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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Bleeding problem!Views : 2472 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 10th, 2009, 13:08 | #1 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Jan 26th, 2023 12:19
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancing
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Bleeding problem!
After fitting a new master cylinder, overhauled rear brake valves and calipers, new flexibles and new copper brake pipes plus fittings to our '68 car, I still can't get any resistance on the brake pedal after repeated bleeding.
Although we get plenty of fluid out of the nipples when using a pressure bleeding device in the specified order, still nothing at the pedal. The actuating rod from the pedal through the servo works fine, the cylinder ditto and there is no obvious leakage, so I am wondering if the pipes should be double-flared (if you follow) rather than the single flare we got when using the first tool. Could air be getting in this way, without fluid leakage? No book seems to say. Also, Haynes says take the nylon spindle brake-fail thing out of the 6-way block near the master cylinder, but should this be replaced before testing after bleeding (although no fluid leaks out)? Should we use higher pressure than the spare tyre, to force maybe an obstinate air bubble out? I remember years ago that the Amazon needed different pipe fittings to those normally supplied by a factors, which didn't give enough thread to stop leakage: could the same reasons apply to the 140 range? Any help will be gratefully received for continued work tomorrow. |
Mar 10th, 2009, 13:48 | #2 |
never knowingly slow
Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: near Bath
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I've done this loads of times to my 140 and it does seem to take an age but I get there in the end. If the pipes are all tight, air shouldn't be getting in and assume the fluid level is always kept up in the cylinder when doing it. Leave the brake light switch out until all done.
There is a specific order listed in the book to do it and I do it manually rather than with pressure and always allow over a litre of fluid to do it properly. Even if a seal had gone, you should see excess leaking somewhere. Good luck |
Mar 10th, 2009, 16:41 | #3 |
Member since 1988
Last Online: Yesterday 19:57
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Middlewich
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Brake bleeding.
Just one observation, the nylon/brass plunger in the terminal block is not just a switch, it centralises the balance shuttle valve between the dual-circuit systems and I've always had it in place (centred) when bleeding the brakes on my ES which has the same layout.
I'm not an expert, but with it removed during bleeding will one circuit not get full fluid or pressure? Regards, Paul |
Mar 11th, 2009, 09:27 | #4 |
never knowingly slow
Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: near Bath
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Paul, assuming the ES system is the same as the 140, the nylon rod is a sensor designed to pick up a problem in the circuit. If one circuit goes, the rod moves and activates the warning light. If you bleed with it in place, it will be pulled around hence why the book says leave it out until all done.
I've left it in by accident once and having done the job, the brake warning light stayed on....doh! |
Mar 11th, 2009, 11:00 | #5 | |
Master Member
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Quote:
Sometimes it is impossible to get an airbubble out of the rearbrake pressure regulator. In that case put the back of the car a little bit higher than the front, say about 10". Than bleed, if that doesn't do the trick bleed with engine running to get the servo working. And my ES has double flaring on the brakepipes, not sure about the 140 though.
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Last edited by B20F; Mar 11th, 2009 at 11:08. |
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Mar 11th, 2009, 20:33 | #6 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Jan 26th, 2023 12:19
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancing
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Thanks for all your help so far, especially B20F for confirming our thoughts re that nylon plunger. It won't go back until bleeding is complete.
Today we decided to redo all the copper brake pipe ends using the flaring tool that makes double-flares, and I must say they look very similar to those on the old pipes, so assume this to be the proper way. If time available will refit tomorrow or Friday, cross all our fingers and toes and try to bleed them again. I note you advising possible air bubbles in those valves underneath, so will be especially thorough on the rear brakes AND will bleed in the order in the books! Will send progress report when/if successful. |
Apr 2nd, 2009, 03:20 | #7 |
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Last Online: Jun 29th, 2017 06:51
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: eastsound
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brakes wont bleed
I am having the same problem. I have replace the master cylender, the calipers and pads. The system will not bleed, even with a power bleeder.
I pump it up with the brake pedal, step out of the car then try it again and straight to the floor. I took out the warning valve in the 6 branch union before bleeding and it seems to be leaking fluid. Should it be wet ? Any advice would be great. Rob |
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