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So what's the best course of action now..

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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 06:22   #1
CathDog
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Default So what's the best course of action now..

The backstory: I bought the car, V50 1.6 Diesel Drive, which I am growing to really love and appreciate and take a bit of an interest in, a month ago.

After a couple of weeks I noticed the lh front tire was looking flatter and sure enough I had to put quite a bit of air in it.

The Test: I did a little tire pressure test,

The Friday before I pumped all the tires to 36 PSI, I noticed the lh front tire was down to 15 PSI so I thought just check the tire pressure again, the same time, same place next Friday and see what the pressure is then.

3 of the tires lost about 3 PSI each (36 PSI to 33 PSI) but the lh front one was down to 19 PSI, expected bcs of the history but still a bit ..

I did a 330km commute between the 7 day test.

The Question: How long can I drive on this tire?

These are the tires

lhf (dodgy a) - COOPER ZEON C58 - 205/50ZR17 93W XL (FE=C, DB=70,WG=A) £75
rhf - ROADSHINE RS922 - 205/50R17 93W XL (?)
lhr - SAFERICH FRC26 - 205/50R17 93W XL (FE=C,DB=71,WG=B) £50
rhr - COOPER ZEON C58 - 205/50ZR17 93W XL (FE=C, DB=70,WG=A) £75

Last edited by CathDog; Jul 7th, 2018 at 06:40.
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 06:38   #2
Skaartj
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Well for a start im sure you shouldnt have different tyres on the drive axle so i would be putting the 2 cooper ones on the front and then put the other 2 on the back for now while you either get a matching one for either the ones on the back or get 2 new ones
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 08:04   #3
Billggski
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It sounds like it has a slow puncture, either a nail, a faulty valve, or a leaking seal, either around the valve or the rim. Get it checked as running wirh low pressure will ruin it as well as being dangerous,
Losing an even 3psi on the other 3 could just be the difference between hot and cold tyres.
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 10:23   #4
CathDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billggski View Post
It sounds like it has a slow puncture, either a nail, a faulty valve, or a leaking seal, either around the valve or the rim. Get it checked as running wirh low pressure will ruin it as well as being dangerous,
Losing an even 3psi on the other 3 could just be the difference between hot and cold tyres.
ah ok, I suspect its just a slow puncture too, the reason being, when I bought it the garage hadn't noticed the rhf tire was almost flat until I pointed it out, when I paid for it a week later I asked if they had fixed the tire and he said he hadn't had any trouble with it since that day and he had rotated the tires.. so I think he put this one on the left and its just doing its slow puncture thing there..

tbh I thought it wasnt possible to fix a slow puncture car tyre? the tire has a reasonable amount of tread left, nowhere near the 'tread markers' so it might be worth saving. googling it says you can take it to Halfords or wherever and they will try.

Anyone tried this or is this just a lure to get you in to sell you a new tire? and I need to do some research on what new tyre.

Is it cost effective?, googling the tyre is worth 75£ or so..

Last edited by CathDog; Jul 7th, 2018 at 10:27.
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 10:24   #5
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im sure you know of "blackcircles" for decent tyre prices ?

as said above it would be a lot better if you had the same type of tyre on the same end
coopers together on the front or rear, and a same make/type on the other end

Quote:
Tyres from £52.98 to £64.96

Fully fitted price includes VAT, delivery, fitting, balancing, new rubber valve & disposal of old tyres
Blackcircles.com
Blackcircles.com Value Choice
Value Choice
Read More

205/50 R17 W (93)

4.5/5

( 15 reviews )
Tyre Label
Tyre Fuel Efficiency Rating: E
Tyre Wet Grip Rating:C
Noise Emission / Exterior Noise: 71 dBs, 2 Bars
Fully fitted price
£52.98
Taurus
Taurus Ultra High Performance
Ultra High Performance
Read More

205/50 R17 W (93)

4.7/5

( 15 reviews )
Tyre Label
Tyre Fuel Efficiency Rating: C
Tyre Wet Grip Rating:C
Noise Emission / Exterior Noise: 72 dBs, 2 Bars
Fully fitted price
£55.99
Lifetime Guarantee on this Blackcircles.com Quality Choice tyre
Blackcircles.com
Blackcircles.com Quality Choice
Quality Choice
Read More

205/50 R17 W (93)

4.6/5

( 212 reviews )
Tyre Label
Tyre Fuel Efficiency Rating: C
Tyre Wet Grip Rating:B
Noise Emission / Exterior Noise: 71 dBs, 2 Bars
Fully fitted price
£56.99
Lifetime Guarantee on this Blackcircles.com Quality Choice tyre
Rotalla
Rotalla RU01
RU01
Read More

205/50 R17 W (93)

4.6/5

( 70 reviews )
Tyre Label
Tyre Fuel Efficiency Rating: C
Tyre Wet Grip Rating:B
Noise Emission / Exterior Noise: 69 dBs, 1 Bar
Fully fitted price
£64.96
Lifetime Guarantee on this Blackcircles.com Quality Choice tyre
just a snapshot of 4 in the up to £65 list from blackcircles

sorry theres no real answer to "how long can i drive on it" ,, it depends Why the tyre is going flat, if its a leaking valve then it will be longer than a nail ,, or a leak on the rim,, unfortunately its a "sooner/soon as you can" thing rather than a "leave it a while" (as In case it is a nail/other and causes a blow out @ speed or goes and has a "nope im Flat" while you are away from your pump,, plus the additional wear/damage to the tyre walls when driving on a low pressure increases the risk of failure, and if it is a nail type hole it Could be repaired , a leaky valve isnt That much to replace , ditto a leaking seal,, a tyre specialist wouldnt want that much to find + fix either of those 3,,, **i do not consider kwickfit a tyre shop never mind specialist,, infact i would ask for a second opinion if they advised me water is wet,,,, )
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 10:42   #6
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Ive got lots of new tyre questions... lots, because I spent my Saturday morning googling tyres.

like given the weather last Christmas and my long commute and hills in Bristol and my small flat? I just can't imagine buying winter tyres and summer tyres (you would have to store one set somewhere?) and then there is the hassle and expense of changing tyres and hoping the tyre co you use doesn't make things worse (like the reviews for f1autocenters and my local) so why not buy all season tyres.. no trips to tyre centres, someone messing with my car or changing costs?

If I get all season tyres can I migrate to them one tyre at a time .. or is an all or nothing thing?

plus I hate the C grade roll on the all seasons though.. I bought the Volvo bcs of its great mpg and 20£ road tax and then to put non A grade roll tyres on it sticks in my throat and I don't want to buy them so I am stuck with buying summer tyres..

What do people do now with our winter weather, there was ice on our hills and around our homes on the road and the road is littered with parked cars its an accident waiting to happen if you just have summer tires on? Is there a way to turn summer tires into winter?
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 11:41   #7
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If you're not driving on snow or ice, winter tyres don't make sense.

That's hard to predict, obviously, so I keep a spare set of wheels with winters fitted, and I put them on in December and swap them back in March (this year it was May!) If nothing else it saves wear on my summer tyres (which are all weather Rainsport 3s when I get to choose, but I'm currently wearing down the ones that came with the car)

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Is there a way to turn summer tires into winter?
No.

Last edited by baldmosher; Jul 7th, 2018 at 11:44.
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 11:43   #8
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personal POV

winter/summer tyres ,, a Lovely marketing Bulldust thing to gain sales

reason for that,, oh 30years driving And riding motorbikes on Tyres
yes i fitted Soft compound tyres to the motorbikes,, they gripped well and did not last long (3k miles if i was lucky)

"ah but,,,,," will get said for the winter/summer tyres,, b*****hit end of they fell for the marketing booolarcks to sell 2 sets of tyres for every car they could not just 1,,,,,


i had my S40 , for 9 + years, including 2 Bad ass winters with Deep snow and -15c temps,, (deep snow - more than a foot,, unlike the idiots now that thing 2 inches of snow is deep and cant drive) i lived Up a cul-de-sack that was Never gritted, and had compacted snow that got polished by the audi/bwm owners who spun the wheels up/down the road before they gave up and abandoned the car blocking the road or left it at the bottom of the hill,, me i toddled up in the Auto S40 with Toyo proxi Tr-1 on,(omg you cant use those they arnt winter tyres !!, and i Didnt even use "W" setting on the gearbox ,, my sister lives the other side the city up a nice steep hill,, same tyres, same "up we go" and still didnt need the W button,,


Fit "all season" tyres, dont buy into the bs "winte r/ summer" tyre con,, 2 sets of wheels,, storage issues (cost and how the tyres were stored affecting the rubber/rims)

IF we get a bad winter,, its a FWD car, use 2nd or 3rd gear to start off and,, drive according to the conditions/road Adding in "theres snow on the ground," think/look and plan ahead and do things Gradually,, as in accelerate and brake Gently and the same for steering inputs,, "smooth is good "


as for "all at once or one at a time" ,,
It would be "the best" to do the lot all in one go,,
BUT reality bites ,,
IF possible do the tyres in a pair "front pair" then back pair
"oh pants im skint and have a buggered tyre" = replace the dead one ,,and get the other of the pair As soon as possible,,


also
if you have 205/50 on the car ,, and change one or two to 205/55 your ABS will have a wobble and throw the error light on over a speed (the tyres are different,, so the abs measurments will be out when the car gets to XX mph,,depending on how big/small a difference there is between the tyres) so IF you change tyre size change all 4 at the same time,, if its like for like size it doesnt matter
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 12:27   #9
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Tyre obsessive here. Really don't like the cheaper brands - I believe the quality differences are lifesavers, literally: Spend on tyres before anything else on the car. Which is what I was telling myself when I holed a P7 while on a massive euro trip a couple of months ago - the only thing I could get that day right where I was, was Continentals, which on every other car I have not liked at all. On the V50 though.... brilliant! I think that's a measure of the awfulness of what was there before, though.

I've had the Michelin Cross-climate on the previous car (V70 D5) and tested them deep in the alps on that funny white slippery stuff: they were brilliant. Somewhat noisier and less grippy *laterally* but brilliant traction fore/aft. So they are usable - though on that car I had Potenzas on the back while the Michelins were on the front. Had I kept it, I would have swapped them over for the summer - the rear tyres on all our cars are very lightly loaded.

In your situation I would:

* get one pair of quality tyres and put them on the front axle. Potenza/Falkens/Yokos for the performance nuts, but in your case I would read up very carefully on the original equipment tyre make and model, becuase yours is an economy car and the tyres play a big part in the overall design.

* put your pair of Coopers on the back wheels, asking the tyre depo to see if the leaky one is repairable. If it's a main-tread small hole then you might be in luck; other likely causes are frilly valves and corroded rims, in which case again doing the diagnostics in a tyre bay means that various near-bodges (new valve, sandpapering the rim contact slot, etc) are possible in the middle of the job.
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 21:21   #10
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Thank you everyone, I didn't know about the hot/cold tire pressure to trying to get the tire fixed to buying all season or not, so thank you for my tire education.

I put some local to work garage numbers to call to see if they fix tires.

Re All season tyres, it seems that the main tyre sellers who also fit only sell the premium tyres Michelin CrossClimate+ at 110£ etc, I put some prices of all season tyres to get it clear in my head and for anyone else too in case they are in the same boat. have I missed anything?

I am curious, I drive 55 on the motorway, I sometimes hit 60.. by accident.. if im not paying attention... and then I think I have to check myself.... I love following big trucks .. I can't imagine I will every need a 93W.. price wise there doesn't seem to be any reasonable saving going down, so I might as well just stick with the 93W

The strategy in my head is, (that might not make financial sense really since I think wouldn't it cost more to swap tyres in and out than it would to just buy new tyres and get it over with), is to use the these summer tyres in the summers and then put all weather tyres on in the winters and then put the summer ones back on in the summer until I wear them out and then replace them with the all weather ones that I have already bought as each one of the summer tires wears out..

I'm thinking, what if the garage can't fix the tire, will they laugh at me if ask to put 1 or 2 all weather ones on (say on the back) and keep the rest 3 or 2 summer ones on the front , half /half or ¼ / ¾ until winter, then add the rest all weather.. I just don't want to buy another summer tire if im going to go the all weather route..

Formula one autocenters
- Pirelli Cinturato All Season 93W XL - ?/?/? - 108 ,
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 110,
- Michelin Cross Climate 93W XL - C/A/68 - 140
- Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons G2 93W XL AS - C/B/68 - 119

National Tyres and autocare
- Pirelli Cinturato All Season Plus 93W - ?/?/? - 118,
- Michelin CrossClimate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 127.50

Halford
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 129

BlackCircle
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 133

Tyre on the drive (I get a 5% work discount there)
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 139
- Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons G2 93W XL AS - C/B/68 - 129

Just Tyres
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 133

ProTyre
- Michelin Cross Climate+ 93W XL - C/B/69 - 134

Last edited by CathDog; Jul 7th, 2018 at 22:57. Reason: removed the non 93W tires
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