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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Looking at 144s Good buy?Views : 5151 Replies : 46Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 30th, 2010, 16:37 | #41 |
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An easy and safe method to remove this type of windshield is to cut at least 60 3x4 pieces of thin steel plate, like 1 mm, and wedge these between the metal and the rubber from the inside, all the way around (won't work at the big wide bottom edge, leave that).
Starting from the top corners, push the glass out with your feet. The glass will slide out with no effort at all. The big vacuum handles that glass fitters use are nice to have. |
Oct 30th, 2010, 19:52 | #42 | |
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Quote:
Now if this is the case then the trim is fastened down onto the clips which are embedded in the goop used to bond the screen in place and is, in fact, cosmetic, the weather sealing of the screen being handled by the aforementioned goop; what's your opinion? Hth, C.A. |
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Oct 30th, 2010, 22:30 | #43 |
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For the 140 there are at least 2 different windshields, one in rubber with trim held by the rubber too, and one bonded with the trim on steel spring clips that are in the window sill (rust prone). This was carried over to the 240. Later the 240 got the separate 'one piece' trim that is attached on to plastic clips that hook around the windshield (neat solution).
This 240 trim is also found on 140's, probably updated with windshield replacement, leakage problems, etc. I've got one of those on my 144, the trim looks exactly like the 'in rubber' trim, same width, material (I think it's anodized aluminium) and center linking clip. Rear window has always been in rubber on the 140 and 240 sedan. I think arcturus' car still has the original windshield in rubber. Should ask him really. Look at the pictures of the steering wheel, you can see the thick rubber at the bottom of the windshield. Bonded screens have a plastic cover there. His car really is a peach. It looks like it survived effortlessly. By the way, I would solve the leakage with some sort of rubber/tar caulk, like the original (which has hardened and shrunk by now). I use the stuff made to stop leaks in roofs, rubberized asfalt. Fill up a big syringe (no needle) and fill the empty spaces under the rubber untill it flows out. Don't use silicone on cars. Last edited by marcmarel; Oct 30th, 2010 at 22:47. |
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Oct 31st, 2010, 08:57 | #44 |
arcturus
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Hi, the screen is definitley non bonded. The reason I will be removing it is that previous attempts to stop the leaking have left the interior side quite messy. Also as I am having a complete respray it will be a chance to examine the framework for corrosion. I will probably do the same with the rear window. I'm willing to take the chance of a new screen. BTW the car is a peach excelent mechanichal condition. The previous owner was a member of the Portuguese vetern volvo club and looked after it. Lots of new parts, Konis for example,bags of power.Its too easy to make the back step out on roundabouts!(not that I want to)
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Nov 2nd, 2010, 08:43 | #45 |
arcturus
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BTW. My 20B engine has the "fixed" fan. Would it be any problem to convert to viscous whilst the engine is out? Don't want to mess about with electric. Another thing, there's no sound insulation on the underside of the hood, was that normal?
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Nov 6th, 2010, 14:02 | #46 |
arcturus
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Work in progress
Well, it's looking a bit sorry for it'self. things allways look worse before they get better!
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