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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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NJGB Joining the 164 Family - Intro and Few QuestionsViews : 2595 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2011, 18:39 | #11 |
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Last Online: Jul 7th, 2012 16:01
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mountains of New Jersey
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Thanks for the welcome and input!
I really appreiciate the information given so far, very helpful and good to know there's a support base for these cars. I am arranging shipping now and hope to have it home buy the second week of July. I will certainly do a few minor repairs to get it on the road, keeping everything as is for the summer. Over the fall/winter I will look into sourcing some better manifolds and carbs. Do the Stromburgs and HUs all fit onto the stock carb manifold? I have seen others that come with 3 smaller manifolds as well. Links to any carb setups or more info on the manifolds would be great. I still have to decide how far I want to get into the car, I'd love to do a full restoration but I have limited time with work the way it is. I might just try to make the most of it while it's in decent shape, maybe treat the rust and hope for the best. We'll know more once it's home and I get to drive it around. Thanks again! NJGB |
Jun 27th, 2011, 19:09 | #12 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 11:39
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Worcestershire
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Strombergs and SU's won't fit on your manifold as they are designed to be positioned with the venturi's (roughly) horizontally, your manifold would put them vertically and using an adapter would give you clearance issues with the bonnet.
I think any standard manifold for the 2 carb setup will fit, i'm using a manifold from an early B30 engine on a late TE head and have had no problem. I'd second John H's suggestion of removing the wings to see the bonnet hinge mounts, pictures of my 142 confirm how bad they can be without any real outward signs!! |
Jun 27th, 2011, 23:13 | #13 |
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Last Online: Jul 7th, 2012 16:01
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mountains of New Jersey
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Starting to make more sense as I read more and more.
So if I found a standard carbed manifold I should be able to bolt up a pair of either Stromberg or SU? or is the standard manifold for a single carb? Or if I found a sidedraft 3 carb manifold they would fit then? I will find some pictures of what I am talking about and then maybe we can hash out what will fit, what's availible and what's worthwhile. |
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Jun 28th, 2011, 06:46 | #14 |
VOC Member
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But try it out with the existing carbs before you buy new parts. You might be lucky and find that it works fine!
John |
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Jun 28th, 2011, 06:49 | #15 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 11:39
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Worcestershire
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Standard manifold is a twin carb originally for Stromberg CD175's and as far as i know will take either carb, the triple sidedraught originally has SU's, (not sure if they were HS6 or HS4's) but again will probably take either. Both carb types were fitted to many different cars, so if you buy them separately you may find the needles/jets need to be replaced with the ones suitable for the B30 engine.
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Jul 15th, 2011, 00:24 | #16 |
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Last Online: Apr 28th, 2022 14:29
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Stroud
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Personally, I would leave things mechanically as they are- you may find your triple carb set up provides more power than the twin Strombergs common on 164s. I think an auto box is a must on a 164- it ain't a sports car and I'm told the 400/410 gearbox is notchy at best. If I was to change the gearbox it would be for a 4 speed Borg Warner from a later vehicle.
In terms of the bodywork I would start by checking the spare wheel wells and front valance- these areas are the worst 'rot spots' on 164s. The front of the rear arches can also get bad. Try and get the car up and running ASAP though and worry about the more cosmetic bodywork topside later- working on a car which is rolling is always more heartening! Jimmy |
Jul 15th, 2011, 07:01 | #17 | |||
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Quote:
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The 3 speed auto, on the other hand, has too few ratios, leaving the car revving too high at modern motorway cruising speeds. Plus the old-tech torque converter (with no lock-up) is very inefficient. I converted my 1974 164E from auto to manual and, with no other mods, it felt as though it had gained 30-40% more power and fuel economy was significantly improved. I do agree that swapping in a later 4 speed lock-up auto box would be a nice modification if you want to stay auto. A bellhousing adapotor kit is available for this - I think from the Netherlands. If you're interested in that, let me know and I'll try to find the link. Quote:
Let us know how you're getting on with it ! Cheers John |
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Jul 23rd, 2011, 22:06 | #18 |
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Last Online: Apr 28th, 2022 14:29
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Stroud
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John, the old Auto versus manual argument appears again! I have not driven a manual 164 so I'm not able to personally comment, I have however been told by others that they find the M400/410 to be a crude gearbox. I have also found my automatic car to be capable of happily cruising at 70mph and more..... I have found it a pleasure to drive in London too; on the occasions I've been stuck in traffic the auto is a great boon. Id very much like to try a manual car to see! Perhaps a 164 owners poll is needed! Jimmy
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Jul 24th, 2011, 00:11 | #19 | |
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You're welcome to try mine, but it'll be a year or two before it's finished and back on the road. The M410 164 crusies very happily at 100mph; 4000rpm in overdrive top. John |
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