thread, so after 18 filter changes the threads in the bottom section are none existent. Wood screws are the quick but ugly fix. But why in gods name Volvo can’t use a simple spring steel u clamp like everyone else, is the question I’d like a sensible answer to.

Its overtightening that often causes those screws to fail. There's no need to tighten them so much, but garages often do things at 100mph and ruin the threads.

I think Ford can be thanked for some of the cut corners, as they were involved in this era of Volvo. I do agree, better fasteners should have been used. Even some simple metal levered clips like Honda's have would be good. Just undo the clips on either side of the housing and pop the lid off. That would be better than screws in my opinion, but hey, it is what it is I guess.