Swapping out HU803 under seat Amp

[JJD1]

Is this possible ?

I know the

Pin B1 = LF (+) Green/Red
Pin B2 = LF (-) Green

Pin B5 = RF (+) Green/Red
Pin B6 = RF (-) Green

Etc and the centre speaker fires from the head unit .Would it be possible to swap the amp over and use a better amp and adjust the cabling to suit ? I have a nice small amp that I just know offers more power etc . Any ideas ?

[stuart bowes]

you can get convertor leads that do the work for you in terms of the audio inputs to the amp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201373730...wAAOSw3ydVg1W9

and then obviously yes you can always cut off the output plug and wire each one into your new amp outputs, that's always totally possible

personally though, and this is only my opinion I know, the door speakers in mine are more than powerful enough and that's not even amped (albeit I did replace the head unit which probably has a better built in amp than the original)

what mine was lacking was bass, and in that respect if mine is anything to go by you'll quickly hit the limit of what the door speakers are capable of.. it's cheaper and easier just to whack sub(s) in the boot, I put in a pair of 12's, switched on the crossover at 120hz and kept the normal door speakers, and it is deafeningly loud (in all honesty, totally stupid how loud it goes tbh) well balanced, no gaps in the frequency response and no distortion at all. I use an oscillator to go through the frequencies and get it all nice and levelled up.

then you can go round finding all the things that rattle (there are many)

----

if you do go ahead with amp changes ask around first about what other connectors are under there because you dont want to disturb them and cause unnecessary issues

[JJD1]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

you can get convertor leads that do the work for you in terms of the audio inputs to the amp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201373730...wAAOSw3ydVg1W9

and then obviously yes you can always cut off the output plug and wire each one into your new amp outputs, that's always totally possible

personally though, and this is only my opinion I know, the door speakers in mine are more than powerful enough and that's not even amped (albeit I did replace the head unit which probably has a better built in amp than the original)

what mine was lacking was bass, and in that respect if mine is anything to go by you'll quickly hit the limit of what the door speakers are capable of.. it's cheaper and easier just to whack sub(s) in the boot, I put in a pair of 12's, switched on the crossover at 120hz and kept the normal door speakers, and it is deafeningly loud (in all honesty, totally stupid how loud it goes tbh) well balanced, no gaps in the frequency response and no distortion at all. I use an oscillator to go through the frequencies and get it all nice and levelled up.

then you can go round finding all the things that rattle (there are many)

----

if you do go ahead with amp changes ask around first about what other connectors are under there because you dont want to disturb them and cause unnecessary issues

No way do I want subs etc . But I have some excellent Morel components and a nice old but amazing Calibre Amp. Ive used them together and they are very "SQ" . I would add some damping to the doors and build some MDF type speaker rings to mount them. 6.5 inch comps with a good clean 80 watts can provide enough "Kick bass" for me . I want to keep every square inch free for luggage etc

[Missing Lincs]

Originally Posted by JJD1

I want to keep every square inch free for luggage etc

Why not fit a factory sub then, it goes under the floor.

I second what Stuart says about factory speakers and adding bass, it works.

If you go down the route of changing door speakers be careful of the depth, the doors are quite deep but not much room between the door card and window mechanism.

[stuart bowes]

I guess if you already have the speakers and amp then fair enough, that negates the cost consideration doesn't it

the only issue you'll have then which isn't a huge drama, is making some sort of braket to fix the amp under the seat so that it's not getting hot, or sitting on the floor where it might get wet

regarding space though, I would add with a bit of fore-thought of design it can be surprising how little room subs can take up, I still have like 85-90% of my boot space, and the box is actually slightly larger then specified for those speakers, because I designed it for a pair of fosgates that I never got around to buying, but still might do yet

anyway I digress, the main thing is to design it such that it can be pulled out quick and easy, mine is full width of the boot and looks fixed in but actually comes out in 10mins, easy as anything

horses for courses I suppose

[JJD1]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

I guess if you already have the speakers and amp then fair enough, that negates the cost consideration doesn't it

the only issue you'll have then which isn't a huge drama, is making some sort of braket to fix the amp under the seat so that it's not getting hot, or sitting on the floor where it might get wet

regarding space though, I would add with a bit of fore-thought of design it can be surprising how little room subs can take up, I still have like 85-90% of my boot space, and the box is actually slightly larger then specified for those speakers, because I designed it for a pair of fosgates that I never got around to buying, but still might do yet

anyway I digress, the main thing is to design it such that it can be pulled out quick and easy, mine is full width of the boot and looks fixed in but actually comes out in 10mins, easy as anything

horses for courses I suppose

I use to love installing high end gear.But now I am a older cranky bugger who just like the stock look of things but still have a good ear ! At rather loud levels its always the highs and mids that annoy me if they are not good . I have a soft spot for silk tweeters etc . The Morels alone well installed and a good amp behind them will be a Major sound difference . Even probably enough "kick type bass" . I dont need huge amounts of lower frqs to rattle my head !. Ive seen a nice Focal sub that sits under the seat in 911 and yes it was great .But the door speakers where DLS coax's .And the blend together just worked, Not super loud ,But you would not get annoyed after a couple of hours etc

[stuart bowes]

I had a bit of spare time after the kids finally went to sleep and I did some browing in VIDA

turns out, Volvo did 3 different types of main door speakers (ignoring the little tweeters that I'm never really convinced actually do anything of significant value lol)

40w 8ohm
Front 9459548
Rear 9472003

50w 8ohm
Front 9459550
Rear 9472008

100w 8ohm (the 'premiums')
Front 3533967
Rear 3533907

now yours are 80w which seems less powerful the the best volvo offering.. but if they are 4ohm and the amp supports that, then obviously you'll get more power straight away

my head unit puts out 55w at 4ohm, but I don't have the top range speakers so unless my understanding has gone well out the window I'm getting 20-25w per speaker at 8ohms (although i still maintain, it's more than enough with the crossover saving them from cracking up at low frequencies)

If I was to stick in some 4ohm speakers (Say 60w to be on the safe side) I would double my power straight away just off the head unit, although I honestly shudder to think how deaf I would end up lol

that said, I am now browsing car audio sites looking at specs... 6" you say.. hmmm http://caraudiosecurity.com/punch-p1...ponent-speaker .. no. stop it

[JJD1]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

I had a bit of spare time after the kids finally went to sleep and I did some browing in VIDA

turns out, Volvo did 3 different types of main door speakers (ignoring the little tweeters that I'm never really convinced actually do anything of significant value lol)

40w 8ohm
Front 9459548
Rear 9472003

50w 8ohm
Front 9459550
Rear 9472008

100w 8ohm (the 'premiums')
Front 3533967
Rear 3533907

now yours are 80w which seems less powerful the the best volvo offering.. but if they are 4ohm and the amp supports that, then obviously you'll get more power straight away

my head unit puts out 55w at 4ohm, but I don't have the top range speakers so unless my understanding has gone well out the window I'm getting 20-25w per speaker at 8ohms (although i still maintain, it's more than enough with the crossover saving them from cracking up at low frequencies)

If I was to stick in some 4ohm speakers (Say 60w to be on the safe side) I would double my power straight away just off the head unit, although I honestly shudder to think how deaf I would end up lol

that said, I am now browsing car audio sites looking at specs... 6" you say.. hmmm http://caraudiosecurity.com/punch-p1...ponent-speaker .. no. stop it

I would seriously look at VIBE .British company that I underestimated years ago. Now I am very impressed with them.

[stuart bowes]

my subs are Vibe, picked them up £50 the pair second hand off a mate

originally just a stop-gap until I bought better ones but actually yeah they're pretty decent

[Davey J]

There are also two different under seat amps. The normal ones and the premiums. One has a yellow sticker. The other is blue…….