V50 Engine 2.0D : Injector fuel leak at inlet pipe 2.0d C70 my2008

[BertoneP]

Hi,
So after my sucessfull cam belt and waterpump change, not without many problems though, the only remaining issue now from that job is a leak at the top of one injector.

It's a small diesel fuel leak only happening when the engine is warm, but still a leak...

I took the injector out and removed the inlet pipe, and there was a small aluminium crash seal sitting at the bottom (where the fuel enters the injector at high pressure).

https://ibb.co/SBF2LTP

I replaced it with a new copper seal but that did not fix it. Then I flattened out the original aluminium seal and put some threadlock and some special high temperature resistant silicone seal in the thread, and tightened it down very tight...but still leaking.

I could not find any replacement aluminium seal on the web, and now I'm out of ideas on how to seal the bloddy thing, except welding it to the injector iron body, but then it can't be removed any more

Any ideas? As allways thanks for your support.

[IainG]

Hi
Is it worth just going to a local Diesel Injector repair shop? there are loads around in most areas. Either ask them to do it or see if they have a crush washer?
Have you tried annealing either the copper washer or the aluminium one. Most washers should be annealed before using.
It won't fix any damage to the washer but it will soften it to allow it to deform and seal better.

https://makeitfrommetal.com/how-to-a...ginners-guide/

For Aluminium
How to Get Annealing Right Every Time by Hand
Might as well start with what you’re probably the most interested in.

If you already know that the grade you’re working with can be annealed, and it’s worth doing, here’s how you can nail the annealing (almost) every time:

Get a Sharpie.

Yeah, that stupidly cheap little permanent marker. You’ve probably got 3 in your toolbox right now. It doesn’t matter which kind. It doesn’t even really need to be Sharpie brand (although I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to use them).

Scribble all over the piece of aluminum. Don’t worry about covering it 100%, just enough to leave a mark on every general area.

Now get out your torch. Start heating up the part. Don’t heat it up to fast, and keep the flame moving over the whole part to keep the heat even. You don’t want hot spots. It’s actually really easy to overheat and melt the material (annealing happens at a temp just a hair under the melting point), so be patient and take your time.

You’ll see the sharpie marks changing color. Then, at a certain temperature, they’ll pretty well disappear. That’s the sweet spot that you’re looking for. Quench the aluminum in water and you’re done!

The cool thing about this method is that it gives you a lot of options for heating up the aluminum, based on what you have. You can use an oxyacetylene torch, a propane torch, whatever’s on hand that can get the material up to around 775 F. This is the ultimate DIY way of annealing aluminum.

Iain

[BertoneP]

Yes...I could, but they might want to swap the entire injector and not only sell me the washer...and that would mean 200-300 EUR cost I guess

Not sure if a new washer will fix it though since I already tried a new copper crush washer with identical dimensions as the original washer but with no luck.

No, I did not do this process...

[IainG]

Hi

Originally Posted by BertoneP

Yes...I could, but they might want to swap the entire injector and not only sell me the washer...and that would mean 200-300 EUR cost I guess

Not sure if a new washer will fix it though since I already tried a new copper crush washer with identical dimensions as the original washer but with no luck.

No, I did not do this process...

Might be worth a try with a new copper washer but anneal it first. Google will tell you how to anneal copper.
If that fails then try a injector specialist.
Iain

[BertoneP]

Perhaps I could try teflon tape ?

[BertoneP]

Sorry for taking a while...but it has been busy weeks...

So since I couldn't fix it myself, i crawled to the cross, and took the injector to a Bosch car service that specialises on injectors.

I explained my problem to the shop guy, then he disappeared for 10 min and then he came back with what looked as a new injector. Apparently he had cleaned it and put a new copper washer on the tip and most likely a new small washer where the injector meets the inlet port screw.

I say, "apparently", because he wouldn't answer my questions...he just said that the inport screw had to be torqued extremely high. I asked how much $$ the repair was...but he just went away and said "nothing at all"....I insisted in paying something, but no luck....

Seems there are decent repair shops left in the world after all...

Anyway, installed the injector again and now the leak has gone....BUT a new leak has appeared Now its leaking where the fuel line meets the injector inlet port (blue circle on picture below).

https://ibb.co/9w3bx2h

I guess that fitting a new fuel line would be the best option to resolve the problem...BUT then I would first need to remove the black plastic air inlet manifold since the fuel lines are hidden under it...and I would like to avoid that.

Any other alternative ?
What about putting teflon tape on the junction and then screw it together to see if this stops the fuel seeping???

What a nightmare !!!!

[BertoneP]

So after numerous tightening tries....aligning the loose injector with the tubing...tightening the tubing nut first so that the 2 parts could be free to move a little for a better fit...the leak would not go away...

So I wrapped the two pieces with some teflon tape and screwed it together again and did a test drive and NO LEAKS

I know it's not the best solution, but it's a solution for now...
In Spain we have a saying: "keep put until I get paid"...and if the leak is still gone after some long drives, I think I will not mess with it again.

As i said...the manifold needs to be removed to change the fuel tube and i don't want to risk another problem if the teflon tape does it job. I'll come back if the problem returns.

Thanks all for your support !!!

[Willber G]

Glad you fixed it.

[BertoneP]

Originally Posted by Willber G

Glad you fixed it.

Thanks mate.

I've asked the local Volvo dealer a price for a new tube (part number 30725057)...so I don't discard this repair entierly...but I rather not if the teflon does the trick.