Petrol pump advice please

[woolfie1948]

Interesting point Jimmy about the fuel filter.
I did have a large plastic one fitted and did not notice until after the engine was running again that it's inlet pipe had a bend in it, however everything was working ok by then so it can't have been too much of a restriction.
I changed it for a spare I had that is much smaller and the fuel pipes slide further on so it can't bend in the same place again.
I had been considering a metal and glass one but just not got round to ordering one, maybe a good idea though.

Maybe a bit off subject but I would be interested to hear other's experiences as I feel spares quality seems to be becoming a problem. When it first would not start, as it is damp in my garage, I looked inside the dizzy cap for condensation and found the central electrode had worn away completely. This was fitted about a year ago to replace one that I put a screwdriver right through it's side when I used it to flick a catch open that was a bit stiff. I had a similar wear problem with the heel of the points on my other car, and now a bendy inlet pipe on the fuel filter. Unlucky or do I need to be more careful where I buy?
HNY

[arcturus]

Just another point to consider, did you fit the correct size fuel hose? There is 6mm & 8mm. The 8 will fit and pinch up with a jubilee clip but will weep fuel. The 6 is the right one and is a very tight push on fit. Do you get a strong smell of fuel when you open the bonnet?

[woolfie1948]

Thanks again George - the pipe from pump to carbs is actually marked 1/4" along it's length and there is no smell of petrol.
I could see fuel in the new clear plastic filter this morning and engine started as normal, easily, max two seconds turning over.
I am thinking the pump is fine for normal use but cannot cope and needs priming when dry after being left long enough for fuel to evaporate from it and the pipe and carbs. This is rare, but I shall be looking at various hand or electric pumps or maybe syphons to have to hand for a quick easy fix should it happen again.

[arcturus]

Pump shouldn't run dry over a few weeks unless there is a leak. Check gaskets
http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...e&artno=276281
Might be less from UK source.

[woolfie1948]

I have no idea George how long it should take for the fuel to evaporate but assuming you are correct I don't think the problem would be in the pump as it was new from Brookhouse Dec. 2011.The flexible pipe from the metal one to the pump (8mm) and from the pump to the carbs (1/4" =6mm) were replaced at the same time, while the carbs were recon the previous year.
If there is a leak I guess it is in the metal pipe going back towards the tank. Nothing was noticed when on the ramp for MOT last Nov. but I will have another look underneath when the weather gets better as it does not seem to be causing me an immediate problem, but I have ordered a little hand priming pump just in case.
The previous owner put in a new tank in 2009 so that should be OK.
Thanks for your input.

[Derek UK]

Evaporation has been mentioned and modern fuel is much more prone to that. Worse still is that it doesn't take long for it to lose most of its volatiles while it sits in your tank. If it's more than a couple of months old it won't have much left of the stuff that helps give you "easy starting". Unfortunately most classics just sit around over the winter months with the fuel getting less and less like petrol. If your car is in a nice warm garage you are lucky but left in the cold with damp air condensing on the electrics you get another barrier to that easy start. Spraying the cap and leads with WD-40 and wiping the inside of the cap with the same will help. Check your points gap while you're there.
With good fuel and a good battery it should start even if it does take some time to get fuel from the tank to the carbs. Run it up every few days if it's garaged close by. 5 minutes after the temp gauge has come up is enough for this exercise.
If you want to try something, fit one of these just after the pump. It may work for you.
http://www.thornycroftparts.co.uk/in...id=422910&gs=2

[woolfie1948]

The garage is not attached to the house and has no heating so far from warm, everything out there feels very damp. The car last had some fuel put in just over two months ago however it now runs well and started easily once there was some in the carb, wd40 etc. was not required.
I am confident therefore that the problem is probably evaporation, as if it is only fuel running back to the tank I would expect what was left in the carbs to momentarily fire, like it does when the first few drops make it up the pipe, before a proper flow is established.
Thanks Derek for the input and the link.
I like the idea of a non return valve, it can only help, but it would have to go before the pump due to the size of the pipes.
Coincidence, but I have just ordered a 'fuel primer bulb pump' from this same company to keep to hand, so if it happens again it is quick and easy to put it in place of the inline filter and sqeeze - I can do without another taste of unleaded!

[Derek UK]

The bulb pump has a non return valve in it so that will do the same job. I think that could be left in place permanently as long as the rubber can live with ethanol based fuel. Thornycroft should be able to advise. Good luck.
The WD-40 treatment won't do any harm. Before doing it, run the engine in complete darkness to see if there is any stray sparking around the cap and plug wires. There's often quite a display. The WD will stop that.