Torque converter symptoms?

[Casheye]

[QUOTE=Estate87;2606002]

Originally Posted by Casheye

Do you mean it hangs in a lower gear beyond the rev point at which you would expect it to shift up?

Does it change up if you take your foot off the go pedal for a moment and then put your foot back on it?

Do you also have hard gear changes?

If so, the first thing I'd check is the amount of oil in the gearbox. I had similar symptoms of a box that had been over filled.[/QUOTE

That's exactly what I mean. It sounds like once the oil/filter has been replaced it'll stop fingers crossed. I performed the stall test and it wouldn't rev above about 2k rpm. Does that sound right?

Cheers

Let the engine warm up and check the box oil level. If it's over filled then siphon some out and check again. Repeat until you're satisfied that you have the correct amount in there. Then test the car again and see if the problem persists. This procedure shouldn't cost you a thing and i'd do it before you get the oil changed. If your garage put in what they pump out, you'll still have an over full box albiet with new juice.

If of course, your levels are fine, I'd move onto the fluid change.

[Estate87]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

First, don't have a flushing change done on the gearbox ATF - not at that mileage when it appears to have never been changed! It's likely to blow the seals internally.

Instead, if you're having a garage do it, get them to do a "sump-dump" change - drain the contents of the gearbox sump, refit the drain plug and then top up with fresh fluid to the correct level.

Repeat at monthly intervals until the fluid stays clean. Usually 3-4 of these -art-changes does it.

You'll have the AW30/40 or 30/43 box in it, if it's the 40 the stall speed is 2700rpm and if it's the 43, stall speed is 2100rpm. Out of all the boxes fitted to the 7/9xx cars (and the V70 is a development of them) most are about 2100rpm stall speed - pg 101 shows this on this pdf :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Oddly couldn't find a listing for the B6304S, i know they ade one so maybe i need to find another Data Pocket that lists it.

I've just typed all this and realised you said V70 - that's the FWD jobby isn't it?

I'll try to find more specific data on the box you're likely to have and data on it. The sump-dump advice still stands though.

No its a V90. Not a V70.

[Estate87]

[QUOTE=Casheye;2606058]

Originally Posted by Estate87

Let the engine warm up and check the box oil level. If it's over filled then siphon some out and check again. Repeat until you're satisfied that you have the correct amount in there. Then test the car again and see if the problem persists. This procedure shouldn't cost you a thing and i'd do it before you get the oil changed. If your garage put in what they pump out, you'll still have an over full box albiet with new juice.

If of course, your levels are fine, I'd move onto the fluid change.

Do you check the level with the engine running?

Cheers

[Estate87]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

First, don't have a flushing change done on the gearbox ATF - not at that mileage when it appears to have never been changed! It's likely to blow the seals internally.

Instead, if you're having a garage do it, get them to do a "sump-dump" change - drain the contents of the gearbox sump, refit the drain plug and then top up with fresh fluid to the correct level.

Repeat at monthly intervals until the fluid stays clean. Usually 3-4 of these -art-changes does it.

You'll have the AW30/40 or 30/43 box in it, if it's the 40 the stall speed is 2700rpm and if it's the 43, stall speed is 2100rpm. Out of all the boxes fitted to the 7/9xx cars (and the V70 is a development of them) most are about 2100rpm stall speed - pg 101 shows this on this pdf :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Oddly couldn't find a listing for the B6304S, i know they ade one so maybe i need to find another Data Pocket that lists it.

I've just typed all this and realised you said V70 - that's the FWD jobby isn't it?

I'll try to find more specific data on the box you're likely to have and data on it. The sump-dump advice still stands though.

What sort of mileage does the box oil need to be changed at if it's never been changed before?

I've been told that the box has got a paper type filter in it. Surely that'll be close to breaking down by now?

In fairness I don't think the garage is going to flush it but they'll be removing the sumo to change the filter then replacing the oil.

They're an auto box specialist and they've not mentioned anything about potential problems or anything?

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Estate87

No its a V90. Not a V70.

In that case, i've already supplied the right data as far as i know. Might also pay to pull the codes from the gearbox ECU and reset the ECU, especially once 3-4 part-changes of ATF have been done.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Estate87

What sort of mileage does the box oil need to be changed at if it's never been changed before?

I've been told that the box has got a paper type filter in it. Surely that'll be close to breaking down by now?

In fairness I don't think the garage is going to flush it but they'll be removing the sumo to change the filter then replacing the oil.

They're an auto box specialist and they've not mentioned anything about potential problems or anything?

Cheers

In general, it should be changed every 24k, however it seems Volvo recommend that it's changed every 20k :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...ceSchedule.pdf

If they're an auto transmission specilist and they're removing the sump and replacing the filter, that should help a lot.

I doubt they'd mention potential problems, after all, that's likely to scare potential customers away. Hopefully the basic transmission service it sounds like you're having will put things right.

[Estate87]

Thank you very much for all the info people. Very much appreciated. 😁👍🏻

[Casheye]

[QUOTE=Estate87;2606063]

Originally Posted by Casheye

Do you check the level with the engine running?

Cheers

You can if you want, but i'd at least pop it in Park first

But to warm it up take it for a drive until the engine comes up to temp. You ideally want to shift though all the gears before you check the level. Or so I've been told. It'll be pretty obvious though if it is over filled.

[Laird Scooby]

[QUOTE=Casheye;2606278]

Originally Posted by Estate87

You can if you want, but i'd at least pop it in Park first

But to warm it up take it for a drive until the engine comes up to temp. You ideally want to shift though all the gears before you check the level. Or so I've been told. It'll be pretty obvious though if it is over filled.

Spot on, at idle in P or N, once hot (after 6-8 miles drive) it should be between the markings on the HOT side of the dipstick.

If it's overfilled, it can cause foaming of the fluid and result in cavitation which can also give the effect of torque converter problems.