Engine: 2.3 Carb B23A/B230K: - Pierburg 175 CD instructions

Sui · Jan 20th, 2007, 20:16

Hello all, hoping that the collective knowledge will help!?! I want to try a carb clan out, but don't really want to do it until i can see some diagrams of have some half decent instructions! I've searched almost everywhere (until i got bored) and can't find anything technical on the carb (even substituing it for Stromberg)? I don't know what "special" oil to use, or how i dismantle (except for trial and error).

Also - went to get a new dizzy cap and rocker arm (i've now got new HT leads and the Sparks are excellent) the new ones looked a lot different to what is on the car despite checking the type of engine. Is it possible that a different rocker arm with appropriate dizzy cap will work if it's not the "original type"?

thanks for any help chaps.

regards,
Sui

also looked under the car - that was scary and for another post!!!

Mike_Brace · Jan 20th, 2007, 23:05

I can't help with diagrams. Regard specisl oil for damper just use ATF (automatic transmission fluid)
Regards cap and rotor - the cap should look bsically the same. Rotors - ther were two types used a standard one and a rev limiter one (this is bigger and bulkier and more expenxive) Either will work ok - I never use the rev limiter one but that is personal preference.

Mike

julie · Jan 21st, 2007, 19:40

hi ive had one of these carbs full stripdown & set up is covered in the haynes manual (green one) quite easy to follow.i did find if theres no blockage alot can be achieved with a can of spray carb cleaner just remove air cleaner and follow instructions on can just make sure you fit a new in line fillter to keep it clean.

loki_the_glt · Jan 22nd, 2007, 09:56

Pierburg CD175s will take ordinary 20/50w oil so you don't have to buy ATF - at least the 3 B21/B230A/B200K's I ran were happy enough on it.

The problem is the needle/jet assembly - the needles and jets wear after about 25k miles (40k Km) and they have to be sourced from a dealer because no one else used them. On mine I replaced the Pierburg with a non-emissions Stromberg CD175 and adjusted the mix and idle. Replace the diaphragm while you've got the carb in bits - it only costs a couple of pounds.

The rotor arms for carb'ed models are different those on the injected ones in my experience - my GLT has a rev-limiter rotor arm and the mounting shaft is a greater diameter than the B200K's.

Good luck and keep on motoring..........

Jan 20th, 2007, 20:16	#1
Sui New Member Last Online: Mar 6th, 2024 14:05 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ashtead	Pierburg 175 CD instructions Hello all, hoping that the collective knowledge will help!?! I want to try a carb clan out, but don't really want to do it until i can see some diagrams of have some half decent instructions! I've searched almost everywhere (until i got bored) and can't find anything technical on the carb (even substituing it for Stromberg)? I don't know what "special" oil to use, or how i dismantle (except for trial and error). Also - went to get a new dizzy cap and rocker arm (i've now got new HT leads and the Sparks are excellent) the new ones looked a lot different to what is on the car despite checking the type of engine. Is it possible that a different rocker arm with appropriate dizzy cap will work if it's not the "original type"? thanks for any help chaps. regards, Sui also looked under the car - that was scary and for another post!!!

Jan 20th, 2007, 23:05	#2
Mike_Brace Former contributor Last Online: May 15th, 2024 09:52 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rhosgoch, Anglesey	I can't help with diagrams. Regard specisl oil for damper just use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Regards cap and rotor - the cap should look bsically the same. Rotors - ther were two types used a standard one and a rev limiter one (this is bigger and bulkier and more expenxive) Either will work ok - I never use the rev limiter one but that is personal preference. Mike __________________ A Volvo is for life not just for Christmas!

Jan 21st, 2007, 19:40	#3
julie New Member Last Online: Apr 28th, 2008 18:33 Join Date: May 2006 Location: newark	pierburg hi ive had one of these carbs full stripdown & set up is covered in the haynes manual (green one) quite easy to follow.i did find if theres no blockage alot can be achieved with a can of spray carb cleaner just remove air cleaner and follow instructions on can just make sure you fit a new in line fillter to keep it clean.

Jan 22nd, 2007, 09:56	#4
loki_the_glt Torquemeister Last Online: May 19th, 2024 17:26 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Asgard, Cheshire	Pierburg CD175s will take ordinary 20/50w oil so you don't have to buy ATF - at least the 3 B21/B230A/B200K's I ran were happy enough on it. The problem is the needle/jet assembly - the needles and jets wear after about 25k miles (40k Km) and they have to be sourced from a dealer because no one else used them. On mine I replaced the Pierburg with a non-emissions Stromberg CD175 and adjusted the mix and idle. Replace the diaphragm while you've got the carb in bits - it only costs a couple of pounds. The rotor arms for carb'ed models are different those on the injected ones in my experience - my GLT has a rev-limiter rotor arm and the mounting shaft is a greater diameter than the B200K's. Good luck and keep on motoring.......... __________________ loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4.

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