Amazon: New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

[Othen]

Winter must be coming :-)



I've changed back to the silver wheels and 175/60 tyres.. ostensibly for the winter (so to preserve the original wheels and shiny new hub caps), but they will probably remain on the motor car from now. Having tried both I have to say the Amazon handles and steers better with 175/60 tyres - they make the speedometer read correctly as well :-).

Alan

[Othen]

The forum is really quiet so here is a nice photo of GAM I took today:



... nothing more to report :-)

[Othen]

Today has been the first without rain for a week, so I took GAM into town for a cuppa at the Wetherspoons:



I was getting a bit stir crazy after 3 days at home with a rotten cold. I'm pleased to say GAM started straight away and worked perfectly after perhaps a fortnight of inactivity. GAM also attracted a crowd of folk from the pub wanting to have a look around (that always happens).

:-)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

I thought I'd solved the intermittent starter problem for good back in July when I last reported on this subject. GAM started straight away this eve (having not been used for a week or so whilst I have been working on the Barge), but after a short drive to Morrisons for some groceries the dead man's click returned as I tried to drive home. It did eventually start after a bit of fiddling with the key and the Ron Kwas starter button. I've tried it a few times since getting home and been unable to replicate the intermittent fault.

I've eliminated almost everything: taken apart and cleaned the starter, changed the solenoid, checked (and repaired) all the wiring. The only thing I have not been able to check has been the switch - which would be difficult as it is attached to that thick armoured cable.

The switch is prime suspect #1. The key is very sloppy and the gorilla spring doesn't work (hence the Ron Kwas starter button). My theory is that the contact is poor in position 3 (accessories being position 1, off is 2, normal running 3 and starter energised 4 - except I don't use position 4 due to the Ron Kwas starter button). Perhaps in position 3 the connection isn't always good enough to operate the starter?

I don't recall this issue ever happening before me fitting the Ron Kwas kit (there is nothing wrong with the Ron Kwas kit, I like it and it protects the starter without the gorilla spring's help). I'm thinking that perhaps in position 4 the contact in the switch may be good enough to operate the starter, whereas sometimes it is not in position 3 (just due to normal wear and tear).

I have a few options:

a. One would be to look for a replacement original switch - but that would be a difficult thing to find due to the armoured cable.

b. I could saw off the armoured cable to access the +ve wire to the coil and fit a replacement switch. I don't like changing from the original unless there is no other option.

c. I could try reverting back to using position 4 to start the motor (it just requires a wire moving one pole), but have the Ron Kwas kit wired in series such that the momentary switch protects the starter should the driver forget to return the switch to position 3 after starting.

d. I could fit a starter relay so the switch doesn't need to provide so much current in position 3 (and leave the momentary switch wired as it is now.

Intermittent issues are hard to track down, this may not occur again for another 2 months, but of the options I'm most tempted by 'c'. It is a fiddly, but not difficult job to move the starter circuit wire to pole 4, but otherwise it is free.

Any ideas or comments?

Alan

After months of faultless operation GAM's intermittent starter problem returned this morn. Having checked, repaired or changed everything else the most likely culprit would seem to be the internal contacts in the starter switch - which is the original armoured cable type. Wiggling the key about in the ignition lock did eventually seem to solve the issue.

It is pretty unlikely that I'll find an original replacement that is any better, so as before my options would seem to be:

b. I could saw off the armoured cable to access the +ve wire to the coil and fit a replacement switch. I don't like changing from the original unless there is no other option.

or:

d. I could fit a starter relay so the switch doesn't need to provide so much current in position 3 (and leave the momentary switch wired as it is now.

Of the two I'm tempted to try option 'd' as the least obtrusive (probably the cheapest and simplest as well). I could hide a modern 5 post relay down somewhere near the starter motor, that way it would actuate with far less potential difference (hence current).

There is no rush to do this as it works fine when it works, but something I should sort out in the medium term (few weeks).

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

I'd go for a sstarter relay Alan, a 4-pin 40A (or 70A if you want to over-engineer it) relay will do fine.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'd go for a sstarter relay Alan, a 4-pin 40A (or 70A if you want to over-engineer it) relay will do fine.

Thank you Dave - that would seem to be by far the simplest solution.

Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'd go for a sstarter relay Alan, a 4-pin 40A (or 70A if you want to over-engineer it) relay will do fine.

This would seem to be just the ticket for £6.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321217150...Bk9SR_6w---XYQ

... apart from a little bit of wire and some crimped on connectors that I'll have anyway £7 should be it.

:-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

This would seem to be just the ticket for £6.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321217150...Bk9SR_6w---XYQ

... apart from a little bit of wire and some crimped on connectors that I'll have anyway £7 should be it.

:-)

That'll do nicely!

[Moomoo]

MINILITES for sale. Mmmmmmmmm!😈

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Moomoo

MINILITES for sale. Mmmmmmmmm!😈

I'd noticed Alan was selling a set of nice wheels Andrew. If I didn't already have two sets of wheels, both with new tyres, for GAM I'd probably have bought them.