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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2028167 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 27th, 2022, 11:32 | #3271 | ||
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Useful bud!👍🤔😁
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Aug 27th, 2022, 11:35 | #3272 | |
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I’ll say it again, the coffin nose is the most handsome. That , is a nice example.❤️
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Aug 27th, 2022, 13:00 | #3273 | |
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... easily £16 worth of wonderfulness. The oil change can wait until the Barge is on some ramps again next week. I had a look at the constant temperature device - it didn't seem to move with a blast from the hot air gun and was fixed in the hot air position. This means that the motor car has been breathing through the bendy pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold only - perhaps that is why someone removed the bracket onto the exhaust some time in the past? Anyway, that rather made up my mind to delete the constant air device, I don't really think we need it here in the UK so it was probably doing more harm than good. I wound the adjuster so the valve now sits permanently with the front air intake open and the hot pipe closed. I think that will be healthier for the motor. When I'm next under the motor car I'll remove the bendy pipe and find something to bung the hot air vent to stop creepy-crawlies getting in. A few baby steps forward. Alan
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Aug 27th, 2022, 13:08 | #3274 | |
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As for 5W30 oil, are you changing the oil in one of your moderns? The Barge needs at least 10W40 (preferably semi-synthetic) or maybe even 20W50, 5W30 might be alright in Sweden during the winter but even during our winters is a bit on the thin side. The wheel nuts are a vast (nd much needed!) improvement!
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Aug 27th, 2022, 13:12 | #3275 | |
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Alan
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Aug 27th, 2022, 13:30 | #3276 | |
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I either have to fix it (buy the bracket for the exhaust and sort the thermostatic valve (I do have a spare one that came with the B230 motor)) or delete (in this case disable) it. My decision has been to disable the thermostatic valve because I think that will suit our climate best. It will not do any good to wind open a valve that does not operate. The wheel nuts really set off the wheels - as you say a good improvement. I've put the open ended ones back with the Pholus wheels (which I'm glad I kept) for the winter. :-)
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Aug 27th, 2022, 14:15 | #3277 | |
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... the 15" wheels fill the wheel arches quite nicely. Alan
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Aug 27th, 2022, 14:23 | #3278 | |
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patch_cable It explains the concept of a patch lead but to give a better explanation of the break-in (and it's borther, the break-out) patch leads, essentially it's an extension lead with a parallel attachment. The break-out lead (or sometimes board) is used heavily in diagnostics as they frequently come with a diagnostics port so the original component/PCB can remain plugged in but further out than normal and diagnostics can be performed. A break-in lead is similar but adds a component, in this case the BT-Fm transmitter. Essentially it would be a female aerial socket, a male aerial plug and in between, the BT-FM transmitter. In that respect it would more correctly be known as an FM Modulator : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142458220087 I have also proved the function of the BT-FM transmitter and that it doesn't need the aerial lead plugged into the radio to be able to transmit to the radio, both in cars and indoors on my hi-fi. I have one device similar to yours plugged into a USB adaptor and located next to my hi-fi, i send music videos on YT from my PC to the BT-FM transmitter so i can her them through the hi-fi which gives considerably better sound than the PC speakers, even though they're allegedly Harman. The point of an aerial on a car radio is because you're quite a distance from the transmitter and moving around. Relatively speaking, the BT-FM transmitter is very close and doesn't move as it is always 6-12" from the radio. As such, it doesn't need to be a powerful transmitter nor does it need an aerial for the reciever to get the signal, the FM front end simply tunes to that signal, locks onto it and produces the sound from the speakers. These have all but made the FM Modulator devices extinct as they're smaller, cheaper, faster to install and transferable to another car or even your home. I haven't misunderstood the situation with the constant temperature intake system Alan, just hinting you may need (or want) to give the carb some warmer air during winter. How you go about that is entirely up to you, whether you reinstate the original heat duct on the exhaust manifold or just use the corrugated aluminium tubing to draw warm air from the manifold area is up to you. You may be fine and the thermostatic control on the carb may well function well enough to prevent driveability problems but the possibility of carb icing will still exist.
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Aug 27th, 2022, 14:34 | #3279 |
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Well Butch!🦍
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Aug 27th, 2022, 14:47 | #3280 |
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I may need to have the windows tinted quite dark for the winter Andrew.
:-)
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