1800: 1972 pv1800es

[mike gilbert]

I've told my friend (the owner) that she could either get the jacking points fabricated and welded on, or carry a load spreader (i.e. a piece of wood) to use with the jack. I think she will use the piece of wood :-)[/QUOTE]

You can buy them from Brookhouse - £12 something each. They are dished to fit the crown on the car jack. They just weld onto the front outrigger, provided its solid of course.

[lorenzo skerl]

Thanks a lot!

[john.wigley]

Doesn't the font of knowledge so willingly shared and assistance so freely offered just show this forum at it's very best? Brilliant! J.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by john.wigley

Doesn't the font of knowledge so willingly shared and assistance so freely offered just show this forum at it's very best? Brilliant! J.

Absolutely John, just like with the RB project, I am indebted to the contributors. I agree this forum is excellent.
Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by mike gilbert

I've told my friend (the owner) that she could either get the jacking points fabricated and welded on, or carry a load spreader (i.e. a piece of wood) to use with the jack. I think she will use the piece of wood :-)

You can buy them from Brookhouse - £12 something each. They are dished to fit the crown on the car jack. They just weld onto the front outrigger, provided its solid of course.[/QUOTE]

Thank you Mike,

I’ll ask ‘Janet’ what she wants to do - although I think she quite likes the block of wood solution :-).

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Those aren't H4 bulbs Alan.

They are P45t bases so you'd need H4 conversion bulbs to convert to halogen (normal H4 bases are P43t) and just so you can make sure you've rewired them correctly :

There are now these snazzy converter rings (P45t to P43t) that enable you to use H4 bulbs directly :

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/col...4-bulb-adapter

Alternatively :

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/col...eam-conversion

Each will only pull ~2A as opposed to ~5A per filament for tungsten H4 bulbs so much kinder to the wiring and switchgear. They also mimic the filament shape with the LEDs and give a perfect beam pattern.

I wonder how long the exhaust has been hung awkwardly like that?

Hang on Dave - are you telling me the H4 connectors I ordered today won't fit the base of the bulbs? I didn't check them, but I don't think you are right about that one.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I wonder how long the exhaust has been hung awkwardly like that?

Probably quite a long time Dave, there is clearly a new section (the front box, also the tailpipes are new):



... bit the middle pipe is ancient:



... as is the middle box - which is the one canted at an angle, which is I believe causing the problem:



I'm guessing that one has been there, and in that orientation, for years (maybe prior to the last MoT in 2006?).

I think the issue will be whether I can get this clamp (a bespoke hanger) undone, and then rotate the pipe into its proper orientation:



I've put some penetrating spray on it so we'll see how that goes.

If I can't rotate the middle box into its proper orientation, and then align the back box so it doesn't hit the panhard rod bracket, then the choices for 'Janet' are either:

a. Fit a radio, turn the volume up and ignore the noise of the exhaust hitting the body (I don't think that would be good for Delores).
b. An additional bodge to make it work a bit better.
c. Replace the exhaust - I noticed Classic Swede sells a nice stainless steel one for £390/set.

... watch this space :-)

[volvobysea]

Hi

After having fitted many exhaust's it is always better to fit a complete system as you can easily rotate the various parts to obtain a perfect fit and the es has plenty of places for the exhaust to rub. I have always found it much harder to get a perfect fit when just doing a part replacement. Another thing to consider is stainless steel clamps as you will then have many years of trouble free motoring as far as the exhaust is concerned.My stainless steel exhaust that I fitted to my es in 1982 lasted till 2006 before it needed attention because of the innards of the silencers were rattling.

The other advantage of a complete system is you can cut any clamps or pipes that are provimg difficult to remove. Good luck with rest of the jobs that need attention.

Gavin

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Hang on Dave - are you telling me the H4 connectors I ordered today won't fit the base of the bulbs? I didn't check them, but I don't think you are right about that one.

The connetors should fit Alan, just don't expect those bulbs to be anything like as good as halogen. Also considering the fragility of the wiring in that area, a halogen upgrade wouldn't necessarily be a great idea unless you upgraded the wiring.

[cassell]

Regarding the oil leak, if it turns out to be the rear crankshaft seal the chances are that the original felt seal is still in place.

These are prone to leaking after a long period of standing and it 'may' just swell enough to seal with more use. If not, a conversion to a rubber seal is available from Brookhouse for around £40 which includes a new seal housing, well worth doing if you do end up taking the gearbox out at all.