V70 Suspension: Rear spring replacement on a T5

[VroomVroomClonk]

I've got a broken rear suspension spring so need to replace the pair on my 2005 V70 T5.
After reading various posts on here about doing the job, I have bought an internal spring compressor that is a good fit. However, even after compressing the spring to the maximum I can get, it is still not short enough to clear the spring seats for removal.
Obviously other people have managed this job on their cars using internal compressors, so I'm now wondering if the suspension on a T5 is different to the less sporty models. T5 versions appear to me to ride lower than others, and I'm now thinking that maybe I have less suspension travel than other versions and so insufficient clearance to get a spring out.

So my question is, has anyone ever successfully changed rear springs on a T5 using an internal spring compressor?

Thank you.

[stuart bowes]

I don't know different it is to the non turbo cars but I didn't even need to compress my spring at all to take it out, I just took the bolt out of the inner end of the lower control arm ( in the middle of the car) and that drops down far enough the spring just comes out

It was awkward to wriggle in and out in fairness a compressor would have made it easier. But I managed

Getting the bolt back in required a few swear words and some jiggery poker to get back in actually IIRC having the car jacked up higher / lower on that side seemed to make a difference to how that arm sort of 'twisted' somehow. Found the right height and the holes all lined up, one smack with a mallet and it went back in

[b1mcp]

Yes we have 3 T5s in the family and I've done the rear springs on all of them.

Did you get the Sealey compressor tool? If you're using that it is necessary to modify the effective length of the tool with a spacer tube in order to get enough compression on the spring.

See this previous post for a bit more detail.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ghlight=sealey

[oragex]

Replacing the rear springs on FWD is quite a difficult job. It can theoretically be done in 3 ways, Youtube has a russian guy using a bottle jack on top of the wheel - not at all what I would call safe. Second option, I've done it by lifting the trailing arm somewhere about under the spring then removing the arm bolt near the exhaust - a really nasty job very difficult to free that bolt and also to put it back. Finally 3rd option with the spring compressor - be sure to buy a quality tool, not the chinese ones which are biodegradables and really dangerous, just read the neg reviews on Amazon. Since you already have the compressor, try compressing then for the last bit try using a bottle jack like the russian guy

[TLPower]

I have changed 3 sets using the same method as Stuart Bowes on T5's

Jack up the rear on both sides, axle stands placed under the jacking point remove the trolley jack.

Remove the shock, place the jack saddle under the swing arm as close to the inner bolt as possible and raise until it takes the weight. Remove the bolt and lower the jack.

Use multiple swears and the spring comes out, remove the rubber spring cushions. Tape or tie wrap cushions to the the new spring, "lube" the metal cushion seats with liquid soap and push the spring into the top seat/wishbone.

Raise the jack (being careful not to lift off the jack stands) until the bolt holes are level. Use more swears (prybars/screwdrivers/children) and simply push the bolt back in.

It is a bit of a faff but not a bad spring change by any means.

[VroomVroomClonk]

Thank you for all your suggestions and help.
The compressor I have is this one and the quality and fit of it seems fine. The reason I bought that rather than the Sealey one is because the Sealey one isn't threaded for the full length of the rod and this one is. I assumed that lack of thread was the reason b1mcp said a spacer tube needed to be added to get full compression?

Anyway, after many hours of struggling, I have now managed to replace one spring. I used the spring compressor and also undid the inner bolt on the lower link and lowered that on a trolley jack to get more clearance.

But realigning that bolt! What a job! For the benefit of anyone else trying it, I found the best way to put the holes back into alignment was with one trolley jack under the wheel hub raised as far as possible without lifting the car off the axle stands. Another trolley jack under the inner end of the link, and crucially a small ratchet strap diagonally from the inner end of the lower link to the hole in the reinforced plate where the axle stand goes. I found this diagonal pull coupled with juggling the heights of the jacks managed to get rid of the twist in the lower link and enabled the holes to line up.

The one thing I haven't completed yet on this first side, is tightening the inner bolt on the lower link. Does anyone know the correct torque setting please?
Also, because I used lots of WD40 to help get the bolt back in, I didn't put any loctite on it (and there clearly was some on there before), so I am planning to put an additional locknut on the end of the bolt.

[TLPower]

I deserve a huge slice of humble pie. I changed all four springs on my V70 T5 today. Trolley jack and axle stands on the drive. The fronts took an hour per side.

I thought I'd do the fronts first as I expected them to be the easiest after my previous attempts.

The o/s/r took three hours, removal was straight forward, refitting was a complete pain. I ended up using the car's scissor jack to force the hub down to fit the spring (no compressors). The top seat was reluctant to fit fit inside the "cup" and as soon as I fitted the lower in place to top moved out. I eventually managed to fit both ends then the battle of the inner bolt commenced.

I was eventually victorious after and hour of swearing and screw drivers and tyre levers.

The n/s/r was a little better at two hours.

I honestly don't know how I did it so easily on my previous attempts, maybe it's time to admit defeat at crawling underneath cars in my 61st year.

On the bright side I have the o/s/r caliper to reseal tomorrow.....

[VroomVroomClonk]

Well done! I didn't time myself, but you took less time than me.
I still think that T5's must be different and also more difficult to change than the other FWD phase 2 versions.
Mine passed its MoT this week, so at least I have another year of ticket for my pain. One comment the MoT tester did make to me, and it was only an informal verbal comment not even an advisory, was that the nyloc on the additional nuts I added to the inner bolt was only just making contact with the end of the bolt due to the bolt being a fraction too short. But once I told him that the suspension arm was also threaded and my extra nut was locked against that thread even without the nyloc, he understood. However, I realise now that I should have used plain nuts not nyloc so that their purpose is clear.

Let's hope we never need to change them again!

[TLPower]

I have made a solemn and binding oath never to change another V70 rear spring.

In addition to the caliper re-seal I have just ordered some genuine handbrake shoes after I stupidly fitted a set of eurocarparts finest a couple of years ago.

A huge thank you to all who posted in the "handbrake doesn't hold downhill" thread.....

[stuart bowes]

additional note which I only learnt about myself recently

previous advice given by myself and agreed by others was to unbolt the lower swing arm to remove the spring.. that does work but bear in mind it has an effect on the rear toe

I believe it is an eccentric bolt which may have some bearing on how awkward it was to get back in? anyway just bear that in mind and get the wheel alignment checked afterwards, or mark the alignment of the bolt head prior to removal