Heater Blower and Resistors

[quevatre]

Hi Dave. Many thanks for the advice. I re-measured the resistor pack on a lower range and found 0.9, 1.4, 2.0 and 3.3 ohms - bingo!

Okay so having disconnected and reconnected these items several times, I assumed (never assume!) that the connections were okay. I cleaned up the spade connectors again and used WD40 sparingly. Connected it up and it all worked! Thank you again for your help. I feel I have learned a lot in a short time about this car.

Now I have a niggly problem which is that the cable which goes from the heater valve near the (absent) clutch pedal past the back of the heater and to the top of the chamber near the glovebox isn't latching correctly onto the intermediate assembly . The cable from the dash heater control had become detached due to the fact that it was not connected up correctly at this first assembly . This isn't something I necessarily need advice on, just five pairs of very long reaching hands! You can see in the photo that the end which should tuck under the plastic tag is too short. It pops out when the cable is pushed .

Lots of fun for tomorrow night!

Cheers

André

[Laird Scooby]

Those values make a lot more sense Andre!

Contact cleaner spray is better than WD40 but WD will suffice at a push.

As for the heater cable detaching itself from the arm on the valve, you can cheat with a pair of long nose pliers. If you grab the "tail" on the end of the wound bit of the cable with the pliers and turn it anti-clockwise as viewed in your pic, it will open up the loop slightly enabling you to push it onto the arm further so it catches better on it.

You may find it's easier if you set the temperature to cold which should push the cable to its longest throw. If memory serves there's a spring clip that holds the cable outer onto the fixed part of the valve, pop that clip off and it should give you extra movement to help get the inner cable onto the arm.

[alfix]

Originally Posted by James_EG_940

Hello all,

Blower fan stopped working the other day on settings 1-4, only blowing on full speed (5). I suspected resistor pack so took it all apart today to check.

The blower has been squealing for a long time and indeed was very rough to turn by hand. Resistor pack I did some digging and it turns out that it was actually just the thermal fuse on the side that has gone. Quite easy to replace and still available: https://cpc.farnell.com/thermodisc/g...84c/dp/FF01030 So if your fan has stopped then check this tiny component before spending £65 on a new resistor pack!

Otherwise though I think it failed in the first place simply due to how difficult it was to move the fan, thus causing it to stall out, pull excessive current and blow the thermal fuse. Does anyone have a known good blower fan (no AC!) they could sell me? There doesn't seem to be much option for anything else now as all the new ones available seem to be for cars with AC. Mine has the wide, flat connector with two locking tabs - one on each short edge.

I've just fixed my occasionally squeaking motor with WD40. It wasn't binding much. It was mostly the top bearing nearest to the impeller drum that was a bit tight. I had the 4th speed stop last week, then it worked again! Now as I finished reinstalling the freed up fan only full speed 5 works! Thermal fuse is intact. Anyone help?

[alfix]

Originally Posted by alfix

I've just fixed my occasionally squeaking motor with WD40. It wasn't binding much. It was mostly the top bearing nearest to the impeller drum that was a bit tight. I had the 4th speed stop last week, then it worked again! Now as I finished reinstalling the freed up fan only full speed 5 works! Thermal fuse is intact. Anyone help?

PS. I had a spare fan & that was seizing up too so oil may be your best bet.

[alfix]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Can't argue with anything you've said there James, it's more or less what i hinted at when i said i didn't know how viable it would be.

Might be worth checking part numbers for the 740 heater fan as well, most of those were non-A/C so could be an easier find than one for a 940.

I just got a spare fan from a 740 & confirm it's the same only difference is I can't get to oil top bearing as blade drum is solid & mine is made with gaps in the base.

[alfix]

I have just jumped from one side to other side of fan thermo fuse on 940s (non cruse con to test & even though it looks ok It's blown. I have a smaller resistor block unit from a 740 with a Pink coded fuse but mine is White coded. Can I use it's fuse ?

[Laird Scooby]

Air-con or no?

Don't think there's any difference in the thermal fuse ratings dependent on the outer colour, some did at one time but they gave up on that idea when one company or other ran out of the right colour and used the wrong colour.

[alfix]

Originally Posted by alfix

I have just jumped from one side to other side of fan thermo fuse on 940s (non cruse con to test & even though it looks ok It's blown. I have a smaller resistor block unit from a 740 with a Pink coded fuse but mine is White coded. Can I use it's fuse ?

Just Jumped the thermal fuse & found all speeds work so it's blown. I see the resistor unit I got from a 740 only has 3 wires in it's plug & is smaller. My 940 has 4. The thermal fuse in mine is coded White on it's end. The 740 one is Pink. What temp range are they compared to the above link ?

[alfix]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Air-con or no?

Don't think there's any difference in the thermal fuse ratings dependent on the outer colour, some did at one time but they gave up on that idea when one company or other ran out of the right colour and used the wrong colour.

The link to CPC shop shown goes to a the 184 c temp; fuse I need to know this is the correct heat rang if any ones knows

[alfix]

Originally Posted by alfix

I've just fixed my occasionally squeaking motor with WD40. It wasn't binding much. It was mostly the top bearing nearest to the impeller drum that was a bit tight. I had the 4th speed stop last week, then it worked again! Now as I finished reinstalling the freed up fan only full speed 5 works! Thermal fuse is intact. Anyone help?

Thanks. Yes that's the fault on mine. Is 184c the correct heat range for the 4 wire input unit in my 940s (No cruse con)? As the 3 wire input one I got from a 740 (non cruse)has a smaller unit(so gets less hot) & a pink coded fuse. Mine is white code.