Jacked up the car and this happened...

[El Padrino]

I used the Volvo recommended jacking point (used to change the wheel) to jack up the car with a trolley jack and this happened ☹️ Anything I can do myself so it doesn't get any worse? Regret using that point now. Used a puck on trolley jack too.

[volvo again]

Only real option, I think, is to remove all underseal back to bare metal & reweld jacking point.
Of course, if there's rusty metal it may need a patch welded in...

[Lancee]

The original (car supplied) jack and hopefully any trolley jack should be able to "move" in relationship to the car as the car lifts and tilts.

I suspect the use of a trolley jack unable to do so directly on the original jacking point has applied incorrect forces resulting in the damage shown.

I further suspect the previously suggested should provide a solution.

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by El Padrino

I used the Volvo recommended jacking point (used to change the wheel) to jack up the car with a trolley jack and this happened ☹️ Anything I can do myself so it doesn't get any worse? Regret using that point now. Used a puck on trolley jack too.

paint it to stop rust buy a bottle jack to use under a strong part on the car .those jacking points were not good when the cars were new and the genuine volvo jack is not the best only for emergency repair wheel change ect

[ITSv40]

In one respect you were lucky to expose all that rust lurking under the underseal. The only course of action is to remove all the underseal back to good metal and - as others have said - repair the rusty metal and then treat against future corrosion. I would also check the other side for corroosion and general condition.

[El Padrino]

Thanks for everyone's replies on this. What I intended to do was jack up the car enough to get an axle stand under the side I was going to work on. I should have jacked the car up on the subframe now on the triangular looking plate that I've seen on another thread. I couldn't at first slide the trolley jack with the rubber pad under the car to position it under the subframe, as my car is a V70R which sits quite low. I didn't want to use the original spare wheel jack in case this sort of thing happened, as I've read they are not that great.

As you said ITSv40, I suppose it reveals the rust under the underseal to be taken care of. I didn't think there would be any rust on these Volvos as I thought they were all galvanised since 1985. Not a job I expected to do, but I'll get whatever needs rewelded on the jacking point areas to make sure they are strong enough in the event I did have to use them with the spare wheel jack.

Has anyone had all the rust removed from the underside and resealed recently? What are the approximate costs? Which exact parts underneath should be done? From what I could see of the front subframe, it didn't look rusty and advisories about any underside corrision hasn't been brought to my attention at each service.

[DaveNP]

There's a 'sticky' thread at the top of the 850/x70 forum about rust and there have been quite a few others over the years. We probably lull ourselves into a false sense of security with the 'Volvos don't rust' mantra and then some critical areas like the wheel arches and door cills are actually hidden behind plastic trim pieces. If you're going to get the jacking point welded probably worth taking that plastic trim off and checking the hidden bits of the cills.

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by El Padrino

Thanks for everyone's replies on this. What I intended to do was jack up the car enough to get an axle stand under the side I was going to work on. I should have jacked the car up on the subframe now on the triangular looking plate that I've seen on another thread. I couldn't at first slide the trolley jack with the rubber pad under the car to position it under the subframe, as my car is a V70R which sits quite low. I didn't want to use the original spare wheel jack in case this sort of thing happened, as I've read they are not that great.

As you said ITSv40, I suppose it reveals the rust under the underseal to be taken care of. I didn't think there would be any rust on these Volvos as I thought they were all galvanised since 1985. Not a job I expected to do, but I'll get whatever needs rewelded on the jacking point areas to make sure they are strong enough in the event I did have to use them with the spare wheel jack.

Has anyone had all the rust removed from the underside and resealed recently? What are the approximate costs? Which exact parts underneath should be done? From what I could see of the front subframe, it didn't look rusty and advisories about any underside corrision hasn't been brought to my attention at each service.

I do wonder if all that underseal is factory original or 'rust cover' by a previous owner. My C70 is factory original underneath and there is very little underseal .- just small patches applied in strategic places. The whole shell appears to be phosphate dipped and that is sufficient protection to prevent rust, along with seam sealer. The only light surface rust present is on the underside of the rear chassis rail immediately above the exhaust - everywhere else is like new. One interesting feature: all the under body bolts - subframe mounting etc - are all covered with a squirt of underseal, thus protecting the bolts from corrosion.

[El Padrino]

Originally Posted by DaveNP

There's a 'sticky' thread at the top of the 850/x70 forum about rust and there have been quite a few others over the years. We probably lull ourselves into a false sense of security with the 'Volvos don't rust' mantra and then some critical areas like the wheel arches and door cills are actually hidden behind plastic trim pieces. If you're going to get the jacking point welded probably worth taking that plastic trim off and checking the hidden bits of the cills.

Thanks DaveNP, I was thinking the same and getting the other common rust areas looked at too at the same time. Thanks for the reminder of the rust 'sticky' at the top. I think if this unfortunate incident didn't happen yesterday, I would have been thinking she was rust free and carried on as normal. Luckily this unfortunate incident happened.

[duke1]

Originally Posted by El Padrino

Thanks DaveNP, I was thinking the same and getting the other common rust areas looked at too at the same time. Thanks for the reminder of the rust 'sticky' at the top. I think if this unfortunate incident didn't happen yesterday, I would have been thinking she was rust free and carried on as normal. Luckily this unfortunate incident happened.

hi on mine under the plastic cover on the sills was hidden rust about the size of a waffle and i cut it out and welded in a very neat patch then used a structural seam sealer and new fixings for the covers as you end up breaking them or drilling them out to get it off.
also the rear bumper mounts and rear exhaust mount on the body are regular rust spots.
tackled all but 1 area of rust on mine and thats next springs job!