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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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740 Cambelt change - easy job or not?Views : 2928 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 3rd, 2010, 22:22 | #1 |
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740 Cambelt change - easy job or not?
Hi, my 1988 volvo has only 44,200 original miles, this car was serviced every year from '88 up to 2006...no signs that the belt was changed except for a dried out bit of silicone round where the plastic cam belt cover screws into the other half...
I want ultimate piece of mind and wanted to know how easy would it be to change the cam belt on a b200e redblock engine? What list of tools would i need to complete the job? Also preferabley the part numbers of the belt Thank you! |
Aug 3rd, 2010, 23:17 | #2 |
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Well the part number is 271713-0. At least, thats the number on the box of the new one I got here.
The B19, B21, B23, B200 & B230 all use the same belt. Replacement is straightforward and needs only regular tools. Cant remember if the crank damper has to come off. |
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Aug 3rd, 2010, 23:40 | #4 |
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the crank pulley has to come of,there is a locking tool,if you have access to compressor and air gun it can be buzzed of without.
one other way is to put a socket on a breaker bar and rest it on the chassis and flick the starter to undue. apart from that its straight forward.
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Aug 4th, 2010, 07:17 | #5 |
Grumpy Old Git
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Thats what I do Its a straightforward job, a couple of hours if you take it slowly, maybe an hour if you've done it before.
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Aug 4th, 2010, 08:23 | #6 |
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Wow, Thanks for the quick replies guys, Is there and way i can peel back the cambelt cover and be able to check the condition of the belt (like if it was 22 years old and completley knackered i'd see wouldn't i?) I've heard that splits and cracks that are visible are a certain sign that the belt should be replaced,
as i've never done a belt or work like this before, (i've done plugs, oil and filters changes, exhaust fitting and replacement, rust proofing and throttle cleaning etc) I take it that its a case of getting the engine to no1 TDC firing postition and lining up all of the marks on the pulley's and locking them into position somehow, slipping the old belt off and putting the new one in its place? Other than having to release the tensioner and holding it away with a nail or a metal rod, thats generally the job? Thank you, this is really helpful! |
Aug 4th, 2010, 08:28 | #7 |
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Aug 4th, 2010, 08:58 | #8 |
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All I can say is that for such a critical part of the engine I'd be buying a genuine Volvo belt, rather than trusting it to a 5 quid Ebay purchase.....
Others may disagree, but a genuine belt would give me a LOT more confidence and peace of mind! Regards Eddy |
Aug 4th, 2010, 12:15 | #9 |
Ovlovnut
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Follow this guide by Mike Brace when he did my B200E (240)
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=52657 Good luck.
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Aug 4th, 2010, 12:48 | #10 |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
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Totally agree - only fit genuine parts when it comes to the timing belt and tensioner. I usually change the water pump every 100k as well - again only fitting OEM. Its just not worth the risk.
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
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