Squeaky Auxiliary Drive Belt - Need Some Help Please!

Lion Heart · Nov 11th, 2016, 16:15

Hi guys

Could really use some with with my 2.0 D Volvo V50 (2008).

It has developed a squeaky aux drive belt. It did it at cold at first but now does it permanently so need to get it sorted.

I got the car on a ramp so I was lucky enough to be able to view from underneath to get a good view.

Did the water spray test spraying on to the underside of the belt. Stopped squeaking immediately. So not a tension or bearing issue, more likely alignment.

Watching each pulley spin it is clear that there is a lot of 'wobble' in the main pulley. That is to say the biggest pulley - the one that is actually driven by the engine (looking at the arrangement you have the main one bottom left, air con bottom right, an idler/tensioner (?) and then the Alternator at the top.

So it's the main pulley that is having a wobble.

What would be the next stage to test and/or replace it and is it a big job???

Seems access is granted by removing the wheel and wheel arch liner, but I have no idea (having not much experience with aux drive belts and pulleys!) where to start.

Any help very much welcome!

paddyred · Nov 11th, 2016, 16:24

What do you call a lot of wobble in the main pulley? Roughly how much run out is there? I don't think I have ever seen a perfectly true pulley. This time of year the grease and oils off the road make their way up and can make an old belt squeel like mad. When was the belt last replaced? I would start with a cheap fix of taking the belt off and cleaning all the pulleys with a good de-greasing solvent/brake cleaner and a brass brush then sticking a new belt on.

Its not a massive job to change but undoing and doing up the central bolt can be a PITA!

Lion Heart · Nov 11th, 2016, 16:36

I'd say it's a fairly unhealthy amount of wobble TBH. Certainly doesn't look right.

I know sometimes you may get like 1mm run off which causes a light 'wobbling' (more of a fast sway really), but this must be 2-3mm and definitely wobbling.

What's involved with that central bolt? I have air tools if that helps?

Lion Heart · Nov 14th, 2016, 12:33

I'll take a video of it today and upload it so you can see.

There is a lot of wobble, but that said I don't think it is the bearing on the crank shaft pulley because if I spray water on to the underside of the belt the squeaking stops.

So most likely an alignment issue, there may be nothing wrong with the main pulley bearing-wise??

Video to follow...

canis · Nov 14th, 2016, 13:04

I think a worn crankshaft bearing would exhibit a highly noticeable rattling at certain engine speeds, and these would be most likely encountered on motorways simply due to the driving style of holding a speed for long periods.

I'd change the belt first and see how it goes. The pulley is a sod to get undone, the main problem being holding the crankshaft still while you overcome the tightness of the nut. I ended up making a tool (angle iron) for it when I did mine. The first tool (6mm steel) just buckled immediately.

But the belt can be changed without removing the pulley. On my 1999 V40 it requires lifting the entire engine to get access to the tensioner, so you'll need a decent jack as the engine mounting must be removed. Engines are heavy, so the jack needs to be sturdy and easilly controllable. If you drop it, it'll put massive strain on the other mounts and the CV joints, so don't let that happen. Small bottle jacks work well and cost about a fiver, and have immense lifting capability. Use a block of wood to protect the sump.

Lion Heart · Nov 14th, 2016, 13:43

Thanks for the info!!

I've popped out and had a good look, and filmed the video ready to upload.

Yes, the crankshaft pulley itself does not appear to be making the noise (i.e. bearing) as when I spray water on the underside of the belt the squeak stops for 30 seconds or so.

However, definitely a degree of wobble seen on the crankshaft pulley.

The aircon pulley to the right looks to be running very level (no wobble at all).

The ilder AFTER (above) the crankshaft pulley looks to have a little movement in it.

I put a metal ruler across the face of the crankshaft pulley and seems to be pretty much in line with the air con pulley (+- 0.5mm). But when doing the same metal ruler test between the crakshaft pulley and the idler above (next in the 'chain') that has noticeably more difference (at least 1mm).

I video'd it running, being sprayed, and also with the metal ruler alignment test so you can see for yourself.

The belt I think is actually fairly new. Absolutely zero cracks spotted on the belt, and genuine Volvo belt as car came to me one company director owner and full Volvo history (unfortunately I only have the stamped book, not all of the invoices as well so cannot check the belt change date).

What do you think?

[video coming shortly!]

NI_Volvo_Nut · Nov 14th, 2016, 14:36

I had this after doing the timing belt on JohnJB's V50 2.0D, was perfect until I was delivering the car back and it started squealing. I stopped at a petrol station and done the water trick incase it was the timing belt I just fitted making noises. Replaced the aux belt, job done.

Lion Heart · Nov 14th, 2016, 15:12

Hey NI_Volvo_Nut

Thanks for that! How weird!!!

I'll put the video up in a few minutes. Maybe you could take a quick look for me.

To change the belt I assume that there is a tensioner (next in line above the crank pulley??) that I just relax to get the belt off? Is it an automatic tensioner?

NI_Volvo_Nut · Nov 14th, 2016, 16:21

I had to remove the engine mount again to get at it, from memory the adjust (yes, self adjusting) has a 17mm nut / bolt head, you use a spanner of that and release the tension as though you are trying to tighten that nut. Take a picture or make a sketch of the route of the belt. You will need to support the engine on a jack remembering to take some of the weight of the engine as the suspension will lift once the engine mount is released if you don't. I done it without taking the underpan off but unless you are confident you know where the sump is, I don't recommend doing it that way.

Lion Heart · Nov 14th, 2016, 17:10

Here is the link to the video...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mk4fua9obq...queak.avi?dl=0

Please take a look if you'd be so kind and let me know you opinion on this...

Nov 11th, 2016, 16:15	#1
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	Squeaky Auxiliary Drive Belt - Need Some Help Please! Hi guys Could really use some with with my 2.0 D Volvo V50 (2008). It has developed a squeaky aux drive belt. It did it at cold at first but now does it permanently so need to get it sorted. I got the car on a ramp so I was lucky enough to be able to view from underneath to get a good view. Did the water spray test spraying on to the underside of the belt. Stopped squeaking immediately. So not a tension or bearing issue, more likely alignment. Watching each pulley spin it is clear that there is a lot of 'wobble' in the main pulley. That is to say the biggest pulley - the one that is actually driven by the engine (looking at the arrangement you have the main one bottom left, air con bottom right, an idler/tensioner (?) and then the Alternator at the top. So it's the main pulley that is having a wobble. What would be the next stage to test and/or replace it and is it a big job??? Seems access is granted by removing the wheel and wheel arch liner, but I have no idea (having not much experience with aux drive belts and pulleys!) where to start. Any help very much welcome!

Nov 11th, 2016, 16:24	#2
paddyred Master Member Last Online: Jul 31st, 2021 13:08 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Exeter	What do you call a lot of wobble in the main pulley? Roughly how much run out is there? I don't think I have ever seen a perfectly true pulley. This time of year the grease and oils off the road make their way up and can make an old belt squeel like mad. When was the belt last replaced? I would start with a cheap fix of taking the belt off and cleaning all the pulleys with a good de-greasing solvent/brake cleaner and a brass brush then sticking a new belt on. Its not a massive job to change but undoing and doing up the central bolt can be a PITA! __________________ Wax On Wax Off!

Nov 14th, 2016, 14:36	#7
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	I had this after doing the timing belt on JohnJB's V50 2.0D, was perfect until I was delivering the car back and it started squealing. I stopped at a petrol station and done the water trick incase it was the timing belt I just fitted making noises. Replaced the aux belt, job done. __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Nov 14th, 2016, 16:21	#9
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	I had to remove the engine mount again to get at it, from memory the adjust (yes, self adjusting) has a 17mm nut / bolt head, you use a spanner of that and release the tension as though you are trying to tighten that nut. Take a picture or make a sketch of the route of the belt. You will need to support the engine on a jack remembering to take some of the weight of the engine as the suspension will lift once the engine mount is released if you don't. I done it without taking the underpan off but unless you are confident you know where the sump is, I don't recommend doing it that way. __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Nov 11th, 2016, 16:36	#3
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	I'd say it's a fairly unhealthy amount of wobble TBH. Certainly doesn't look right. I know sometimes you may get like 1mm run off which causes a light 'wobbling' (more of a fast sway really), but this must be 2-3mm and definitely wobbling. What's involved with that central bolt? I have air tools if that helps?

Nov 14th, 2016, 12:33	#4
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	I'll take a video of it today and upload it so you can see. There is a lot of wobble, but that said I don't think it is the bearing on the crank shaft pulley because if I spray water on to the underside of the belt the squeaking stops. So most likely an alignment issue, there may be nothing wrong with the main pulley bearing-wise?? Video to follow...

Nov 14th, 2016, 13:04	#5
canis Non Fragile Last Online: Today 06:34 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Chadderton, Oldham	I think a worn crankshaft bearing would exhibit a highly noticeable rattling at certain engine speeds, and these would be most likely encountered on motorways simply due to the driving style of holding a speed for long periods. I'd change the belt first and see how it goes. The pulley is a sod to get undone, the main problem being holding the crankshaft still while you overcome the tightness of the nut. I ended up making a tool (angle iron) for it when I did mine. The first tool (6mm steel) just buckled immediately. But the belt can be changed without removing the pulley. On my 1999 V40 it requires lifting the entire engine to get access to the tensioner, so you'll need a decent jack as the engine mounting must be removed. Engines are heavy, so the jack needs to be sturdy and easilly controllable. If you drop it, it'll put massive strain on the other mounts and the CV joints, so don't let that happen. Small bottle jacks work well and cost about a fiver, and have immense lifting capability. Use a block of wood to protect the sump.

Nov 14th, 2016, 13:43	#6
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	Thanks for the info!! I've popped out and had a good look, and filmed the video ready to upload. Yes, the crankshaft pulley itself does not appear to be making the noise (i.e. bearing) as when I spray water on the underside of the belt the squeak stops for 30 seconds or so. However, definitely a degree of wobble seen on the crankshaft pulley. The aircon pulley to the right looks to be running very level (no wobble at all). The ilder AFTER (above) the crankshaft pulley looks to have a little movement in it. I put a metal ruler across the face of the crankshaft pulley and seems to be pretty much in line with the air con pulley (+- 0.5mm). But when doing the same metal ruler test between the crakshaft pulley and the idler above (next in the 'chain') that has noticeably more difference (at least 1mm). I video'd it running, being sprayed, and also with the metal ruler alignment test so you can see for yourself. The belt I think is actually fairly new. Absolutely zero cracks spotted on the belt, and genuine Volvo belt as car came to me one company director owner and full Volvo history (unfortunately I only have the stamped book, not all of the invoices as well so cannot check the belt change date). What do you think? [video coming shortly!]

Nov 14th, 2016, 15:12	#8
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	Hey NI_Volvo_Nut Thanks for that! How weird!!! I'll put the video up in a few minutes. Maybe you could take a quick look for me. To change the belt I assume that there is a tensioner (next in line above the crank pulley??) that I just relax to get the belt off? Is it an automatic tensioner?

Nov 14th, 2016, 17:10	#10
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	Here is the link to the video... https://www.dropbox.com/s/mk4fua9obq...queak.avi?dl=0 Please take a look if you'd be so kind and let me know you opinion on this...

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)