240 General: prop shaft bearing

[PTJS]

Hi All

I seem to recall sometime ago a tip regarding putting a few drops of oil onto the prop half shaft union to help it on its way if it is dry. I have tried to find this on previous threads but seem to have missed it. Can anyone refresh my memory as to where exactly the oil is applied ie is it onto the rubber doughnut? I've been getting a bit of clutch judder when pulling away from cold and wondered whether this might be the cause.

Cheers

Phil

[Andrew (UK)]

Clutch judder is probably due to a leaking rear main seal.

To lubricate the centre bearing you need to get the oil/grease to the bearing which sits inside the rubber doughnut. I believe the recommended way is a grease gun with a needle attachment but I'm not sure if you can still get hold of them.

[gary austin]

hi i also have a shudder on one of my 240s when pulling away is the bearing the cause or is it something else cheers gary

[Rich 264]

I think the centre bearings are the sealed for life type, they're about £8 and easy enough to replace. If the rubber donut is ancient it will probably be allowing the prop to thrash about.

If I remember, judder is usually down to wear in the prop itself, with the two sections slopping about, I haven't looked it up but I think there may be a means of taking up the slack within the splined section, although I haven't done it myself and I have not looked it up to substantiate what I am saying. All from my flawed and hazy memory. If I think on I'll get the manual out when I have more time!

[dodgyken]

The whole assembly is relatively easy to replace - as the exhaust does not need removing. The parts are cheap - and if you have a spare couple of hours it isn't the worse job to get out of the way.

[Clifford Pope]

I have always been an advocate of the odd drop of oil in the bearing. Not because of vibration, but they can get noisy when dry and make a noise reminiscent of a failing rear axle or wheel bearings.

It is vital not to get any oil or grease on the doughnut. If you do the bearing casing will spin in the rubber housing.
Drop the support cross member, prise the doughnut along the shaft so that the bearing is clear, then brush it scrupulously clean. Using a small screwdriver lift up the fibreboard seal a fraction, at the top, and run in a few drops of oil from an ordinary can. Spin the bearing to distribute the oil, and pop the lifted seal back firmly into place. Wipe clean.
Then slide the doughnut back into place, easing the lips over the bearing housing with a screwdriver.

It's an easy job taking a matter of minutes, and lasts hundreds of thousands of miles.

[PTJS]

Thanks to all contributors for your help in clarifying this for me.

Phil

[dome]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I have always been an advocate of the odd drop of oil in the bearing. Not because of vibration, but they can get noisy when dry and make a noise reminiscent of a failing rear axle or wheel bearings.

It is vital not to get any oil or grease on the doughnut. If you do the bearing casing will spin in the rubber housing.
Drop the support cross member, prise the doughnut along the shaft so that the bearing is clear, then brush it scrupulously clean. Using a small screwdriver lift up the fibreboard seal a fraction, at the top, and run in a few drops of oil from an ordinary can. Spin the bearing to distribute the oil, and pop the lifted seal back firmly into place. Wipe clean.
Then slide the doughnut back into place, easing the lips over the bearing housing with a screwdriver.

It's an easy job taking a matter of minutes, and lasts hundreds of thousands of miles.

'Fibreboard seal'? Mine looks like rubber / plastic and it is firmly placed under the metal bearing lip. Volvo 242 DL 1984.

[Clifford Pope]

The first step is to establish whether the problem really is the bearing. Drop the bearing support member, ease the rubber doughnut clear of the ball race, and try spinning the race. If it's fine, then the problem is elsewhere.

If it sounds rough, you've nothing to lose by trying a drop of oil. Dig a small screwdriver or spile into the edge of the seal - rubber, plastic, whatever it is and lever it a fraction clear of the metal, and then inject some oil. Spin the bearing and let the oil work into the ball race, and see if it improves.

All I've ever done that on have responded well. I've never actually replaced a bearing, even after 400,000 miles.

The rubber doughnut is meant to flop about - it's alarming but true. I once replaced one that seemed to me to be worn out. The new one was exactly the same.

If the ball race is OK, look carefully at the spider joints. There should be no play, either sideways or rotationally, but the joint should be free to move in two directions. If a needle race is stiff it will cause vibration. Sometimes there is a threaded plug which you can remove with an allan key to fit a grease nipple.