B20 Amazon Twin Circuit - Front Brakes Binding

[Ron Kwas]

SS;

Maybe I missed it when I scanned the thread, but if you state "switched on the engine and the pedal then drops by 3/4 inch or so" that suggests a Vac Brk Booster, so if Master Cyl has been replaced and this is a tandem Vac Brk Booster, the clearances need to be checked so that there is free travel in the Actuation Rod, otherwise the Brake Sys could be supplying residual pressure. See also: https://www.sw-em.com/1800E_Brake_Lo..._Free-Play.htm

"deteriorating brake warning valve" I fail to see how this fairly static plumbing item can deteriorate...I further don't see how this can lead to the reported symptoms. When bleeding the Brakes however, it is highly advisable to remove the contact part from the Housing, to prevent its plastic pin from being sheared and damaged during bleeding process. See: https://www.sw-em.com/Two_Wrongs_Mak...g_Valve_Switch

Good Hunting!

[skysurfer]

Update - The brake binding issue has now been resolved. There was a problem with the Scandix Servo which has now been replaced with a new Servo. The braking has now significantly improved and the car freewheels easily. However, I still have a growling/squealing noise which relates to wheel rather than engine speed. The noise is more noticeable from cold and reduces after a few miles and then becomes intermittent. One of the wheel bearings has already been replaced and I'm going to do the other as my car has been used fore rallying in the past. I may have to put the car on a rolling road to try to get to the bottom of it as it's difficult to pinpoint from inside the car......