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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice, Part 2!Views : 46564 Replies : 671Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 10th, 2021, 16:02 | #571 |
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Just checked the emery tape i'm using Chris, it's 120 grit but i'd suggest something a bit finer for the use you'll put it to so 160 or thereabouts.
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May 11th, 2021, 07:20 | #572 |
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That's great - just ordered some 150. Looking closely, there's a fair bit of corrosion on the contacts of some of the fuses, so we'll get on with it at the weekend and, if the weather improves a bit, do the brakes too. Hope you're recovering/ recovered from that jab now.
Stephen - thanks for that, I searched all over the place and couldn't find any that clearly listed ceramic bodies so went ahead and bought some of the plastic ones as backup. I definitely think the swap for a blade box is a good way to go, looking forward to Bugjam's conversion! Bugjam - is yours pre-1991? Wondering what adaptations might be needed to fit to ours. |
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May 23rd, 2021, 07:44 | #573 |
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The only real 'deviation' from the plan was the bleed nipple - we set it up as per, 8mm spanner to do 1/4 turn, compressed the pistons back (£12 spent on a spreader like the one you linked to, Loki, was great), but no brake fluid appeared in the pipe. Tightened the nipple up after spreading, did the other side but then realised - I think the nut is 7mm, so I guess that explains why no fluid came out! We were fortunate - the fluid didn't overflow in the reservoir, and the nuts don't seem to be rounded over (at least not so much as to cause a problem in future). I'm going to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir today - it may be a bit low as it didn't overflow? That said, a friend who likes to work on his cars told me a while back that he'd done several over the years and never had to remove any fluid from the reservoir (as per Haynes' instructions) or fit a bleed pipe. As I say, maybe we just got lucky. Thanks for the instructions, Dave - I printed them out and they were a real help! |
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May 23rd, 2021, 10:42 | #574 | |
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Other than that, a job well done - might be worth considering changing all the brake fluid if you don't know when it was last done - very easy with a Gunsons Eezibleed.
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May 23rd, 2021, 11:00 | #575 | |
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May 23rd, 2021, 11:32 | #576 | |
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114396159192 My Volvo fluid is showing 1-2% contamination (it's about 3-4 years old) and the Rover is off the scale because it's about 10-11 years old! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274806861788 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130759082496 Two links to the Eezibleed kit there, first is a new/never used one previously bought by someone else on an auction listing. If you'd prefer to buy new with a guarantee and all the bits provided (always a chance the purchaser of the new/never used one has lost some of the bits) then i'd suggest the second one. You'll almost certainly have the standard Girling screw cap on your brake fluid reservoir and a cap is supplied with that fitting. Using the Eezibleed is simplicity itself, pump your spare tyre up to at least 20psi (i use 30-35psi to overcome the ABS valves which take a fair bit of pressure), fill the bottle with new brake fluid, attach the cap to the reservoir, open the bleed nipple (with a length of tubing to direct it into a container) on the first in the bleeding sequence and connect the air connector to the spare tyre. When clean fluid comes through, close the nipple and remove the connector from the tyre. Repeat for the second, third etc nipples in the bleed sequence. This is quite a good video showing the Eezibleed in action, a bit waffley in places but all useful stuff for the most part. It's also centred on an MGB which may seem a strange choice but the master cylinder cap is similar (maybe the same) and he's fairly thorough in his descriptions. If you forget it's an MGB and transpose your thinking to Volvo, it should be very helpful : https://youtu.be/0UFqJFathco In practice you can leave the tyre connected all the time but try to minimise the time it's connected without having a bleed valve open. Also keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle and don't forget to disconnect the tyre before topping up! I'm not sure of the bleeding sequence on yours and it will vary between ABS and non-ABS cars, using a clear tube from the bleed nipple to the receptacle will let you see when the fresh fluid comes through.
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May 24th, 2021, 09:02 | #577 |
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Thanks Dave - really helpful. Couple of questions:
1. Is the fact that we didn't allow the fluid to escape through the bleed nipple enough to say we need to replace the fluid asap? My guess is the fluid is old, so that's got to be a factor - tho we do have a testing thingy, I think it was Alan who suggested we get one. So we can double check. 2. Is it normal to remove the wheel to access the bleed nipple while doing this, or can you do it from underneath reasonably? I've looked at the bleed sequence - that's a lot of on-and-off of wheels, esp as to raise the rear ones to put it on an axle stand I have to first lift each corner with the scissors jack to allow access for our trolley jack plus block under the trailing arm! (The trailing arm is too low otherwise.) Or is it enough to work on each with just the trolley jack straight on the jacking point, since we're not going to be getting underneath at all? |
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May 24th, 2021, 10:32 | #578 | |
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2. On mine the bleeding sequence (from memory) is rear left, reear right, front left, front right. I loosened the wheels nuts ~1/4-1/2 turn then jacked the rear on the diff (using the hockey puck) then using a 1/4 hex to 1/2" square adaptor in my cordless drill, removed the wheel nuts from the wheel i was working on. Wheel off then slide it either under the hub or the sill so if anything did go wrong i'd have those extra few inches of space. As you point out, you're not getting completely under the car so i consider this safe enough. Alternatively an axle stand under each end of the axle and let the jack down gently until the axle is just resting on the stands. Something i found made the bleed sequence easier to get into my head was ignoring the bit about removing the wheels in the HBoF. Once you rationalise it down to the exact sequence of wheels, you can work out your wheel removal plan With mine, as you can see it was both rears first which made life easier. Jack the back, removed both wheels, bled both sides, refitted the wheels. Then did similar on the front. There's a central load plate/jacking plate on mine so again i lifted the whole front end, removed the wheels, bled then refitted the wheels. Hope that gives you a few ideas!
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Jun 26th, 2021, 08:18 | #579 |
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Apologies Dave, and all helping - I'd intended to post a reply saying, 'job done' but things dragged on and then my mum ended up in hospital and things have been sketchy since.
We checked the brake fluid and it registered 3% so definitely needs changing (the scale went up to 4%). Given the circumstances, I called the volvo garage and they charge £47 to do the job all in (hardly more than parts to do it ourselves), so I think I'll just book it in with them and get it done - tho even committing to a specific day's tricky at the moment. We've sprayed the bleed nipples so they'll undo easier. Oh, and we changed the window scrapers yesterday, that definitely felt good! Thanks all, C |
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Jun 26th, 2021, 12:45 | #580 |
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No worries Chris, glad it all went well and sorry to hear about your mum - i hope she's fully recovered/recovering well by now!
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