Rusty arch.

[volvo always]

How is the best way to repair this wheelarch lip?

Is the only option to cut it out and apply and weld in a new piece?

The other side is just a few scabs to grind off, this is the worst. I also have a hole below the rear light. you can see it in show us your volvo.

What materials would I need and what is the procedure?



Thanks James

[Antz]

the proper way would be to cut it all out and fit a new arch in place....

OR....

Grind the entire arch lip off back almost level with the outer arch, give it a damn good rust proofing from inside with some kind of cavity wax and heat to help it penetrate, outside with some tetroseal on the lips and make sure that gets in nice and thick too.

Sounds a bit rough but I did this on my mk2 escort when the lips went rusty. Its a popular budget idea to fit wide wheels when the arch lips get in the way and I think John_h has done somethign similar on his 240 so give him a PM and ask him how he did his.

[Burdekin]

The best way is to weld in new sections, how much depends on how much rust there is. What's the inner arch like? That could really dictate how much of a repair is required. If it is only the lip that is rusted you can cut out the sections and weld in new sections. Make sure to use plenty of weld through primer on the inside and plenty of waxoil when done.

Material is just 1mm sheet metal. Procedure is to make the repair sections first to fit. Mark the new sections where they are going to be welded in and cut off the damaged sections, drill out any spot welds. Clean any sealant from inner wing and remove and surface rust and then liberal coats of weld through primer. Hold and tack repair sections in place. Slowly tack the joint until you get a complete weld, use as low a amps setting you can and try and ensure you keep the arc in the centre of the joint because you will get less distortion if both sides have equal heat distribution. Plug weld any areas that had spot welds, grind welds flush and prep for painting.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by mitch1971

The best way is to weld in new sections, how much depends on how much rust there is. What's the inner arch like? That could really dictate how much of a repair is required. If it is only the lip that is rusted you can cut out the sections and weld in new sections. Make sure to use plenty of weld through primer on the inside and plenty of waxoil when done.

Material is just 1mm sheet metal. Procedure is to make the repair sections first to fit. Mark the new sections where they are going to be welded in and cut off the damaged sections, drill out any spot welds. Clean any sealant from inner wing and remove and surface rust and then liberal coats of weld through primer. Hold and tack repair sections in place. Slowly tack the joint until you get a complete weld, use as low a amps setting you can and try and ensure you keep the arc in the centre of the joint because you will get less distortion if both sides have equal heat distribution. Plug weld any areas that had spot welds, grind welds flush and prep for painting.

Hi,
Thank you both

It's no way bad enough yet to need any new wheelarch repair panel.

I think the cutting out is going to be the best option as it's only the rust shown thats the bad part.

The actual outside of the wheelarch just has literally tiny blistered paint but not any serious rot. When you press the blistered paint it oozes out with water.
I was going to lightly sand, waxoil/primer and paint and lacquer this area
. Is this the right procedure? The only filler that I envisage using will be around the new pieces of metal. The other area the same is at the 10 o clock position on the wheelarch inner lip.

Many thanks James.

[Burdekin]

The moisture is most likely coming from the inside as they rust from inside out. When you remove the paint assess the damage, if it is holed then cut it out, you will then be able to assess the inner arch. If not bad enough to need replacing but some surface rust, give it a liberal coat of metal ready to neutralise the rust.

[Clifford Pope]

Is this going to be a pristine restoration, or just an everyday car that you want to look reasonable and not have jagged bits of rusty metal showing?

If the latter, then cut out the rust and build up the missing profile with metal sheet and body filler. Anchor the metal with the filler into the slot between the inner and outer wing. When you have finished spray waxoyl into the inside of the arch from each end.

This will last for years.

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

Is this going to be a pristine restoration, or just an everyday car that you want to look reasonable and not have jagged bits of rusty metal showing?

If the latter, then cut out the rust and build up the missing profile with metal sheet and body filler. Anchor the metal with the filler into the slot between the inner and outer wing. When you have finished spray waxoyl into the inside of the arch from each end.

This will last for years.

If you can weld why would you stick repair sections in with filler? If you ask me it would be easier just to weld in the repair sections then it's job done properly.

[vlv240]

Mine had the same problem, but the condition of both rear wheel arches was even worse so after I decided to fix this issue, I was lucky enough to find 2 new rear wheel arches (pattern parts) made by Klokkerholm.

Here are the steps I followed:

- cut to fit the new ones as I didn't need them as they were delivered (cut the material in excess);

- grinded the old paint, marked on the rear wings where to cut in order to weld in the new ones and down with the rusty parts;

- tack welded the new ones in place;

- filler;

- sanded;

- primer;

- paint.

And that was all as I only need a car to run not a show winner.

[ratgreen]

I have this exact problem, would this be a reason to fail mot? its not really structural.

[volvo always]

Thanks everyone,

No this isn't going to be a show car. I wish it was but it has it's share of City living vandals. Ie a vandal dented the front drivers wing with a hammer by the looks, 1 inch dent about 20mm deep and it's been keyed down the rear wing. I think the vandal also smashed the windscreen as it's a replacement, but probably a good thing as it doesnt seem to leak!!

This damage was done in Birmingham when the disabled owner owned it.

I will do the prep work myself and get new metal welded in and then waxoil and paint etc.

James