Powerstage Part Numbers

[Navy850]

CNGBiFuel many thanks for a laugh at the end of a rotten day!

Yes, the lhd 'bee in my bonnet' deal is all the images I have looked at are opposite connections to rhd. Ok, makes sense the different vehicles are a mirror image as to the layout of electrical connections between rhd and lhd but my concern is what will I be up against using lhd in a rhd car. First off the bat is my car has absolutely minimal play in the electrical connectors to the resistor and I mean seriously minimal. The lhd resistor connections face left towards the blower while the rhd faces right.... away from the blower. A quick pull and tug revealed there was no way the connectors would reach the lhd resistor. Next the five fins which protrude into the air channel are not centered they are biased towards the bottom of the resistor on rhd and I am unaware of the fitment on lhd where the bias is towards the top, and why is it not centered? . Lastly, I would need to adjust the position of the mounting screw which may be simple but again could turn into a nightmare.
Yes, lots of what if's.......unless I have absolutely no other option then lhd it has to be. I really want things to fit correctly and even if I need to swap the pcb boards and reverse the mosfet fitment then so be it rather than drill new holes and extend electrical wiring.
I have already purchased a fire extinguisher and rest assured no glove box is going back in situ until 6 months have passed without incident. In my short time I have seen too many cars on the M1 hard shoulder burning/burnt out and sadly a 850 R where the fire began on the passenger side. So I am really paranoid about the dangers of high current (blower resistor) minimal access (glove box and knee bolster) lots of flammable material (manuals, paper work and floor mats) and lastly a constant high current 12v even when key removed.
Sorry to waffle on but I hope safety is eveyones number 1 concern.

Thanks again CNGBiFuel but just to clarify there is no relay in the ecc circuit only the manual climate control where it defaults to high speed should there be a failure? Just checking I haven't missed something obvious.
Kind regards again
Andre

[CNGBiFuel]

A quick pull and tug revealed there was no way the connectors would reach the lhd resistor. Next the five fins which protrude into the air channel are not centered they are biased towards the bottom of the resistor on rhd and I am unaware of the fitment on lhd where the bias is towards the top...

I've lost the plot a little here - it can't be too much hassle to extend the loom, as long as you bother to use solder. if you're saying the plug itself is handed, I'm struggling to grasp why it would be, but if you say so? Either way you do this, be minded to its function, I don't think I grasp the problem. Provided the fins don't sit in still air, why worry, the resistor won't?

[CNGBiFuel]

And while you're on, I'd be asking hte deeper question.Why has did the resistor pop in the first instance. If it's burnt out, it's acted a fuse. I'd be looking at the blower-motor going 'short'. That extra current -and thus heat - came from somewhere? My money says, looking at the symptom over a cause might well see this again.

High-current resistors don't 'go' because it's a Tuesday.

[pinballdave]

Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel

I'd be asking hte deeper question.Why has did the resistor pop in the first instance.

Because it's not a resistor as we would know it from the electronics definition of 'resistor'

There are two types of blower 'resistor' module, depending on whether you have climate control or a manual heater. In the manual heater the module contains some power resistors, and a thermal fuse. Typically the failure mode for this one is that the thermal fuse blows, after which the heater fan will only work on the maximum setting.

The 'resistor' module in a climate control car is actually a power electronics module that uses a low power signal from the climate control ECU to control the speed of the fan. These can fail so that the fan won't run at all, or will run at full speed all the time.

The cause of failure for both modules is usually insufficient airflow to cool the module, this can be due to blocked heater vents, clogged up pollen filters, or a failure of the motor. The modules themselves can fail internally without any external cause, this does happen with the climate control version, but is extremely rare for the manual heater version.

[Navy850]

Hello again everyone and thanks for the additional info.
I managed to order a rhd v70 resistor (power electronics module) which looks like a perfect match except the part numbers.
The latest news is the resistor (power electronics module) arrived yesterday and I couldn't wait to fit it, the results however are a little bit encouraging.
Ignition on and blower spins at around 30% power and then stopped after 2 seconds. The lights on the ecc started flashing. I increased the blower speed selector to 90% and then tried again, ignition on and the same results blower spins at approx 30% power and stops after 2 seconds lights flashing. I moved the blower speed selector to 10% and exactly the same results.
I removed the blower and tested it on the bench, it spins fast medium and slow. The plastic cage doesn't free spin there is some resistance but not that much.
I re oiled the bearings and re installed exact same results.
I wiped the dtc codes and re tested same results but I am getting code 124 and 419.
Wiped the codes a few more times and the same results and code 124 and 419.
Not sure where to go from here
Any suggestions would be really helpful
Regards
Andre

[winsox]

Originally Posted by Navy850

Hello again everyone and thanks for the additional info.
I managed to order a rhd v70 resistor (power electronics module) which looks like a perfect match except the part numbers.
The latest news is the resistor (power electronics module) arrived yesterday and I couldn't wait to fit it, the results however are a little bit encouraging.
Ignition on and blower spins at around 30% power and then stopped after 2 seconds. The lights on the ecc started flashing. I increased the blower speed selector to 90% and then tried again, ignition on and the same results blower spins at approx 30% power and stops after 2 seconds lights flashing. I moved the blower speed selector to 10% and exactly the same results.
I removed the blower and tested it on the bench, it spins fast medium and slow. The plastic cage doesn't free spin there is some resistance but not that much.
I re oiled the bearings and re installed exact same results.
I wiped the dtc codes and re tested same results but I am getting code 124 and 419.
Wiped the codes a few more times and the same results and code 124 and 419.
Not sure where to go from here
Any suggestions would be really helpful
Regards
Andre

Hello there !

Code 124 If i remember right is the temp sensor in the grab handle on the drivers side.

You can fix this if you are very carful ! The legs break off and can be put back on if you are delicate with them.

Code 419 means the new item you just fitted isnt sending a feed back signal back to the ECC or it cannot see it. so it does not know if its working or not.

On the 4 pin connection RED should be about 12 volts.

2A Violet White on connector should be 3 volts (4 Volts over current, 0 for fault too)
4A RED 12 volts
1A Yellow Brown On connector is control signal in which is a PWM
3A Grey Red should be 12volts , this drives the logic side of the controller which you have just replace. If this is missing it means there is an issue with the ECC unit.


If you unplug the fan does it stop the flashing lights ?

This info is from the 850 but I think its the same system just a change in style.

Dave

[Navy850]

Winsox, many many thanks for replying,
I followed a factory manual for testing the ecc and power stage resistor and I shall follow your instructions and report back.
So far I tested to ensure ground circuits are good by assuming a dtc 121. Which all are good.
I tested pin 6 and 27 at the ecc and have 0 volts.
I disconnected the power stage plug and checked violet/white wire for a short or open circuit and wire is ok.
I reconnected plug to power stage and checked voltage between pin 6 and 5 and have a close battery voltage of 10.95v.
I disconnected 4 pin connector and checked pin 5 and terminal 3A (grey/red wire) and have continuity.
I shall check the voltages as you suggested and post back.
Many many thanks for your post, hopefully I shall get this sorted.
Regards
Andre

[Navy850]

Winsox, I managed to take the readings tonight so hopefully the following may make sense.
I unplugged the blower at the motor and the lights still flashed. I also unplugged the connector at the blower resistor and the lights still flashed.

4A has 11.58V red wire
2A Violet white wire 0.12v. when I turn ignition on the blower runs and the volts increase to 0.96 then 0.71 then 0.68.....lights flash and then 0.12v
3A grey/red 10.81v
1A yellow/brown, ignition on blower runs 2.68v 2 seconds later lights flash then 0.15v.

I really do not know what any of the voltages mean or what to check next.

Code 124 is on the back burner for now but plan to sort it once I have heat.

Many thanks for your time in replying.
Regards
Andre

[Navy850]

Hello everyone and sorry for the delay.
This is a long story but the short version is I decided to see Barry up north (Bedford) about 65miles northeast of London who has nothing but Volvos on his land. A quick phone call to confim he may have the part, which he seemed somewhat vague about, oddly however he mentioned he has 350 Volvos out back so the part I want must be there.
Well, I decided to make the journey with the missus in tow on the worse day possible freezing cold and rain all the way there. Anyway, we got there and from what I could see the site used to be a petrol station but true to his word there was about 70 Volvos in the front but none of the 850's had ECC. "Not to worry there's more 'round back", he shouts. So off 'round back me heads missus intow and blimey what a sight....probably 400 Volvos in a field stacked 3 high, but...................it looked as though a hurricane had passed through as most cars were on their sides or upside down...a real mess and very sad to be honest. clearly these cars had been there for a long time judging by the moss and weeds which have taken hold.
Ok, so roughly 40 850's and all one were MCC. I noticed all had front facia ripped out so something behind the radio must be a common failure. So the last green 850 N reg 1994/5 I ventured into had a resistor similar to mine but different part number. So I pulled it and tried it in my car and hey presto the blower works and the speed varies too. Brill. £20 lighter we headed home. It was 30miles into my return when I remembered the nice newish tail lights I saw and the clips I need for my roof bar and a tailgate strut but the missus was already miserable so it will have to be another trip sometime in the spring.
I was told by Volvo (Doves) that the ECC version was very rare in the uk and from what I saw it's true.
My original resistor part number 9144355 and the replacement which works part number 9134933.
Thanks for everyones help in getting me here.

[CNGBiFuel]

This encounter with Barry made me chuckle. It's good the solution was put up for the benefit of others.

Barry is 'old skool'. A time-warp (circa 1978) place with a time-warp mindset. It's the antithesis of a main-dealer. Nothing is fake, it's all real, it's a proper breakers-yard. Barry runs an institution, I mean... what could do we expect, of course it's a mess, how could it not be?

When you're there you'll hear 'young' Barry fielding calls from born-yesterday idiots asking for this part or the other,. I mean I ask you, how could Barry know what he's got? He'll gleefully tell you it's a sh*t-heap. It's a breakers-yard. I'm curious to know what else it could be? No hurricane makes it look like it does. It's customers and his 1970s Volvo crane going thru' the mud stacking cars. And I ask you, Barry will never volunteer to send a part that takes 2 hours in labour to remove and pack, when said entitled 'born-yesterday', wants to pay £50?

Best time to go is about now, in Jan/February. Don't 'woosey' it. You're going to be blown side-ways - get yourself fifthteen quids worth of used eBay snowsuit, get it filthy being prepared to roll around in the mud, and/or climb-up to grab what you're after.

One day, and I feel it's very soon. places like Barry's (and the very last of proper pubs) won't exist. And that'll be sad. The 'beard & top-knots' , the "like, like like, likes" and "The bunch ofs" and the "you guys" have nearly won. It'll be an antiseptic world.

I suspect, someone clearly a little greener than me now 'gets' it. And that's good.

The 'L KES' sign has been missing its 'A' for 20 years. If it ever gets its 'A' back, I'd be upset. A Volvo institution, love the place.