V70 G/box: 2WD: Is there a definitive oil and flush thread - 5sp Auto???

[RM955I]

Hi, I've trawled various threads and other forums and am looking for a definitive thread regarding what oil

I know that it needs to be 3309 and have found "the Gibbons method" ( http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12169 ) but:

1) Has anyone found a cheap(er) UK source for the oil or a suitable alternative to Mobil/Volvo. Toyota and Vauxhall OE seem to crop up in various searches: if so, the part number would be appreciated.

2) The various flush methods seem to consume about 12-18 litres ( !!! gulp ) which at the price of mobil 3309 is going to come out at over 120-180 quid or more! I can get a professional auto flush for 149+VAT and for that I'd get a flush, drop the pan and inspect, replace pan, gasket, test drive etc). Is it worth just doing a full 'box oil change using the described method as surely this will purge all the old oil, whilst admittedly not being a full flush???

The car is an 04 plate, registered in 05, with 90k on the clock, 2.4 170. There are no problems at all with the shift - this is purely precautionary. The oil is a shade between red and light brown so is not by any means in "the danger area" but would probably benefit from a change.

Thanks in advance.

[PeteB1]

By doing a single simple "sump dump" via the drain plug & fill, you change about 1/2 the oil volume, far better than nothing. Some have done one change this way, followed by another similar change a few 100 miles later, this removes yet more of the old fluid.

I plan to do mine finally this weekend by this method, then another in a week or so's time. This will use about 8 litres of fluid in all and replace around 2/3 of the old fluid so a reasonable change. Then, I will probably do it once every 30 to 40k miles.

My car at present has done 58k miles.

If yours is the 5 speed, then the ONLY WAY to get the new oil in is through the dipstick tube. There are NO filler plugs on top of the box, only bolts that hold the various clutch bands in place.

You are correct, JWS3309 is the correct oil. After much consideration, because of the mileage I do and the necessity of a reliable car, I have gone for the Volvo branded version of the proper JWS3309 fluid rather than a cheaper compatible fluid. This simply because it was cheaper than either the Mobil or Toyota. Others have used cheaper JWS3309 compatible (rather than officially approved) fluids though and I've not seen any 'never again' posts so they seem to be OK.

[RM955I]

Useful - thanks

I'd be comfortable doing a "sump dump" and then doing another in a few hundred miles as this would also give the oil a change to work through the transmission.

Great as a full flush using "the Gibbons method" may sound, I am averse to sticking 12-18 litres (at what...8 - 10 quid?) of oil through the transmission and dumping most of it in one go. It may be the ideal but it seems so wasteful IMHO - surely better to do a few sump dumps and really let the oil work it's way around the tranny???

[VFR Rider]

I have the same model as you bought at 96k no record of any ATF change in the history. I had a 'sump dump' done twice in quick succession just after I bought it using Millers Oils SPIII which meets JWS3309 and costs under £6/litre. I used this Millers ATF in my Subaru Legacy for over 130k changed very 36k and it was running like new when I sold it.

I'm going to have this done every other service ie 24k whilst I have the car, doesn't add much to the service cost at an INDI and I supply my own ATF

Box feels like new

[VFR Rider]

BTW the sump dump takes about 3.5 litres so my 'sump dump' fluid cost is about £20 ie there's 1.5 ltres left from the 5L container for the next fill unless your garage is keeping hold of your leftovers

[TurboZutek]

The auto service you mention will not include the pan being dropped. That's 'olden days' stuff when RWD autos actually had an accessible pan, with a replaceable filter.

Our FWD transmissions do not have replaceable filters and there is no 'pan' to remove as such. There are also no 'gaskets', instead a flexible painted on sealer is used instead. There is a solenoid cover that can come off, but it's several hours labour and a dropped sub-frame to do so; and as there's no filter to replace there's no reason to do it unless repairing the solenoids.

If your auto transmission guy doesn't know that, run don't walk!! If they are offering a "power-flush" service, then run even faster.

I'm in the camp that "JWS3309" rated is "JWS3309" rated, no matter who made it or the cost. No reason to use gen Volvo, cheaper stuff from the motor factors has always been fine for me, I've used Millers, Comma and Carlube without any problems.

Just my opinion.

Chris...

[RM955I]

Thanks - some really useful info there

Looks like I shall go with the Millermatic which I have ordered online. I took the precaution of emailing them and they have sent me the data sheet confirming that it is indeed Aisin Warner JWS 3309 spec.......that will save some money!

1 other question - is this best done hot or cold? Obviously I'd do an engine oil change hot(ish) but am not familiar with auto transmissions.

Cheers

[PeteB1]

If one does it by the book, it is supposed to be changed and level checked in a particular temperature range as measured by VIDA, at least for the 6 speed.

However, because I'm doing a 'dump & fill' rather than the flush through technique, I am planning to drain at ambient temperature and leave it draining for a while. You'll find when you get the fluid, it's very thin, even at room temperature. Once draining is finished, carefully measure the amount drained using a measuring jug and replace with exactly the same amount of fluid, again at ambient temperature.

A final level check and top up/removal if necessary should be done in the correct temperature range using the defined procedure.

[TurboZutek]

If doing the drain and fill method, the way I do it is the first drain and fill gets done cold - that way any big lumps of crap lying in the bottom of the sump get flushed straight out instead of being put back into suspension.

Just like when I do an oil change on the engine, introducing a little fresh fluid in while the drain plug is open can help flush out any nasty stuff left at the bottom of the sump.

Then, I'll do subsequent drains with the fluid warm, to get out the rest of the muck which is suspended in the fluid.

Chris...

[Georgeandkira]

Hello, Believe me when I tell you to go ahead and get started. You've read enough. When you're less than half way through this job you'll be laughing at how easy and straightforward it is. Don't over think this. In your first post you said something about "...introducing a little fresh fluid in while the drain plug is open can help flush out...". If you can spray enough fluid in there to create an effective rinse, go ahead, knock yourself out. I doubt you'll flush out any additional nastiness, practically speaking. Do not spray any solvents into your transmission as you would, say, if you were rinsing out a differential. There you hose the gears down with brake cleaner to get the grits out; NOT HERE. Seeing the dark fluid clear up is most encouraging. Whoever invented clear plastic tubing deserves an award. I recommend taking a gallon jug (from windshield washer fluid, say) and calibrating it using 1/2 quarts of water and a black marker. This way you can avoid the heart attack as you reach the 2 quart interval. 2 or 2.5 quarts per session-no sweat. What I have read is to avoid bubbles as you pump out the fluid. A helper is a good thing here though not 100% necessary. Kira