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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 11:35   #11
Steve 940
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Hi,

Thanks for everyone’s input, interesting what Forrest mentions about it being there to quieten main pump, as a noisy main pump is what I’m trying to resolve.

Think I’ll get it up on stands and try to improvise a stethoscope to see if that sheds any light on it.

Mine is a ‘94 Wentworth also, so perhaps they just fitted these to that model.

Cheers
Steve
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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 11:53   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
Hi,

Thanks for everyone’s input, interesting what Forrest mentions about it being there to quieten main pump, as a noisy main pump is what I’m trying to resolve.

Think I’ll get it up on stands and try to improvise a stethoscope to see if that sheds any light on it.

Mine is a ‘94 Wentworth also, so perhaps they just fitted these to that model.

Cheers
Steve
It seems to have been retrofitted to some cars as well.

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...1/1389725.html
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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 12:09   #13
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
Hi,

Thanks for everyone’s input, interesting what Forrest mentions about it being there to quieten main pump, as a noisy main pump is what I’m trying to resolve.

Think I’ll get it up on stands and try to improvise a stethoscope to see if that sheds any light on it.

Mine is a ‘94 Wentworth also, so perhaps they just fitted these to that model.

Cheers
Steve
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Volvo 240 2.3l Fuel Injected 1985, 1986, 1987
Volvo 740 2.3l Fuel Injected 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992
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Volvo 760 2.3l Fuel Injected Turbo 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990
Volvo 760 2.8l Fuel Injected 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990
Volvo 780 2.3l Fuel Injected Turbo 1989, 1990, 1991
Volvo 780 2.8l Fuel Injected 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990

List of what it's fitted to ^^^^^ and the link :

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...1/1389725.html

Note that's a USA site and they didn't get the B200 in the 7/9xx stateside so you won't find yours there if it's a B200 - same pumps (on the whole) were used for mechanically similar drivetrains though, turbo and bigger engines had higher capacity pumps i believe.

PS - fitting a new in-tank pump will no doubt solve some of the noise from the main pump but if memory serves, you've ordered a new main pump too so that should certainly solve it! If it doesn't then bypass the damper with a length of 12mm bore fuel hose (R9 or above rated) from the hard line from the tank to the inlet on the main pump.
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Last edited by Laird Scooby; Nov 5th, 2021 at 12:11.
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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 19:59   #14
Steve 940
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Thanks so much for everyone's great input, I'm sure it'll be invaluable in the very near future.

When I looked at it at the dealer 4-5 weeks ago, i enquirer about the whirring noise, so part of the deal was for new main pump and filter.

Of course, on collecting still making the noise, and classic dealer quote of ' think they all do that"😀😀

Dave, yes I have ordered the Airtex in tank pump, and Bosch main pump, looks like pumps from US should arrive next week so that's next weekend on my knees in the boot, thank god I didn't buy a saloon!!!!


If the in tank pump swop doesn't fix the noise, would it be advisable to bypass the pulsing reduction 'thingy' will one length of hose from the filter/main pump assembly back to the tank?? Thinking of minimising joins, I think from reading endless bits and bobs on this, someone had mentioned hard line goes behind tank, thinking of zip tying at say every 6"-8" to what would be defunct old fuel hardline.

Cheers
Steve
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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 20:28   #15
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post

If the in tank pump swop doesn't fix the noise, would it be advisable to bypass the pulsing reduction 'thingy' will one length of hose from the filter/main pump assembly back to the tank?? Thinking of minimising joins, I think from reading endless bits and bobs on this, someone had mentioned hard line goes behind tank, thinking of zip tying at say every 6"-8" to what would be defunct old fuel hardline.

Cheers
Steve
It was me said the hard line goes above the tank. You'll lose two joins by removing the damper and linking the hard line on the damper inlet straight to the fuel pump inlet - the points ringed in blue :



The hard line is nylon so won't be a problem, unless you really have to drop the tank to do it then i'd say link out as indicated by the blue circles and call it good as you'd have to drop the tank to get at the rear end of the hard line anyway.

On that length of a run in rubber hose, i doubt cable tie/zip-ties/tie-wraps would be passable for MoT purposes so another reason to just remove the damper and join the hard line to the pump.
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Old Nov 5th, 2021, 21:27   #16
Steve 940
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Duly noted, very good valid points Dave.

If I need to, then I will bypass it as suggested, thanks so much once again.

Must get my mind round to the workings of a modern day MOT tester, been driving relatively modern stuff for last 25 yrs or so, but spent early years following passing my test mostly under first car Mk1 Escort 1300E or numerous Minis, none of which ever worked as originally intended.

Managed to write off my Escort whilst pushing it of the road after stalling in heavy rain at a T junction on a main A road!!!

Oh happy days, oh how I wished I still had that first car, vinyl roof..........

Cheer
Steve
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