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I Saw The Crow (Engine Management Light) And Died..

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Old May 23rd, 2021, 14:34   #11
Laird Scooby
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Cam cover gasket could certainly be contributing to the ick, and has gone on the ever extending list.

Have just removed the PCV and it's worryingly clear. I say worryingly, because I was really hoping to find a problem..

Also quick test drive, the cutting out seems related to braking. Slowing "assertively" (but not harshly) from 40 sees it die at around maybe 20. Very gentle braking doesn't seem to provoke it, or at least not in a repeatable way.

In other news, while messing with the idle control pipework the ABS light came on and now refuses to go off.....
Did you check the small bore manifold stub on the vac side of the flame trap to ensure it was clear and providing vacuum to the flametrap? If it isn't, it will allow pressure to build in the crankcase causing oil leaks and lack of willingness to idle without extra fuel - also check the idle microswitch is closed when the throttle is released - you can open the throttle by hand under the bonnet and you should hear it click open, likewise when releasing the throttle gently you will hear it click closed again.

You seem (on the face of it) to be losing fuel during braking. Was it you that had the pump/sender unit out? If so, are you sure you got it back in correctly? There are two arrows along an imaginary horizontal line on early cars, just one in the 12 o'clock position on later cars, difficult to see as they're often covered with decades-old dirt, they're faint to start with too.
If you haven't quite got the sender vertical the pump won't be at the bottom of the tank so as you brake, the fuel will run to the front of the tank leaving the pump uncovered.

The idle and ABS warning light aren't connected so it seems to be a coincidence. When you first start the car, does the ABS light go off or does it remain on and does the charge warning light come on at position 2 and go out and remain out once the engine is running?
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Old May 23rd, 2021, 14:47   #12
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The idle and ABS warning light aren't connected so it seems to be a coincidence. When you first start the car, does the ABS light go off or does it remain on and does the charge warning light come on at position 2 and go out and remain out once the engine is running?
Haven't checked the small pipe as yet - Currently shopping for a PCV O ring as there wasn't one when I took it off, and I'm not convinced that's quite right..

I never got the fuel sender out fully, but it definitely went back in the same way it came out. Trouble is the car is so new to me there's been very little running to be able to pinpoint any problems starting after I'd done x or y.

Did the sensor test thing along with fault code reading last night, and the switch on the throttle body passed. However, I am wondering if it might be a bit sticky, which might perhaps explain the intermittent nature of this issue?

ABS light is staying on engine running or not. It also dims three or so times, accompanied by three clicks from the area of the ABS pump (these things are too big, I can't turn the key with my ear where I need it!).

There's definitely something amiss with either spark, fuel, air, or all three - I've read the CPS can start to fail, so next test drive I'll be trying to keep a closer eye on the rev counter. And I think the idle valve is coming off for a gum check and clean, once I've recovered from yanking the PCV.

Aside from "Why the £$&*% did I buy this stupid thing", it's quite frustrating as the engine otherwise runs fine.
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Old May 23rd, 2021, 14:55   #13
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Aside from "Why the £$&*% did I buy this stupid thing", it's quite frustrating as the engine otherwise runs fine.
Keep at it. You’ll get there eventually.
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Old May 23rd, 2021, 15:04   #14
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Haven't checked the small pipe as yet - Currently shopping for a PCV O ring as there wasn't one when I took it off, and I'm not convinced that's quite right..

I never got the fuel sender out fully, but it definitely went back in the same way it came out. Trouble is the car is so new to me there's been very little running to be able to pinpoint any problems starting after I'd done x or y.

Did the sensor test thing along with fault code reading last night, and the switch on the throttle body passed. However, I am wondering if it might be a bit sticky, which might perhaps explain the intermittent nature of this issue?

ABS light is staying on engine running or not. It also dims three or so times, accompanied by three clicks from the area of the ABS pump (these things are too big, I can't turn the key with my ear where I need it!).

There's definitely something amiss with either spark, fuel, air, or all three - I've read the CPS can start to fail, so next test drive I'll be trying to keep a closer eye on the rev counter. And I think the idle valve is coming off for a gum check and clean, once I've recovered from yanking the PCV.

Aside from "Why the £$&*% did I buy this stupid thing", it's quite frustrating as the engine otherwise runs fine.
Volvo should be able to supply the O ring for the oil separator. Did you check the flame trap as well?

Lubing the throttle linkage and exercising it (with the engine off) through its range of movement should improve things if it is sticking.

It sounds like the pump motor in the ABS modulator block is sticking and/or siezed. This will cause the warning light to be on regardless if it has siezed - check the earth cable on it, the ends are prone to corrosion which could cause a current draw but not enough to get it moving resulting in higher current draw (ironic since it's not getting enough to start) and no movement of the pump so the system doesn't sense it's working.
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Old May 23rd, 2021, 15:48   #15
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949659 is the number for the O-ring it's about £4 from Volvo
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Old May 24th, 2021, 13:26   #16
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I'll try to get an ABS fault code off the quaint little black box with jump wire thing next time i glare at the car.

I have noticed the flame trap's blocked where the vacuum ( ? ) pipe connects, so I'm assuming the bit on the manifold will be too. Don't know if that would be enough of an issue to be causing these cut outs, but will get it all cleaned through anyway.

The ABS light made me curious in case the ECU was getting itself confused about road speed, although the speedo seems to work fine the whole time.
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Old May 24th, 2021, 13:33   #17
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I have noticed the flame trap's blocked where the vacuum ( ? ) pipe connects, so I'm assuming the bit on the manifold will be too. Don't know if that would be enough of an issue to be causing these cut outs, but will get it all cleaned through anyway.
Yes, potentially it could be. It will also cause oil leaks throughout the engine!
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Old May 24th, 2021, 13:42   #18
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Yes, potentially it could be. It will also cause oil leaks throughout the engine!
Oh, in case I got my wording wrong, the small pipe to the manifold, not the big one from large air hose to PCV.

It just seems so... Small.
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Old May 24th, 2021, 14:59   #19
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Oh, in case I got my wording wrong, the small pipe to the manifold, not the big one from large air hose to PCV.

It just seems so... Small.
That's the hose i'm referring to and the small bore stub on the manifold - if there is a blockage there you won't get any vacuum where it needs it in the PCV system so the crankcase will pressurise squirting oil out anywhere it can get past. Give it all a good clean, a piece of stiff wire or a small drill bit (~2mm from memory) used between your fingers or even in a small hand drill will help remove the bulk of the gunge. You'll be surprised at the improvement that alone makes to the general running!

After you've got all the PCV system clean (the whole system, not just parts!) wait a month or so and then clean it again. You'll be amazed how dirty it gets in that time! Wait another month and do it again but it should be cleaner this time, third month, check it and it should still be fairly clean so thereafer just do it while the oil is draining on the routine oil/filter changes.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 00:49   #20
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Tetchily managed to check the ABS codes. Well, code. There may be more, I stopped at the first one.

215.

Which seems to mean "relay", so I wonder if that explains the clicking. Which I know most likely doesn't explain the cutting out, but I'm wondering if it's the relay itself, or maybe a shared earth with other enginey bits. So will chase the earth points, as I think has been suggested on the thread, next time I'm in the mood to remember this car exists.
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