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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Random brake pedal travel issueViews : 1583 Replies : 38Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 11th, 2021, 23:08 | #21 | |
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It is, as you hint at, best practice to always renew the fluid, especially when fitting a new MC as the warranty will probably be void if you don't renew the fluid. Same goes for new PAS racks and i wonder when anybody last changed their PAS fluid? Just a thought - why are we even having this conversation? This is our safety and that of others, not to mention our cars that we've probably invested a lot of time, money and care in over the years in varying proportions. We're pontifficating on the paltry amount of money to renew the fluid to preserve the braking system, why are we piffing about like this? It shouldn't need a discussion, we should just be changing the brake fluid at regular intervals instead. I recently bought a simple tester for about a fiver on ebay, it's a simple go/no-go tester with half a dozen LEDs, first shows it's working, next few show from 0% to 5% in 1% stages of contamination (presumably water as that will alter the intrinsic resistance of the fluid) and by the time it's reading 5% the last two LEDs are red - red for danger and the "suggestion" in the instructions is that 2% or more, change the fluid! When i last checked my Volvo a few months ago it was 1-2% depending exactly where in the the reservoir i poked it in. On my Rover last year it was off the scale - no surprise really, the plan was to change it immediately after getting it back from the MoT and i still adhered to that plan. Thanks to the sheer incompetence of the garage doing the MoT it took 6 months to get it back and by then it had been sitting so the corrosion had time to take hold. During changing the fluid, the MC popped but luckily i had a spare and plenty of fluid. I'd also managed to create a bespoke cap to fit the reservoir to use the Gunsons Easibleed thankfully so it took about 45 minutes in total to renew the pads and fluid all round after changing the MC and then readjust the handbrake.
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Sep 12th, 2021, 01:40 | #22 |
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Brake fluid is not expensive. The consequences of not changing it regularly, are.
Even the price charged by my local main dealer to do it makes me wonder why I'm even bothering to do it myself. Filling the fuel tank costs considerably more. People on this forum generally care about their cars and keeping them in good order. This is why we discuss such things here. it is a sobering thought that there must be many vehicles out there where the fluid is never given a thought and effectively lasts the life of the vehicle. Martin. |
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Sep 12th, 2021, 08:39 | #23 | |
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I totally agree with your assertion that it's important and should be done regularly, but the only way to do it properly is to flush it out through all four bleed nipples, which is far more time consuming, and one of the main reasons that I always do it myself. Next time you get a dealer to do it, check the bleed nipples afterwards, my money says that none of them will show any signs of having been touched. Cheers!
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Sep 12th, 2021, 10:34 | #24 | |
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Also on lease cars with servicing included, many lease companies will only pay for the absolute basics - no lube on the door hinges, locks and latches, no screenwash fluid just water in the reservoir - the penny-pinching goes on. Most of this doesn't impact the first owner/driver as the car is usually on a 3-5 year lease and changed for a new one, it's the second and subsequent owners that pay for this wilful neglect. Oh yeah, the penny-pinching extends to not changing the brake fluid properly!
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Sep 12th, 2021, 10:52 | #25 | ||
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
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If you prefer, yet a standard multimeter does the same. Spend the money on fluid, and at two years do it anyway. Leave race-fluids or so called high-performance stuff out of it. They suck-up water so well they want doing in months, or ideally each race. For road-use they're worse. And when they're not doing that, going to neat acid, all that water boils. Ouch. Cheap is actually best. Quote:
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Bifuel V70 Classic 1999 [The Old Grumpy in the Corner, "When I was a lad... blah, bl**dy blah."] Last edited by CNGBiFuel; Sep 12th, 2021 at 11:24. |
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Sep 12th, 2021, 11:27 | #26 | |
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A replacement brake fluid tester is still cheaper than a decent set of multimeter probes so i now which one i'm going with! Most dealerships will always go for the quick, easy, cheap option. Most mechanics are (or at least were) on productivity bonus so they do the same. As our American counterparts say, go figure!
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Sep 12th, 2021, 11:34 | #27 | |
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Anything less is a breach of the trades description act, not to mention making them a thief and dangerous B*stard. Never assume anything with garages. Ask directly what they plan to do for the money & if in doubt ask for the old parts in a box and receipts for new parts as proof of works. If they don't like it - tough - you can take your business elsewhere or get the spanners out yourself. The actions of a few greedy idiots (or lot depending on which newspaper you read) tar the reputation of the true professionals - and that's just not in the mechanical trade either. Sad state of affairs. Regarding the OP: Change the MC, change all the fluid and put 4 new bleed nipples in for the next guy. |
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Sep 12th, 2021, 11:38 | #28 |
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
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In short, for road-use, the best brake-fluid is not the fluid sold with hog-wash about high wet or dry boil points. It's fluid you'll change most often. Fresh budget fluid will wipe the floor over pricey stuff that's six months older.
For most of us, brake-fluid is about change-interval, and the cheap stuff may have lower boil points, yet doesn't get wet so fast. For road-use you won't boil brake-fluid anyway, but you will boil the water in it. Water boils... and water makes that acid. Cheap fluid and change it often.
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Bifuel V70 Classic 1999 [The Old Grumpy in the Corner, "When I was a lad... blah, bl**dy blah."] |
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Sep 12th, 2021, 11:47 | #29 | |
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Also used to operate steering racks too - you see where i'm going with this? The one thing that i do have concerns about is localised boiling of the fluid under braking but that will take more research...................
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Sep 12th, 2021, 12:03 | #30 |
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
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It's a complex subject. SWMBO is a chemist.
That's what the green stuff bunged in Citroen is... used in the military too. You want your military kit laid-up for years, hence green fluid. We use DOT4 etc stuff because the boil-point is high for its price. The classic brigade have alternatives, but pricey and awkward. Water-less coolants too.
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Bifuel V70 Classic 1999 [The Old Grumpy in the Corner, "When I was a lad... blah, bl**dy blah."] Last edited by CNGBiFuel; Sep 12th, 2021 at 12:08. |
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