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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Leaky water pumpViews : 2114 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 26th, 2012, 14:36 | #1 |
Master Member
Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
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Location: Bristol
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Leaky water pump
Hi There
Whilst looking round the engine bay, noticed that in the last 2 months I’ve lost about 2 inches of coolant from the expansion tank. I checked all the various hoses and they aren’t leaking BUT did notice a slight leak from the water pump. To remove, clean, service and replace seems quite straight-forward. However, the Haynes manual makes no mention of the metal rigid pipes that carry the heater coolant. They seem to be attached to a bracket that is bolted to the block. So, drain and remove rad, slacken pulley, 4 bolts off the pump, move down and out, remove fan, clean and replace seals and carry out reverse???? 2 questions – any tips and can I buy just the seals / gasket? If the pump is serviceable?? Thanks alot |
Apr 26th, 2012, 21:40 | #2 |
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Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 22:25
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Location: Otley
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Hi Billy, Just put one on my B18 and it was pretty simple.
Drain the rad and remove it. Take the fan off and pully behind it. I undid the top left bolt on the pump first that also held the small metal heater hose in place. Give it a tug and it should pull out. Then I took the other 3 bolts out and the bolt holding the metal pipe to the block. It should then all come off. You can pull the metal pipe out now but it might need a bit of tapping. I was going to just replace seals but when I saw the pump insides I thought a new unit at £30 was worth it. It comes with all the seals and gasket too. The 2 wide seals go on top of the pump and dont forget the seals on the metal pipes. New gasket on and it should go back together OK. Good Luck! |
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Apr 27th, 2012, 06:06 | #3 |
VOC Member
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I agree. Unless you know that your pump is fairly recent, it makes sense to fit a new one as preventative maintenance.
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Apr 30th, 2012, 13:27 | #4 | |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
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Quote:
Is it fiddley getting the larger seals to sit right on the block? Cheers |
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Apr 30th, 2012, 23:07 | #5 |
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Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 22:25
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Yeah the 2 wide ones go on top of the pump and sit against the head and the other 2 go on the pipes which push into the pump housing.
I put the gasket onthe back of the pump with some sealent, put the pump in position and put a screwdriver in one of the lower 2 bolt holes to lift the pump up so the holes aligned with the ones on the block. |
Apr 30th, 2012, 23:19 | #6 |
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You can also get the pump on with the bolts just snug and then push the pump up against the head using a short length of 4 x 2 and a jack. Make sure it pushes up square then tighten the bolts fully. Make sure the head surface is clean so that the seal is good. The seal ring sometimes distorts/collapses so don't go crazy when you use the jack.
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May 1st, 2012, 08:35 | #7 |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
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Thanks chaps – is the idea of the screwdriver / jack and timber, to help with the sheer weight and awkward angle of the pump with the fan too?
And a sealant to keep the gasket in place – Hylomar?? This is great advice thanks again – Haynes isn’t so hot on detail I’m finding…. |
May 13th, 2012, 04:26 | #8 |
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Last Online: Jun 26th, 2022 22:30
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Location: Seattle/Tacoma
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Just picked up a leaky water pump 164. Trying to get my head around this.
Probably be easier once I pull the pump? I do get with the car a FSM. Does need to be towed as it leaks too much to risk driving. Love to see some pics.
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May 16th, 2012, 19:05 | #9 |
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As you may have already realised the B30 pump is different to the B18/20 one. I don't think the different bolt pattern makes much difference when fitted but am happy to be corrected on that.
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May 16th, 2012, 19:12 | #10 |
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Got it home last night. Late enough I did not look anything over.
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