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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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cranks but won't start [sound attached]Views : 7857 Replies : 62Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 24th, 2011, 11:00 | #61 |
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OK, so I ordered a new dizzy cap. The old one had just a wee bit of oxidation so I thought 'hey costs nothing' although I was quite confident it was still ok. The new cap proved that I was correct about the old one.
Then, I did the coil checks that were discribed in this post: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpo...7&postcount=12 result: a) points closed - no voltage between coil body and 'negative terminal' (i.e. the condeser connector thing where the wire from the coil goes to) - 12.xxV between negative battery and 'negative terminal' b) points open: - 12V between voil body and 'negative terminal' That should tell me that my coil is alright, right? And when do these things ever break anyway? Checked the fuel pump again: pumping. Checked the points gap again: 0.45mm Checked forum and my brain for any other ideas: nothing... Should I go and dismantle the dizzy (which I'd rather not)? When fitted the rotor arm is moveable about a couple of degrees in each direction. I don't know what kind of rebounce I should expect, but there's almost nothing. But as I understand it that should prevent her from starting, shouldn't it? She'd rather run bumpy innit? Any takers? My volvo mechanic (specialized on p1800) is about 20km away, so I'd rather not have it towed there, plus I am still eager to learn :-) Last edited by tabin; Nov 24th, 2011 at 11:04. |
Nov 24th, 2011, 20:54 | #62 |
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Firstly, I'd reduce that gap a little. Try 0.38. It might be the case that if you're unexperienced (no offence intended) you may have set the gap too wide. If it's too wide, it won't start. Too narrow, then it will start but your points will wear out quickly
Secondly, what you've said about how the shaft is acting when you twist the rotor isn't right. It should be properly springy and should return to its position with a proper "clink". However, you're right - it should still start if it's like this. You could try freeing it by soaking the felt pad with oil, but if it's bad already, they can infrequently be put right without having a full rebuild. If it's properly knackered, you might be better off sourcing a good replacement or getting yours professionally rebuilt. But as I said, it should definitely still start if the shaft is jammed or the springs/weights are knackered What you've tested with your volt meter is the low tension circuit. To test that the coil is producing a high tension circuit, you need to disconnect the HT lead from the top of the distributor cap and hold it very near a good earth. Now turn the engine by hand with the ignition on. Just as the points open, a spark should jump from the lead to the earth If you turn the engine so that piston #1 is at about 0 to 10 degrees adv, the spark should happen in conjunction with the timing marks on the crank pulley. If it doesn't, loosen the distributor clamp and rotate it untill it does BTW - what our mate asneddon recommended about having the jump vehicle running and a helper crank the engine while you rotate the distributor back and forth is really good advice Dunno what to advise other than that.....
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Jun 3rd, 2012, 14:00 | #63 |
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on the danger of getting stoned for digging this out
Hey gents,
Unfortunately I have been very busy with work for the last half year so I couldn't give my baby the attention she needed. Last Month I finally got to realise that I dont have time for this anymore and also did I run out of options. So I got the car towed to my mechanic of choice and let him do what he does best. Apparently it was the carbs being clogged up which really caught me by surprise. Just as well, as I would have not gone and dismantled them. I think this would have been a little bit too much for my little time available and even more for my limited skills doing such things. However, when asking back about the distributer and the points gap the mechanic said that it was spot on and configured almost to perfection. This is thanks to all youse who bared with me! It made me feel better to have done at least something right. ;-) She runs smooth and I am slowly getting used to the attention and random chats at the servo or the hardware store. Also I want to grab the oppotunity to thank you all again for you help and support. This is truely an awesome forum! Cheers, Stanley |
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