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'58>'10 Plate - High Milage Examples - Any Buyer's Advice?

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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 14:07   #1
Oil Rag
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Default '58>'10 Plate - High Milage Examples - Any Buyer's Advice?

Hi all,

I'm looking at buying a high mileage XC90 between a '58 and '10 plate and wondered if there was anything particular to look for when viewing?

The mileage will be around 140-180k.

A couple of common issues are the handbrake mechanism and the AWD system becoming 2WD. Is it correct to think that these are issues only associated with earlier XC90s and should be less of an issue with the '58 and onwards?

Thanks for any advice.
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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 14:11   #2
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Originally Posted by Oil Rag View Post
Hi all,

I'm looking at buying a high mileage XC90 between a '58 and '10 plate and wondered if there was anything particular to look for when viewing?

The mileage will be around 140-180k.

A couple of common issues are the handbrake mechanism and the AWD system becoming 2WD. Is it correct to think that these are issues only associated with earlier XC90s and should be less of an issue with the '58 and onwards?

Thanks for any advice.
AWD is usually ok by then . Put aside about £2500 to get it up to scratch for another 100,000 miles. You might be lucky and it's less. People sell for a reason , Neglect..
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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 14:20   #3
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Originally Posted by Oil Rag View Post
Hi all,

I'm looking at buying a high mileage XC90 between a '58 and '10 plate and wondered if there was anything particular to look for when viewing?

The mileage will be around 140-180k.

A couple of common issues are the handbrake mechanism and the AWD system becoming 2WD. Is it correct to think that these are issues only associated with earlier XC90s and should be less of an issue with the '58 and onwards?

Thanks for any advice.
There's probably plenty to choose from so I would say :

- As said above, AWD issues sorted by MY2006 so shouldn't be an issue if there are no lights/messages etc.

- Parking brake easy to sort - if it doesn't work well then negotiate rather then reject the car

- Service history is key - check the MOT history on line, if lots of fails for tyres, bulbs etc. then it's not been well looked after.

- Check all electrics - they're not unreliable but can be expensive to sort.

- Should have had cambelt and aux belt by then - check

- Check the gearbox is smooth when car thoroughly warm - get the gearbox oil changed if its not been done in the last 60k or so.

- Be careful of R-Design/Sport models, the ride is firmer and the bigger wheels need more expensive tyres that don't last as long - SE LUX is best spec or executive if you come across one.
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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 16:04   #4
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I am always a little wary of these types of posts because the responses are generally ‘yes these cars will do lots of miles etc etc’.

Now this is true, mine has done 125k and I will expect the same.

However I have changed every fluid in it (power steering fluid was filthy, as was auto box and all others!).

And this is the thing.

1). If you are going to change all fluids and consumables etc (power steering, Coolant, Auto box, AOC etc etc) and belts (Aux and probably close to cambelt at higher miles) then go for it, it’s gonna be less than £200 and a few hours work.

2). Major bore wear, and chassis rust/rot won’t be an issue if it’s been looked after. All the bearings, bushes, rotating parts and such will be at end of life and you will need multiple refreshes etc. Again, this is fine, if you are going to do it yourself.

If you are going to take this to garages however (Volvo or independent) then walk away and buy a later lower milage one is my advice.

I can change a cambelt for something like £25. You will pay 10 times that for a garage. Bushes and control arms are cheap, unless you pay a garage then it’s £xxx.

Hope that helps??
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 02:29   #5
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From my very recent experience:

Bushes: this is a heavy car and if my mot history is to be believed, you’ll be needing new bushes in one place or another soon

Anti skid service: can either be the steering wheel angle sensor or, if your car has a sunroof, yaw sensor. Both are easy enough to change but not the cheapest.

Brakes: again, heavy car, goes through pads and rotors quickly.

Spare wheel condition: it’s tucked under the rear floor place, exposed to all sorts of crap. Ensure it’s in a good condition.
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 02:31   #6
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Lastly, the DIM: the solder / balls can fail, giving you Eratic / no readings on your instrument cluster. There’s a chap in east London who repairs them for £72 + postage. Did a great job on mine.
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 08:43   #7
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Had my 2010 XC90 from new. Now on 145k miles.
Mines needed turbo charge pipe twice (early on in life). More recently coolant leak from donut pipe, and intercooler (changed myself so cheap ) and then aircon compressor and steering angle sensor more recently. I use an Indy for non service work but I still get mine serviced at volvo - mainly for ease and the annual European breakdown cover which I’ve used to good effect (Coolant leak in france!)
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 12:37   #8
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Excellent reply gents, (and any ladies), I have read each reply in detail and appreciate the advice.

So in general, try to get one that is as clean as possible with regards to MOTs and with the best service history, then go through it servicing everything. Apart from that, there is nothing to look at that commonly fails at high miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XC90Mk1 View Post

1). If you are going to change all fluids and consumables etc (power steering, Coolant, Auto box, AOC etc etc) and belts (Aux and probably close to cambelt at higher miles) then go for it, it’s gonna be less than £200 and a few hours work.

2). Major bore wear, and chassis rust/rot won’t be an issue if it’s been looked after. All the bearings, bushes, rotating parts and such will be at end of life and you will need multiple refreshes etc. Again, this is fine, if you are going to do it yourself.

Thanks.

Yes most work will be done by myself, firstly as you say a full front to back service, including cambelt, then any bushes that need attention.


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Originally Posted by XC90Mk1 View Post

I can change a cambelt for something like £25.
I assumed the kit would cost around £150-200 including the water pump etc as most cars are, plus the labour on top of that if you're paying a garage to do it. Is £25 just the cost for the belt? If it is the kit, that's a bargain!


Quote:
Originally Posted by CanisRed View Post
From my very recent experience:

Bushes: this is a heavy car and if my mot history is to be believed, you’ll be needing new bushes in one place or another soon

Anti skid service: can either be the steering wheel angle sensor or, if your car has a sunroof, yaw sensor. Both are easy enough to change but not the cheapest.
Good tips, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanisRed View Post
Lastly, the DIM: the solder / balls can fail, giving you Eratic / no readings on your instrument cluster. There’s a chap in east London who repairs them for £72 + postage. Did a great job on mine.
Noted, thanks.

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Originally Posted by XCF View Post
Had my 2010 XC90 from new. Now on 145k miles.
Mines needed turbo charge pipe twice (early on in life). More recently coolant leak from donut pipe, and intercooler (changed myself so cheap ) and then aircon compressor and steering angle sensor more recently. I use an Indy for non service work but I still get mine serviced at volvo - mainly for ease and the annual European breakdown cover which I’ve used to good effect (Coolant leak in france!)

Interesting to know.
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 12:41   #9
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Originally Posted by Tannaton View Post
There's probably plenty to choose from so I would say :

- As said above, AWD issues sorted by MY2006 so shouldn't be an issue if there are no lights/messages etc.

- Parking brake easy to sort - if it doesn't work well then negotiate rather then reject the car

- Service history is key - check the MOT history on line, if lots of fails for tyres, bulbs etc. then it's not been well looked after.

- Check all electrics - they're not unreliable but can be expensive to sort.

- Should have had cambelt and aux belt by then - check

- Check the gearbox is smooth when car thoroughly warm - get the gearbox oil changed if its not been done in the last 60k or so.
Brilliant, I like a nice list to work to, thanks.

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Originally Posted by Tannaton View Post
- Be careful of R-Design/Sport models, the ride is firmer and the bigger wheels need more expensive tyres that don't last as long - SE LUX is best spec or executive if you come across one.
I'm not that interested in the Sport versions, I prefer comfort and reliability if possible. I always assume the Sport ones will have a harder ride, worse MPG and would have been driven hard.

I have not seen any Lux or Executive specs advertised yet, plenty of SE and one Premium.

Do you know where the Premium sits on the hierarchy?
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