D24 D24T D24TIC bottom pulley problems

John Davies · Sep 3rd, 2008, 00:04

During a cam belt change I was somewhat stumped to find out that one of the 6mm hex bolts which bolts the crankshaft pulley together was completely rounded inside, preventing removal of the pulley to get at the belt.

On a previous car I got round this by drilling out the offending bolt 'in situ'. However, on my wife's car access is limited due to an aircon radiator. After a moments thought, I undid the two lower cam casing bolts (this casing lies between the pulley and the engine) and then gently removed the pulley complete with lower cog, with the casing still sandwiched in between.

It was then an easy job to drill out the bolt on the bench and reassemble it all with a new belt. Child's play - so why isn't it in the workshop manual, and why didn't I think of it last time? !!

Regards

Peter Milnes · Sep 3rd, 2008, 03:59

You normally remove the crankshaft nut in the centre (27mm). Beware torque is about 280 lbft.

All the best, Peter.

John Davies · Sep 3rd, 2008, 07:29

For the sake of absolute clarity perhaps I should have said:-

During a recent cam belt change although the central 27mm crankshaft bolt loosened easily I was somewhat stumped to find out that one of the 6mm hex bolts which bolts the crankshaft pulley together was completely rounded inside, preventing removal of the pulley to get at the belt.

On a previous car I got round this by drilling out the offending bolt 'in situ'. However, on my wife's car access is limited due to an aircon radiator. After a moments thought, I undid the two lower cam casing bolts (this casing lies between the pulley and the engine) and then gently removed the pulley complete with lower cog, with the casing still sandwiched in between.

It was then an easy job to drill out the bolt on the bench and reassemble it all with a new belt. Child's play - so why isn't it in the workshop manual, and why didn't I think of it last time? !!

Regards

John Davies

Peter Milnes · Sep 4th, 2008, 03:52

By workshop manual do you mean the Green book? It possibly would not be in the Green book as the book is taken from VW operations and the crankshaft pulley is not a VW part. The clearance on the LT 35 is quite good between the end of the crankshaft and the coolant radiator enabling easy removal of the crankshaft bolt. Because of the difference in clearance on the Volvo, with the crankshaft bolt removed the complete pulley/vibration damper should slide of the front of the crankshaft exposing the key. The lower cover and the four hex socket bolts do not need to be removed when changing the cambelt. When doing up the crankshaft bolt the torque is applied in a three stage sequence, this should result in approx 280 lbft torque as opposed to around 65 lbft torque with a B200/230 petrol engine.

If you have not got a Green book for D24, D24T and D24TIC engines I will give you the part number to get it from the dealer with.

All the best, Peter.

John Davies · Sep 4th, 2008, 09:28

Got one, though thanks for the thought, Peter, but still have my eye open for a 760 electrical one - though I think there is more than one, which is where the expense come in! Might just buy Vadis.

According to the green book you need to get the four hex bolts and the centre bolt out to reveal the cover, with the cog behind it - the cover is then removed to reveal the cog so the belt can be changed. I may well try it your way next time to see as it will be quicker. Some part of the book are quite possibly VW shots but all done in the engine bay show a 760. Presumably Volvo suggested doing it this way as it avoids any possibility of trapping the belt.

Many of my problems with Volvos have often arisen from neglect, over tightening or slipshod maintenance, as in this case - I found all five bolts had been plastered in thread sealer the last time the job was done, as was the space between the pulley and the cog - it isn't necessary on the four hex bolts at all and the main 27mm crank bolt needs some, but only on the last 3/4" of the threaded part of the bolt and not where it can escape onto other components. No wonder I had trouble getting it all apart!

I find the problem with the green book as with all manuals is that not surprisingly they are based on new engines, and do not deal with 'what happens if .....' - which is why this forum is so handy.

Regards

John Davies

Sep 3rd, 2008, 00:04	#1
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	D24 D24T D24TIC bottom pulley problems During a cam belt change I was somewhat stumped to find out that one of the 6mm hex bolts which bolts the crankshaft pulley together was completely rounded inside, preventing removal of the pulley to get at the belt. On a previous car I got round this by drilling out the offending bolt 'in situ'. However, on my wife's car access is limited due to an aircon radiator. After a moments thought, I undid the two lower cam casing bolts (this casing lies between the pulley and the engine) and then gently removed the pulley complete with lower cog, with the casing still sandwiched in between. It was then an easy job to drill out the bolt on the bench and reassemble it all with a new belt. Child's play - so why isn't it in the workshop manual, and why didn't I think of it last time? !! Regards __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration.

Sep 3rd, 2008, 07:29	#3
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	For the sake of absolute clarity perhaps I should have said:- During a recent cam belt change although the central 27mm crankshaft bolt loosened easily I was somewhat stumped to find out that one of the 6mm hex bolts which bolts the crankshaft pulley together was completely rounded inside, preventing removal of the pulley to get at the belt. On a previous car I got round this by drilling out the offending bolt 'in situ'. However, on my wife's car access is limited due to an aircon radiator. After a moments thought, I undid the two lower cam casing bolts (this casing lies between the pulley and the engine) and then gently removed the pulley complete with lower cog, with the casing still sandwiched in between. It was then an easy job to drill out the bolt on the bench and reassemble it all with a new belt. Child's play - so why isn't it in the workshop manual, and why didn't I think of it last time? !! Regards John Davies __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration.

Sep 4th, 2008, 09:28	#5
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	Got one, though thanks for the thought, Peter, but still have my eye open for a 760 electrical one - though I think there is more than one, which is where the expense come in! Might just buy Vadis. According to the green book you need to get the four hex bolts and the centre bolt out to reveal the cover, with the cog behind it - the cover is then removed to reveal the cog so the belt can be changed. I may well try it your way next time to see as it will be quicker. Some part of the book are quite possibly VW shots but all done in the engine bay show a 760. Presumably Volvo suggested doing it this way as it avoids any possibility of trapping the belt. Many of my problems with Volvos have often arisen from neglect, over tightening or slipshod maintenance, as in this case - I found all five bolts had been plastered in thread sealer the last time the job was done, as was the space between the pulley and the cog - it isn't necessary on the four hex bolts at all and the main 27mm crank bolt needs some, but only on the last 3/4" of the threaded part of the bolt and not where it can escape onto other components. No wonder I had trouble getting it all apart! I find the problem with the green book as with all manuals is that not surprisingly they are based on new engines, and do not deal with 'what happens if .....' - which is why this forum is so handy. Regards John Davies __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration. Last edited by John Davies; Sep 4th, 2008 at 09:39.

Sep 3rd, 2008, 03:59	#2
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	You normally remove the crankshaft nut in the centre (27mm). Beware torque is about 280 lbft. All the best, Peter.

Sep 4th, 2008, 03:52	#4
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	By workshop manual do you mean the Green book? It possibly would not be in the Green book as the book is taken from VW operations and the crankshaft pulley is not a VW part. The clearance on the LT 35 is quite good between the end of the crankshaft and the coolant radiator enabling easy removal of the crankshaft bolt. Because of the difference in clearance on the Volvo, with the crankshaft bolt removed the complete pulley/vibration damper should slide of the front of the crankshaft exposing the key. The lower cover and the four hex socket bolts do not need to be removed when changing the cambelt. When doing up the crankshaft bolt the torque is applied in a three stage sequence, this should result in approx 280 lbft torque as opposed to around 65 lbft torque with a B200/230 petrol engine. If you have not got a Green book for D24, D24T and D24TIC engines I will give you the part number to get it from the dealer with. All the best, Peter.

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