Is my dizzy kaput??

[Billy Smalls]

Hi

144 hasn't been running or starting too well recently and finally gave up starting altogether. I suspected the points and there was no gap, so went to pop a new set on.

Took cap and rotor off and I just catch glimp of a little piece of metal fall from the breaker plate into the innards below!! then I notice a grease covered 3mm ball-bearing floating around too!!

Thought I might as well try fitting the points anyway, and discover that when I'm tightening the points into position the whole plate is just slopping around the breaker camshaft - at that point I shut the bonnet in a fury and ring AXA Assistance (who I've never used before, but got my car home)

I realise I need to take the dizzy out, but have read that it's not as easy as just unbolting and removing....Haynes is confusing me by jumping from one chapter to the next

Can someone explain the procedure for removing the dizzy, please??

Also, is it possible to get new distributors?? thought about 123 but I'm on a budget

Thanks all...

[Volvorama]

Dead easy to remove. Undo two bolts holding base to engine block. Shouldn't be hard to get a useable second-hand unit. I've ended up using B20A distributors throughout all of mine because:
A- The points are very easy to change
B- The advance is less than the B20B I understand and this seems to suit modern fuel and avoids pinking
C- There are more about
In some cases you may have to re-position the drive in the engine block although that might be a B18 thing.

[Billy Smalls]

Thanks Mark

It's this thing about setting Top-Dead-Centre and the rotor arm facing the 1st plug, before removing that's puzzling me....is TDC easy to obtain? do I just clean off the crankshaft and find the markings???

It's a single carb B20A

Thanks

[arcturus]

The crank pulley has markings on it along the rim. Before starting remove dizy cap. turn engine over by hand until rotor arm is pointing at number one plug and the tdc mark is level with the small rib on crank case.(you will know what i mean when you see it) Now remove dizy as mentioned before hand. Replace with rotor arm in same position and your timing won't be far out.
If you can't get a replacement in UK I have a spare used one. It would be a good time if you can afford it to replace it with a 123

[Billy Smalls]

Originally Posted by arcturus

The crank pulley has markings on it along the rim. Before starting remove dizy cap. turn engine over by hand until rotor arm is pointing at number one plug and the tdc mark is level with the small rib on crank case.(you will know what i mean when you see it) Now remove dizy as mentioned before hand. Replace with rotor arm in same position and your timing won't be far out.
If you can't get a replacement in UK I have a spare used one. It would be a good time if you can afford it to replace it with a 123

Thanks, can you please write that post into the Haynes manual!!! ha ha - far better described!!

I can see the 123 for £330 - it is an easy job to install? I MAY just be able to afford a 123 but not with labour on top....

This is the www.scparts.co.uk description I think I'm looking for - can you confirm is this is the right part?

Part number: 485693
123 Ignition system

for 4 cylinder engines with Bosch distributors
Volvo B18 and B20 carburettor engines (Volvo PV544, Duett, P1800, Amazon, 140, 200, C202)

Thanks alot

[arcturus]

I got my 123 from Amazon Cars. Email:volvo@amazoncars.co.uk They are simple to install,come with full instructions. Call Rob and have a chat. Tell him I recommended him to you

[Volvorama]

The 'Autobook' repair manual describes the alignment business correctly.
If you do replace yours I could probably fix it using parts from a couple I have that have bent shafts (1980s scrapyards letting engines fall on their sides).

[swedishandgerman]

You're welcome to send your distributor to me in Exeter and I'll sort it out for you. From what you're describing, your distributor is no way near being kaput and is extremely easy to repair

The base plate has come apart and needs re-securing. That's all....

If you can put all the loose parts in a bag or envelope or something similar, I can easily sort your distributor out

[Billy Smalls]

Originally Posted by swedishandgerman

You're welcome to send your distributor to me in Exeter and I'll sort it out for you. From what you're describing, your distributor is no way near being kaput and is extremely easy to repair

The base plate has come apart and needs re-securing. That's all....

If you can put all the loose parts in a bag or envelope or something similar, I can easily sort your distributor out

Wow, that is incredibly good of you....I will pm you about addresses and things....cheers

[swedishandgerman]

I received our man Billy Small's distributor this morning and it was really simple to fix. There is a little spring clip that holds a little ball bearing which allows the points base to move freely; the spring clip had broken



Firstly, I removed the vac canister by undoing 2 screws and the tiny circlip attaching the actuator to the spring base. To check it, I sucked it and made sure that the actuator moved and it held pressure

To get the points base out, I unscrewed and removed the 2 cap clamps. These 2 screws also secure the base. It took it out completely and gave it a good clean and re-grease



I never, ever chuck any old Volvo parts out, so I had a an old knackered distributor with a good ball bearing and spring which I salvaged



Next, I moved onto the shaft which had not been lubricated for a long, long time. It is imperative to lubricate these old distributors, but it is never mentioned in any service schedules. Simply, there is a felt pad at the top of the shaft and underneath the rotor arm. This needs to be whetted with oil. You can dap your dipstick onto it or use thin oil like 3-in-1



On the side of the distributor is a little oil hole. You need to put a pair of pliers on, turn and put oil in the hole. Again, you can dap it with your dipstick or use thin oil



While the points base was out, I had a quick clean up of debris - including the broken off spring clip that was fouling the shaft - and well lubricated the springs and weights



The shaft, weights and springs appeared to be in really good nick on this one, even though they hadn't seen oil!