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polyurethane bushings shot

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Old Jul 25th, 2020, 15:42   #11
Laird Scooby
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For Polos we used to run nylon/other engineering plastic blocks like these instead of ARB mounts. Designed to correct castor angle of the wheels too when lowering as the ARB would push the lower arms back on the Polos. The round clamps stop lateral movement in the ARB:
That looks suspiciously like Nylatron aka Nylon-66? Very tought, strong engineering plastic.

I like the idea of the round clamps on the bars, are they available for 26mm diameter bars do you know?
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Old Jul 25th, 2020, 20:43   #12
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Good eye, I believe they are nylon filled with molybdenum disulphide. I’ve also seen them made from Delrin and other materials too (including aluminium).

The clamps can be made to any size, just turn them on the lathe, bore them to size and then mill the bolt holes, thread, cut them in half and drill the top halves as through holes. I think you can probably get them pre made as they are a common item.

I’ve thought of them for my 940 as I think the ARB is still shifting in the poly mounting bushes.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 00:01   #13
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Good eye, I believe they are nylon filled with molybdenum disulphide. I’ve also seen them made from Delrin and other materials too (including aluminium).

The clamps can be made to any size, just turn them on the lathe, bore them to size and then mill the bolt holes, thread, cut them in half and drill the top halves as through holes. I think you can probably get them pre made as they are a common item.

I’ve thought of them for my 940 as I think the ARB is still shifting in the poly mounting bushes.
Thats what Nylatron is, Nylon with molybdenum disulphide in. Very good for bushes etc because of the slippery properties but also grips fairly well if machined to the right size.

I'm not sure about using Delrin, it can get errrrrrrrrrrrr a bit exciting when it gets hot, especially if there's any PVC close by!

I saw a heavy aluminium hopper fly off an injection moulding machine because they changed from PVC to Delrin and didn't purge it properly - the two mixed, got hot and exploded in the barrel, sending the hopper flying about 20' up in the air!

I don't have access to a mill although i'm looking at a milling table that converts a normal pillar drill into a (very) basic mill. I could easily spin some collars up on the lathe but the drilling/milling part is where i'd come unstuck. Hence my question about them being commercially available.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 10:37   #14
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Don’t be tempted to buy one of the very cheap milling tables on eBay that are bright green on the base and aluminium. Most arrive broken in the post, I bought one just to try it out (before I bought my Bridgeport) and it arrived broken. Seller sent a replacement and that arrived broken, I got a majority refund and built a working one out of two but then never used it.

I also bought a cheap Chinese mini mill which ate its bearings within a month, spent several months negotiating a refund and they strung it out until just before 6 months then stopped replying and when I tried to get a refund through eBay they would no longer support the process at it had been six months (they know how to manipulate). Fixed it with new bearings that were tapered instead of normal bearings and rebuilt it but it’s still pretty crap really.

Ended up with my Bridgeport which I knew needed work and I’m slowly rebuilding it, I’d rather spend £700 on the Bridgeport and rebuild it then spend money on a cheap mini mill and have to spend more money on that to get it working correctly. Lesson thoroughly learnt.

Problem with a lot of pillar drills is they are only designed to take loading vertically not axially so they flex and eat the bearings. Also a lot have taper lock chucks which can come out under axial load. I’ve looked deeply into it and deemed it a waste of time for myself and what I need but I’ve seen people do it successfully for light machining loads.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 12:00   #15
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Don’t be tempted to buy one of the very cheap milling tables on eBay that are bright green on the base and aluminium. Most arrive broken in the post, I bought one just to try it out (before I bought my Bridgeport) and it arrived broken. Seller sent a replacement and that arrived broken, I got a majority refund and built a working one out of two but then never used it.

I also bought a cheap Chinese mini mill which ate its bearings within a month, spent several months negotiating a refund and they strung it out until just before 6 months then stopped replying and when I tried to get a refund through eBay they would no longer support the process at it had been six months (they know how to manipulate). Fixed it with new bearings that were tapered instead of normal bearings and rebuilt it but it’s still pretty crap really.

Ended up with my Bridgeport which I knew needed work and I’m slowly rebuilding it, I’d rather spend £700 on the Bridgeport and rebuild it then spend money on a cheap mini mill and have to spend more money on that to get it working correctly. Lesson thoroughly learnt.

Problem with a lot of pillar drills is they are only designed to take loading vertically not axially so they flex and eat the bearings. Also a lot have taper lock chucks which can come out under axial load. I’ve looked deeply into it and deemed it a waste of time for myself and what I need but I’ve seen people do it successfully for light machining loads.
Some very good points there and a few better ones!

Funny you should mention those cheap tables on ebay, that's exactly what i've been looking at. Several reasons for this. I don't have the space or budget for a Bridgeport or the floor for it. Also i'm really only going to be machining light stuff, primarily aluminium with the occasional foray onto steel. It will also only be occasional use on anything so i think i can probably get away with the pillar drill.

As you can see, i've given it a lot of thought too but from a slightly different direction to what i suspect you've taken. As such i've arrived at a different result but if it was a case of money and space no object, it would be a Bridgeport mill, Colchester lathe etc but a 10 x 6 shed that already houses a lathe (Myford ML1 circa 1943 manufacture), pillar drill, arc welder, bench grinder, manual tyre changer, static wheel balancer and a few other things not to mention a few hand tools you can see my problem on space alone.

If i win the lottery and everything changes then i'll have my dream workshop which will have a "museum corner" of how i used to do it. Until that time comes (if ever!) i'll plod on with my existing museum corner!
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 12:07   #16
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You’ll be super jealous of me then, we just extended the shed to make more room as the Lathe and Mill were taking up all the room. I’ve got a Colchester Chipmaster as my lathe, I’ve still got my Super 7 but it needs a rebuild.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 13:12   #17
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You’ll be super jealous of me then, we just extended the shed to make more room as the Lathe and Mill were taking up all the room. I’ve got a Colchester Chipmaster as my lathe, I’ve still got my Super 7 but it needs a rebuild.
Definitely! No room to extend the shed even if i could, wanted to and had the money to do it!

My old ML1 is the great grand daddy of the Super 7, that came a few years after mine. It's a bit bruised and battered from time and use and the headstock bearings are shot but i still manage passable results with it. I'm looking into converting the headstock bearings to ball bearings as the original white metal bearings are NLA and even the update kit consistinf of new phosphor bronze bearings and a new hardened shaft aren't guaranteed to fit mine - cost is also against it as i could buy a new or very good secondhand Clarke CL300 lathe for not much more and have a guarantee!
Yes, they're chalk and cheese as machines but for the amount of my use, that wouldn't be a problem.

You probably already know of this site but if not, it could come in useful for your Super 7 when you rebuild it :

http://www.lathes.co.uk/

Loads of documents for reference, parts for sale (including some new) and so on - a bit of a cyber-Aladdins Cave for a hobby machinist!
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Old Jul 28th, 2020, 09:53   #18
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I’ve already had it apart once to get the clutch working (avoid the S7 Mk1 clutches...they suck) still doesn’t work as well as it should as people have bodged it over the years. Mine needs the phosphor bronze bearing replacing as it’s able to flex the spindle back under light cuts and it’s out of adjustment (I could make a bigger spacer to go behind the nut).
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Old Jul 28th, 2020, 11:04   #19
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I’ve already had it apart once to get the clutch working (avoid the S7 Mk1 clutches...they suck) still doesn’t work as well as it should as people have bodged it over the years. Mine needs the phosphor bronze bearing replacing as it’s able to flex the spindle back under light cuts and it’s out of adjustment (I could make a bigger spacer to go behind the nut).
THere's no clutch on mine, direct belt drive only. You're lucky yours already has the phosphor brinze bearings, mine is still on the white metal bearings (NLA) and some clever idiot has drilled through the top bearing cap and tapped it to insert a grub screw to push the white metal bearing closer to the shaft to prevent the spindle flex you describe.

I'm more or less decided on getting my current lathe projects finished and then saving up for something like a Clarke CL300, not the ideal choice but should be fairly well supported for some time to come and then selling my Myford for restoration. I know there are enthusiasts out there that would like to own one of the rarer Myford lathes (only made for about 6 months during 1943 as far as i've been able to ascertain) and restore it. For me that's not a viable proposition though.
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Old Jul 28th, 2020, 13:22   #20
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Myford stuff has gone through the roof due to the convenient size. I paid £500 for mine from a local Myford dealer but I suspect it’d be a lot more now (not as much as one with a gearbox on it though, mine only has the change gears).
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