Bringing a 740 back to life

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If he's going to be stripping the calipers, get him to order the bits, either from PFV or Bigg Red - there are many different calipers fitted depending on the exact model, year andwhether it ha ABS or not, it would seem yours doesn't have ABS though if it has dual-piston calipers - again a very strange arrangement where the inboard side (i think) of the calipers have dual-pistons, the outboard side has a single piston.
Other calipers can be single piston sliding caliper or twin piston caliper (one in, one outboard) and variations on those themes happen with age, and other factors.

When you get the car back, locate the steering column in the engine bay and towards the bottom you'll find a UJ (universal joint). Spray that with penetrating oil and work the steering from lock to lock several times. Afterwards spray it with a heavier lube, thicker oil or spray grease and work that in my the lock to lock procedure. It could also be a sticky top mount on the suspension struts but that will loosen with use usually.
Sometimes wear in the rack that traditionally causes a sticky point is in fact the UJ in the column and many people have found this.

Engine oil leak - add 0.5L Carlube ATF-U to the engine oil. When you do an oil/filter change, after draining the old oil and fitting the new filter, add 0.5L ATF-U first then top up with your choice of 10W40 semi-synth. This will help condition the old oil seals and revive them, frees sticky valves, piston rings, revives the valve stem seals, cleans the engine gently and generally improves things inside. Until the old dirt in the engine is all gone, the oil/filter changes will show dirty oil but it will get cleaner over the years. Adding 0.5L ATF-U each oil/filter change will keep the seals in good condition and the engine clean.

Thanks Dave. I need to rebook the Volvo in for next week for the calipers. In the meantime I will get it home and take a look myself and see what I need to order from Bigg Red. Looks a better bet than PFV in terms of options.

[griston64]

If you haven't changed timing belt yet, make sure you do the three front seals ( cam,intermediate and crank ) when you do and that will cure your oil leak. Gen Volvo seals are better and not that expensive.

[Challo]

Originally Posted by griston64

If you haven't changed timing belt yet, make sure you do the three front seals ( cam,intermediate and crank ) when you do and that will cure your oil leak. Gen Volvo seals are better and not that expensive.

Apparently the timing belt was changed before so I would presume the seal would have been done?

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Challo

Apparently the timing belt was changed before so I would presume the seal would have been done?

Not really. Depends on who changed belt and if they requested the seals to be done. If you have no proof I wouldn't take their word that the belt was changed let alone the seals.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

Apparently the timing belt was changed before so I would presume the seal would have been done?

How long ago was it changed though Chris?

*** EDIT *** What Mark said! ^^^^^

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

How long ago was it changed though Chris?

*** EDIT *** What Mark said! ^^^^^

According to the service history file it was in 2018, and the notes say cambelt, tensioner, and front seals all replaced.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

According to the service history file it was in 2018, and the notes say cambelt, tensioner, and front seals all replaced.

In that case, renew the timing belt and tensioner and inspect the seals. The car was sat for some time and that could have caused damage to the tensioner bearings and the timing belt itself. For the cost, it's a no-brainer really. :thumbs-up:

[Challo]

Originally Posted by Challo

Thanks Dave. I need to rebook the Volvo in for next week for the calipers. In the meantime I will get it home and take a look myself and see what I need to order from Bigg Red. Looks a better bet than PFV in terms of options.

Got some photo's from my mechanic on the caliper showing the rubbers failing. Need to take the wheel off though and check the caliper but it looks like I have the Bendix version.

Had a quick chat with Bigg Red last night, but need to provide the caliper brand before they can advise the right repair kits.

To add, just got a quote back from my mechanic to rebuild and he says it will be about £160. I’m wondering I might just order new ones and fit myself? I had a look online on how to rebuild calipers and it’s unclear if it’s something I could do? Would I need compressed gas to remove the piston?

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Challo

Got some photo's from my mechanic on the caliper showing the rubbers failing. Need to take the wheel off though and check the caliper but it looks like I have the Bendix version.

Had a quick chat with Bigg Red last night, but need to provide the caliper brand before they can advise the right repair kits.

To add, just got a quote back from my mechanic to rebuild and he says it will be about £160. I’m wondering I might just order new ones and fit myself? I had a look online on how to rebuild calipers and it’s unclear if it’s something I could do? Would I need compressed gas to remove the piston?

If you have a grease gun you can pump grease in to it and it is more of a controlled removal. I can't remember exactly how to connect the grease gun to the caliper though as it was several years ago now.

Bigg Red are very good at what they do and in the last week they have done two forum members calipers and my mate is taking some 340 calipers there on Thursday so you are in good hands with them. They will soda blast the calipers and refinish them too so they won't be rusty, I doubt the garage will be doing that for £160, probably the same price that Bigg Red will charge to overhaul the whole thing with new seals and pistons.

If you do decide to refurbish them yourself it would be worth asking the garage to pop the pistons out for you. The actual fitting of the seals is a fiddly job but doesn't take long.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Challo

Got some photo's from my mechanic on the caliper showing the rubbers failing. Need to take the wheel off though and check the caliper but it looks like I have the Bendix version.

Had a quick chat with Bigg Red last night, but need to provide the caliper brand before they can advise the right repair kits.

To add, just got a quote back from my mechanic to rebuild and he says it will be about £160. I’m wondering I might just order new ones and fit myself? I had a look online on how to rebuild calipers and it’s unclear if it’s something I could do? Would I need compressed gas to remove the piston?

Looking at the state of those Chris, i think i'd find out from Bigg Red how much they'd charge for a reconditioned pair.

Start soaking the union where the flexi joins the caliper on each one now and also the bleed nipple - you may not need to touch the bleed nipple but better to have soaked it and not need to touch it than need to touch it and not have soaked it!

Also find out from your mech how much he'd charge to swap on a new pair of calipers and then decide if you want to tackle the swap yourself. It's a straight-forward procedure if you do it correctly, if you don't it can be a bit of a nightmare.