Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 200 Series General

Notices

200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Cold start hesitation

Views : 1102

Replies : 16

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jan 22nd, 2021, 10:01   #1
Clifford Pope
Not an expert but ...
 

Last Online: Today 10:11
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
Default Cold start hesitation

For about a month now the engine has hesitated a bit when pulling away after first starting. It 's not directly related to either cold or damp weather, and only does it for the first few hundred yards if I go up the hill rather than down.
After that it runs perfectly. The symptoms feel exactly like a carburettor engine that needs a bit more choke for a few seconds.

It's the LH 2.4 system, 1991, with the earlier version that has an additional 5th injector hidden under the injector rail. I've cleaned and replaced fuses 4 and 6, and the fuel pump relay looks OK - no corrosion or apparent damp.
The car starts promptly, runs well at idle, and drives OK if I stay in 1st and don't try to accelerate too soon.

I'm looking for pointers - I presume it's some cold start setting being slow to respond. Is the 5th injector for cold starts? Could this be the engine management temperature sensor failing?

If I'd only just bought the car I'd have guessed it was normal - slight hesitation on a chilly morning before it starts to warm up - but it's never done it before, even on much colder mornings.
Clifford Pope is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 22nd, 2021, 22:38   #2
DW42
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Oct 9th, 2022 05:41
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Currumbin, Queensland
Default

I would start by replacing the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plug leads if these are more than about 5 years old. Rotor arms don't seem to last as long as they used to. If symptoms persist, try cleaning the IAC valve and the throttle body.
__________________
Present: 1990 240GL saloon, 1992 240 estate
Past: 1988 240GL; 1971 144DL; 1972 145DL
DW42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 22nd, 2021, 22:55   #3
Bugjam1999
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 21:24
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: London and Cambridge
Default

I’d replace the ecu temperature sensor under the third runner of the inlet manifold- they don’t last forever and my car had running issues just after starting before replacing it.

Makes sure you buy a Bosch one- the pattern ones don’t last long and sometimes don’t work at all.

Ignore the internet that says you need to remove the inlet manifold to fit one, all you need is a deep socket that fits the sensor and perhaps to move some wiring or of the way.

Cheers
Bugjam1999 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 22nd, 2021, 23:48   #4
Clan
Experienced Member
 
Clan's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 14:09
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
For about a month now the engine has hesitated a bit when pulling away after first starting. It 's not directly related to either cold or damp weather, and only does it for the first few hundred yards if I go up the hill rather than down.
After that it runs perfectly. The symptoms feel exactly like a carburettor engine that needs a bit more choke for a few seconds.

It's the LH 2.4 system, 1991, with the earlier version that has an additional 5th injector hidden under the injector rail. I've cleaned and replaced fuses 4 and 6, and the fuel pump relay looks OK - no corrosion or apparent damp.
The car starts promptly, runs well at idle, and drives OK if I stay in 1st and don't try to accelerate too soon.

I'm looking for pointers - I presume it's some cold start setting being slow to respond. Is the 5th injector for cold starts? Could this be the engine management temperature sensor failing?

If I'd only just bought the car I'd have guessed it was normal - slight hesitation on a chilly morning before it starts to warm up - but it's never done it before, even on much colder mornings.
as soon as you let go the starter when starting the cold start injector stops spraying , it's job is done in STARTING the engine , It does not RUN on the fuel from the cold start injector .
I would suspect injector spray pattern , ie atomisation .. pull all the injectors out and watch the spray pattern as someone turns it over ... it should be a fine mist coming out no drips or dribbles ...
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .
Clan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 06:22   #5
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 20:03
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Check the spark plugs and if necessary, re-gap them to 0.65-0.7mm - chances are if a previous owner changed them at all they just whacked them in straight out of the box and most plugs (certainly NGK) come with a factory-set 0.9mm gap which would be the equivalent of at least 20k miles use.

On a cold engine any ignition maladies are made more obvious because a weak mixture (even allowing for the cold running enrichment) is harder to fire.

Also check the dizzy cap, particularly the carbon brush inside as these have a habit of breaking off.

May also be worth investing in a new set of HT leads considering the past month or so has been incredibly damp..........
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 10:09   #6
Clifford Pope
Not an expert but ...
 

Last Online: Today 10:11
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
Default

Spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm were new last year, and I regularly clean the IAV anyway.

I didn't know that about the cold start injector only spraying while turning the starter motor - is that peculiar to the 5th injector, or to all the injectors?
I'd just assumed that the mixture was generally enriched while cold-running.

The ECU temperature sensor seems the best easiest check - it came with the car about 5 years ago, so is of unknown age.

I'm wary of removing injectors, but it may come to that. The last (only) time I've done that was on a previous 240 when I suspected the seals were leaking. I found it a nightmare getting them back in again - they took so much force I was worried I'd damaged the new seals.
Clifford Pope is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Clifford Pope For This Useful Post:
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 10:15   #7
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 20:03
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
Spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm were new last year, and I regularly clean the IAV anyway.

I didn't know that about the cold start injector only spraying while turning the starter motor - is that peculiar to the 5th injector, or to all the injectors?
I'd just assumed that the mixture was generally enriched while cold-running.

The ECU temperature sensor seems the best easiest check - it came with the car about 5 years ago, so is of unknown age.

I'm wary of removing injectors, but it may come to that. The last (only) time I've done that was on a previous 240 when I suspected the seals were leaking. I found it a nightmare getting them back in again - they took so much force I was worried I'd damaged the new seals.
What make were the HT leads and did you gap the plugs correctly when fitting?

The main 4 injectors all spray while the engine is being cranked and running, when cold the ECU increases T.inj or injection time to richen the mixture. The cold start injector is arbitrary enrichment purely for cold starting and isn't fitted to all models, even thoe with the same engine management system.

I would check the plug gaps (correct if needed) and also the plugs themselves for any sign of arcing or similar on the porcelain insulator. Also check there is no corrosion (whilte and flaky usually) on the connectors inside the dizzy cap. While yo're under the bonnet, also check the air filter is still clean.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 12:06   #8
Clifford Pope
Not an expert but ...
 

Last Online: Today 10:11
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
Default

Plugs were new (Denso, as always) and correctly gapped a year ago (2000 miles in present circumstances). The leads and cap came from Brookhouse.
Clifford Pope is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Clifford Pope For This Useful Post:
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 12:10   #9
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 20:03
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
Plugs were new and correctly gapped a year ago (2000 miles in present circumstances). The leads and cap came from Brookhouse.
What i'm saying is don't discount them just because they're new.

There was a thread some time in the past few days with a regular cold start misfire and a new set of HT leads in the past year. Those new leads had failed and the car is now running as it should again apart from a separate fault the the OP of that thread will hopefully be investigating. I've also know plugs to fail a matter of hours after being renewed because they were faulty. It's not worth overlooking the obvious just because they are new/recent parts, you can spend a fortune on other things that you "think" are the fault only to find later it was in fact one of the new parts you'd "overlooked" because they were new.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old Jan 23rd, 2021, 13:47   #10
Bob Meadows
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 20:26
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE
Default

Regarding the rotor arm:~
If you you need to change it then go for Beru/Bosch- as mentioned even new items can be faulty, had it on a Motorcraft part well under twelve months old.
Beru is just the opposite- same for the distributor cap.
Bob.
Bob Meadows is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bob Meadows For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 21:26.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.